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What to look out for when buying a higher mileage used prius?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by AleksanderTheGreat, Mar 25, 2014.

  1. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    The Aux battery is the 12V. If there is a problem with the blower motor, chances are the HV battery is running hotter than it should be running.
     
  2. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    My question is, why in the h$#l would the customer decline those repairs? Tell me if this makes sense "lets decline a relatively low repair cost and take a chance on overheating the HV battery???
     
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I think they already planned on selling/auctioning the car off
     
  4. AleksanderTheGreat

    AleksanderTheGreat New Member

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    a battery fan/blower is definitely something that would be easy for me to replace.

    also on 2/09/11 @ 131k miles it had
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    A0N WATER PUMP ~|~PERFORM RECALL A0N - HV WATERPUMP REPLACEMENT ~|~LIMITED SERVICE CAMPAIGN ~|~REPLACED INVERTER WATERPUMP PER LIMITED SERVICE CAMPAIGN OP CODE: 0615L1
    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Is this a new design?

    I'm going to test drive the white prius again Friday, I figure for 5700, that leaves about 800 for a replacement hv battery fund. The dash, if I could just find specifically what this elusive "fix" is, I assume somewhere, theres a solder point that needs to be addressed, but I can't seem to find anything specific scouring threads on here.

    12v aux batteries for a prius, anything special about them besides needing to be vented to outside like any other trunk mounted battery?
     
  5. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. The Prius 12V battery is AGM (absorbed glass mat), not the traditional flooded lead acid battery.
    2. I do not believe that the failure mode of the combination meter is known, and I suggest that you do not assume this would be easy to repair without actually replacing the unit.
    3. The inverter coolant pump was the subject of a recall. Supposedly the replacement pump is better than the original but IMO that is questionable.
     
  6. AleksanderTheGreat

    AleksanderTheGreat New Member

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  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes.

    I recommend exercising caution about buying any car with a salvage title because you generally will have no idea how well or how poorly the accident damage was repaired and the extent to which shortcuts were taken during the repair process. For example, if airbags were deployed, either replacing them with used parts (which is contrary to manufacturer repair policy) or not replacing them at all, instead using a resistor to make the SRS electronic control unit think a functional airbag is there.

    Further, the resale value of a salvaged vehicle is very questionable, so if you buy one, plan to keep it for a long time and be ready to deal with whatever problems it has, rather than think you can easily sell the car as a means of getting rid of the problems.

    If you are determined to buy a salvage vehicle, I strongly suggest you have it inspected by a mechanic who is trained in Toyota hybrids, to give you an independent assessment of the vehicle's condition and the quality of the accident repairs. Good luck.
     
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  8. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    Salvage cars are hard to sell. You should consider that fact. Not everyone will buy a car sold with a salvage title. That fact will come into play when it comes time for you to sell this car. If you buy it with the intention of driving it into the ground, then a salvage title really won't matter much to you.

    The car might be fine, or it might be a turd. A good body shop can do wonders with a wrecked car. But just because it looks pretty doesn't mean the car was repaired properly and in good working order.

    Warranty on a salvage car? I doubt it, but I could be wrong. It would not be the first time I have been wrong.;)
     
  9. AleksanderTheGreat

    AleksanderTheGreat New Member

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    Yeah I typically stay away from salvage cars, as they are next to impossible to sell for a sane amount, made that mistake once. I was just curious about how the warranty works in that scenario.

    Definitely not determined to buy salvage.
     
  10. usnavystgc

    usnavystgc Die Hard DIYer and Ebike enthusiast.

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    There really isn't much savings on that car either. I would stick with a clear title vehicle. There has to be a lot out there in SoCal huh?
     
  11. AleksanderTheGreat

    AleksanderTheGreat New Member

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    Again, thanks for the advice guys, I really appreciate it

    So I think I'm going to buy that original prius I mentioned in my first post.

    I test drove it again on Friday, the dash worked, the mfd was instantaneous in it's response as well, and I took the car home for a long test drive and solid inspection for 2 hours or so. I looked all over the underbody and there was no signs of damage or leaking from the engine, checked around the water pump, no leaks or signs of that I could see, and no signs of damage to the frame or underside of the car (the rear bumper drivers side does look like it was pressed in at one point, as it has the typical spider webbing of the paint, I would guess someone merged into the rear of the car in traffic, or the owner backed into something) its a clean title and only a 1 owner vehicle always in CA.

    5700 compared to what I've been browsing in the last week is a good deal. The average seems to be early 04-06 salvage title for ~6500 with similar or higher mileage.

    When driving around, the battery bar gauge was very steady, pretty much always stayed at I believe 4 or 5 blue bars, but I will have about ~1000 set aside for a new refurb battery so when the time comes it won't be a large hit.

    I also sold my car this weekend for almost the same price, so it's not much out of pocket extra for the prius.

    Immediate maintenance wise, my plan would be (185k on the car):

    solid engine scrubbing to clean it up
    spark plugs
    oil/filter change (probably rotella t6)
    transmission fluid (atf ws, correct? About how much is it at the dealer, or am I better off online, I'm looking around $40 shipped online currently)
    new air filter if its fairly dirty
    serpentine belt
    cabin filter
    clean the maf
    clean the throttle body
    take a look at the battery blower fan

    Also, does someone have quick run down or discussion link to the obd software? I'd like to get a good idea of what's going on with the car aside from the basic obd2 gauges.

    Has anyone tried this?

    PriiDash(TM) - Enhanced Instrument Panel and Data Logger for the Prius and more
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I would suggest Mini VCI. Watch out for a trojan on the software, though.
    Amazon.com: mini vci

    You need a Windows XP or Windows 7, 32 bit OS running on the laptop.

    Again, I suggest using 5W-30 viscosity engine oil unless the engine is worn to the extent that a higher viscosity grade is required.

    ATF WS will typically cost ~$9 per US quart at Toyota dealership parts counters.
     
  13. johnjohnchu

    johnjohnchu Active Member

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    I would suggest look inside the throttle body under the air filter. Make sure there is no engine oil accumulation inside the throttle body. Use a flashlight to inspect beyond the throttle plate. Make sure there is no bright light reflection from oil accumulation at the bottom of the throttle body. If there is oil, it may be an indication of internal oil leak, which is quite common in 2nd gen. Prius.
     
  14. AleksanderTheGreat

    AleksanderTheGreat New Member

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    Okay, will do.

    Where would the source of the leak be from?
     
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    It is relatively normal to find liquid hydrocarbon deposits on the bottom of the intake manifold, visible through the throttle body. It is a combination of engine oil coming from the PCV hoses as well as unburnt gasoline coming back up from the intake valves as the Atkinson cycle allows some portion of the compression cycle to happen while the intake valves remain open.

    So, don't worry about that.
     
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  16. AleksanderTheGreat

    AleksanderTheGreat New Member

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    Yeah, most cars have a pcv so some oil in the intake tract is fairly normal. I will take a more detailed look at the transmission and make sure the seals aren't leaking and check for play at the axles as well.

    Patrick, when you mentioned trojan in the software, did you mean the priidash link?

    Also is there any way to test the inverter?
     
  17. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Regarding the trojan, I was referring to the Mini VCI software.

    The best way to field-test an inverter is to install it in a Prius and see if it works.