YAPiP - recreating pEEf's approach

I had been temporarily driving EV mode for the past 6 years but mostly blended mode for my daily commute. Never a problem with the booster converter being skimpy .
As a matter of fact, I never had a problem with HSD components whatsoever in 127,000 miles .
The Prius has NOT been designed as an EV means of transportation so, there will be limitations with stupid solutions.

 

I love it for what it provides, no 100% for it's range performance but that has a proven solution already.

 

.

 

Agree .. The UBW32 ( USB 32-Bit Whacker - PIC32MX795 Development Board - Dontronics ) is a good candidate as has the two CAN bus interface AND can also be the basis of a Colour ( color ) CANview so a couple of UBW32 would give us a basic board to be used for both purposes. The UBW32 being used with a mother board ( MaxiMite Colour Computer UBW32-MCC-PCB ) UBW32-MCC-PCB - Dontronics for the MM CAN view display and the second UBW32 equipped with two CANbus tranceivers for PHEVecu to control ICE eCM.

Have you progressed with using UBW32 at this stage?
The PHEV ecu would need the two CAN interfaces/instances enabled and programmed in C/assembler for speed required to intercept and transmit CANbus msgs in RT.

I understood that the standard DM and mini DM had version of PIC32 that was NOT equipped with the CANbus interfaces ?? Thus the latest UBW32 with the PIC32MX795F512L is the right choice ???

 

JDH
Do you think these products (one has CAN libary) could be used ?
Macchina | RechargeCar Inc.
New NXP Arm Cortex M3 LPC1768 Development Board 3 2" TFT LCD Module 64KB SRAM | eBay

 

I noticed that on the posted graphs earlier in the thread that the engine was running below the optimal rpm range of 1800-2200 rpm. According to the work of Hobbit (Sweet spot refinement) optimal usage of the gas engine is to draw exactly 15Kw of power from the engine whenever it is in use. Since you are already planning on intercepting and customizing CAN bus signals, your system could have a "long trip mode" optimized for when you know you will exceed the battery only range. In this mode you would be demanding exactly 15Kw of power from the engine whenever total power demand was in the 20-35Kw range, varying the output from the battery to provide the desired acceleration. Above that range you would return to normal operation, below it you would use all EV by sending the zero engine power request mentioned by pEEf. Using this method you could potentially get better mpg than the stock ECU when the plug in power has already been mostly expended. This method may also allow for better utilization of smaller battery packs.

I personally have a 47 mile commute with hills in a varied climate with cold winters and hot summers, so I wouldn't be able to avoid gas engine usage due to the need for heat and hill climbing. If a conversion method made more efficient use of the gas engine overall by running at more optimal rpm rather than just trying to minimize engine use, then it would have greater potential for wider use beyond the low speeds and short ranges provided by currently available batteries. The economics of smaller conversions might be substantially improved. Alas it will be about four years before I have any discretionary income with which to try such a solution myself even if it were ready made. By my math all current conversions on the market would be a net loss for me and I just can't afford that yet.

"if you prevent these CAN frames from going in, and instead send different frames with a power request of zero, then the Engine will not use fuel. So in hybrid mode I just send the frames as-is, but in EV mode I manipulate the frames to request no ICE power and keep the fuel cut. The HV ECU can then still spin the ICE as needed to lube and protect the transaxle and MG's, but use no fuel, this gives you the best PHEV use scenario, and you are still protecting your valuable hardware under the hood!"

Read more: http://priuschat.com/threads/update-and-technical-details-on-my-phev-project.86836/#ixzz2NAcemNzl​

 

John,

I have a 12kwh Enginer kit, but my OEM HV battery is dying (after 8 years) so it is time for recreating the “YAPiP - recreating pEEf's approach”

How is you project? Are you actually driving the car with the Enginer pack?
Is the 72x2 20 Ah RFE cell approach sufficient? The C rating of it is still lower than the Toyota NiMh pack.

My dilemma is: with you approach use only 9wh, or buy additional 24 cells to have 72*3 packs(or maybe only 70*3?)

I am just curious if you have any real life experience.


Zolk

 

one year later, it appears this stuff isn't as easy as it looks. peef must be a genius.

 

Hello!

I was thinking of this conversion again and want to ask, if anyone has listened to the canbus and triggered the time when the enginge starts, there must be a CAN message which tells the engine ECU to start / stop the motor I think.
Or do you think the ecu decides itself if it starts the motor or not?