What oil do you use in your Prius?

Patrick

Very good points. However, consider the effect of temperature on viscosity

Around 25 years ago I was one of the first to use a 0W-30 for winter operation. This was at the time known as Esso XD-3 Arctic. Everybody thought I was insane, the motor will explode, etc etc etc. The motors seemed to really like the 0W-30 in winter, if the UOA was any indication

A conventional 5W-30, per SAE J300, only has to be "good" to -30 C. This is the point the oil will have a MRV of 60,000 cP. Due to whining on the part of the oil companies, this value has changed over the years. At one time, the MRV cutoff was 30,000 cP, and a 5W-30 was only "good" to -25 C

At temps of -30 C and colder, especially -40 C, oil viscosity has a huge impact on if a motor will even start. There is a separate test called the Borderline Pumping Temperature, which is performed on a calibrated MRV device. A surprising number of conventional oils are "borderline" before the SAE rated cutoff

Most synthetic oils can perform at temps colder than the SAE requirement. For example, Mobil 1 0W-20 will test around 5,600 cP at -40, most conventional 5W-30 oils will test +70,000 cP at that temp

At the other extreme, say Death Valley, the HTHS (High Temp High Shear) is more appropriate. Mobil 1 0W-20 is rated around 2.6 mPa s at +150 C. Many engineers consider an oil to be borderline around 2.4-2.5 mPa s

Mobil 1 0W-30 has a HTHS of 2.99. Mobil 1 5W-30 is rated 3.09 mPa s, which is statistically the same as 2.99 for the test regime.

Most diesel rated SAE 30 oils are around 3.5-3.6 mPa s.

The 0W-40 that I use in my FJ has a rated MRV of 26,242 cP at -40, and a HTHS of 3.7 mPa s. Of the different oils I have tried, my FJ seems to prefer this viscosity

There are many factors that influence your choice of oil and viscosity. I completely disagree with the blanket suggestion that a 5W-30 is appropriate for all climates and conditions, as clearly a conventional 5W-30 is inappropriate at -40. It is also probably inappropriate at temps of +40 C and higher

I think we should also find it interesting - at the very least - that the same motor that here in North America "requires" a 5W-30 or 5W-20, in other markets suggest a wide range of viscosity, depending on ambient conditions.

jay

 

I suppose if they really wanted to be a hard-nice person about it, they could deny your warranty. Doesn't matter if you have it serviced by them, using crap generic bulk lube oil, they will find an excuse

Consider the hassle I went through when my used oil analysis uncovered a problem. Once Mobil got on my side and had me obtain a virgin sample of the dealer oil, Toyota very quickly STFU.

I suggest you buy the filter from a Toyota dealer. When you change the oil, write down the VIN, the date, miles/km. Same as the oil you buy, save the receipt and write down the information

Keep in mind that Toyota got burned by sludged up motors run on that wonderful minimum-spec API oil. If this was clearly the result of owner neglect, the owners would have received SFA.

One unintended side effect of the sludge settlement was Toyota universally lowering their oil change interval from 7,500 miles down to 5,000 miles. That is among the shortest oil change intervals on the planet of any regular production vehicle

 

Given the recent Jiffy Lube string, maybe Toyota is expecting that 50% of the time, the oil change scheduled and paid for by the US owner will not actually happen; and by requiring owners to change oil at 5K mile intervals, the average car might actually end up with 8-10K mile oil changes...

 

Hi Jay,

Considering the near-arctic survival conditions that you face in the winter, I think 0W-30 or 0W-20 is quite reasonable for you to use during that season!

It's unfortunate that those regions that allow a range of oil viscosities do not also show the maximum recommended temp for each.

Note that the Japanese table has an asterisk next to the 0W-20 viscosity. I wonder what the footnote says...

<maybe it says, "Silly North Americans, this oil viscosity is not intended for you!">

 

Free will kill you everytime. I can't imagine the crap dino vat oil there using for free.

 

I am having a hard time understanding the ACEA grades. On their website I came away with no real understanding of the differences, as most of the listed values seemed to be about the same for all grades. I just put in Pennzoil platinum 5w-30 in another car and it specs ACEA A/5-B/5-04, Honda HTO-06, and others. I did see the -04 means using the 2004 test sequence.

 

Sorry did NOT need to quote all that.

 

As usual Jayman is right on the mark. The sh*t in dealer vats I wouldn't put in my lawnmower but and I would bet my life on it that if I run Mobil 1 exclusively in a new to me Toyota motor for 200,000 miles and change oil every 4-5K there will never ever be a reason for the dealer to take the motor down...drop pans etc. Have owned alot of new cars (no GM or Ford or Chrysler) since the 80's and none of them ever saw a dealer rack. Its always a sensor or something non motor related. Toy's...Nissans etc just don't hardly ever need the motors cracked open. While back I had a 2001 Sentra with e Q18 motor in it and was at the dealer counter getting a filter and chatted up a tech who I know has been there a long time and asked him if he ever saw anything fail inside that motor and he said he's never been inside the Q18 motor. Thats a really common Sentra motor. Running top quality oil and top quality trans fluid and driving in a moderate fashion these cars last a long long time.

 

Keyword: Older designs. Is the prius engine an older design?

We know for a fact that the prius in Japan uses 0w20. The question that should be asked is why the USA prius "requires" 5w30. I have a feeling that its because 5w30 is available in most places, whereas 0w20 is not.

 

I just had my first oil change today, i used 5/20 Mobil 1 synthetic with an OEM oil filter.

the car runs great! at 2,300 miles, the original oil was not dirty, but i feel better just changing the oil at that time.

i'm in sunny so-cal and the temps are very comfortable here, 70 degrees today, sunny and nice.

i did notice better fuel economy, much smoother and runs great!

 

thanks jayman for good tips

i guess if i have any trust wordy shop (even non-toyota shop) change my oil i'd be fine, oil does not have to be changed by toyota dealer.

 

There can be overwhealming information for their test regimes. Remember that an oil can meet more than one grade, such as Mobil 1 0W-40 meeting ACEA A3, B3/B4

In general

ACEA A1 and B1 are lighter viscosity oils. The A1 covers oils with a HTHS of 2.6-3.5 mPa s. The B series is for light duty diesel motors, althouth this usually does NOT meet the VW specs, such as VW 506.xx

ACEA A5 and B5 are lighter viscosity oils. The A5/B5 covers oils with a HTHS of 2.9-3.5 mPa s. Note the HTHS has a higher cutoff point. This series specifically covers extended oil changes (Up to 24 months or 50,000 km in Europe) and high performance applications

ACEA A3/B3 are standard viscosity oils. A growing number of 5W-30 and 0W-30 (The Castrol Syntec 0W-30 we can buy here is rated this, made in Germany oil) oils meet or exceed this tough spec.

This oil usually tests above 3.5 mPa s, so it's quite a bit "heavier" than the standard 5W-30 or 0W-30 oils we can buy here. Example, Mobil 1 5W-30 tests at 2.99 mPa s, meets A1/A5. The A3/B3 specifically covers very severe service, high performance, and extended oil change intervals

ACEA A3/B4 is a specific varient for direct injection - the B4 rating - light duty vehicles. Again, this usually does NOT meet the picky VW oil spec, such as VW 505.xx or VW 506.xx, unless the oil has been tested to a VW spec

You may have noticed the C and E ratings

The C oils are primarily for light duty diesel motors fitted with DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) exhaust treatment. Due to higher operating temps, especially when the DPF is being "regenerated" the oils have to be blended differently. These oils are also speced for cars that we would consider California emissions, the phosphorous is lower to ensure long catalytic and O2 sensor life

C1: This is a low friction formula with a HTHS of 2.9 mPa s. It's a standard grade, usually a maximum 12 month or 16,000 km oil interval

C2: This is a bit heavier than the C1 oils, otherwise the same

C3: This oil has a HTHS of 3.2-3.5 mPa s. Otherwise the same as C2

C4: This oil has a HTHS greater than 3.5 mPa s.

The E oils are for heavy duty diesel engines, such as those from MAN, Mercedes, Volvo, Iveco, etc.

E2: The standard heavy duty diesel oil for normal drain intervals, and no emissions control

E4: This oil is designed for "significantly" extended oil change intervals, up to 120,000 km, however it is not intended for emission controlled diesel motors

E6: This oil is designed for "significantly" extended oil change intervals, and is specifically intended for DPF and EGR emission controlled heavy duty diesel engines

E7: This is an extremely heavy duty oil but is not intended for emission controlled motors, as the DPF catalytic will not last long

Note that specific manufacturers have their own requirements. I've already mentioned VW. Cummins also has a unique requirement to protect the unit injectors on their HD motors, as the unit injector is operated by a lobe on the camshaft. There is high load and the potential for scuffing

 

Considering how crappy my dealer bulk oil tested out, a 3,000 mile interval would be far more appropriate

 

I use either Mobil 1 0/20W or Castrol- same W. I use a Fram- # PH-4967 & have always changed the oil @ 25,000 miles, oil filter @ 5,000 miles with no problems. Just save all receipts in case you have to show the dlr. in case of a mechanical problem relating to the engine.

 

I changed the dealer oil at 3200 miles. I refilled it with Mobil 1 5w-30 and will change at 5,000 mile intervals

 

I use Amsoil, signature synthetic

https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx

Signature, Full synthetic.
oil change every 35,000 miles or one year and filter change every 17,500 miles or six months!

Third year doing this with over 140,000 miles. Getting about 42 MPG lifetime. (Absolutely no hypermiling, just normal, to slightly faster than normal driving, with a significant amount, about 75% of the driving, at freeway speeds)

 

Olive oil, extra virgin please.....sorry, just couldn't help myself, this question just seems way too anal to me, especially considering a form of it comes up every week or so.

 

If it was me I would use 5w30 and change the oil every 5000 miles.