What else to do during EGR cleaning?

Have you used a pressure washer yet?

That's what I use and it does a great job getting the deposits out.

And this can be done in 15 minutes .

If in a time crunch, use this as an option.

 

I usually just do the cooler with the pressure washer.

But I'm not going for "eat or drink out of the parts" clean. Just clean enough as I know I'll be back doing the job again and it'll just get deposits again.

1700 psi is what the pressure washer I have puts out. I secure the cooler with something like a metal lawn chair as 1700 psi will make a mark if it impacts a body part.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

The interior of the the intake manifold, in particular the large entrance passage for EGR, seemed kinda rough and unfinished, on mine.

Using oxi, separate the valve, just work on just the cooler. Use some kinda cork on one end. Mix the oxi as hot (say nothing but hot tap water, but not boiling from the kettle) and concentrated as possible, and let it sit in there about an hour. Then repeat. Mine, not bad to start with, took 5~6 cleanings thus to come clean. How clogged is it; can water flow through?

 

SB6, from what I have seen and read in Priuschat, it takes several soaks and power washes to get out the gunk. Many even thought it was clean and decided on one last rinse and finding more brown and black gunk coming out.

 

Nope.

The throttle body line has coolant, where the one you have circled handles vacuum.

Watch the Nutz about bolts videos and you'll see the routing pattern.

 

I have a complete JDM motor to toy with before it is installed in my car. I went to remove the egr cooler for cleaning and discovered exactly what a total PITA this nut/stud combo represents. I can not understand why this cooler is fastened to the engine so tightly with so many different bolt and nuts. Like insanely difficult to remove. I am always one to not question what the engineers do with the cars, but this amount of bolt overkill is absolutely baffling. My JDM motor is not getting those studs and bolts. I am not convinced that it will make any difference. Not weight bearing, no stress, no reason that makes any sense.

 

I leave the stud on there for alignment purposes.

It helps when the cooler is in the engine bay and you have to balance putting the rear gasket on.

But you seem like the type that once your kind is made up, nothing we say will change it. So good luck and keep us posted.

 

If the lower stud is off, can the two rear studs be installed on the cooler/valve assembly, and the rear gasket dropped onto the studs, before placing it back on the exhaust manifold connecting flange? It seems like having that lower stud off might allow that.

You could also put a couple of scraps of masking tape on the gasket , temporarily securing it during the install. I believe there's two projecting corners on the rear flange of cooler that stick out far enough that they're beyond the exhaust manifold flange, allows you to pull the tape off after.

 

Once the OCC was put on mine, it hasn't knocked since after the EGR circuit cleanse and intake manifold cleaning. Like yours, mine has no oil consumption nor coolant going down at all. I think youre just a catch can away from nirvana. Sent an engine oil sample of mine to blackstone and came back with no traces of water nor coolant in the engine oil after 11,000 miles so the catch can continues to pay off for sure. That's something you definitely want to get to soon as you can.

 

It can also leave more than a mark: public service announcement, if you've felt a bite from a high-pressure fluid, do not delay medical attention.

 

You definitely want to take your time on the OCC install, there are couple of options to go with an OCC install. I bought fuel line from an auto part store, avoid using the braided hose that comes with most catch can as they will flatten up as pressure leaves, or the hose collapses. There are guides here on PC that has adapter couplers that connects to the "elbow" hose on both ends that 9is splice-able with couplers to run the fuel lines to the catch can. It doesn't have to be right after an EGR cleaning, a PC member that goes by the alias of RMB installed a catch can without cleaning the EGR but his car was low in miles. But it's preferred to installed the OCC right after EGR circuit cleanse & cleaning of the intake manifold.

 

A simple hose method is to cut orig hose at middle, push on two 3/8" barb splice conectors, then run 3/8" fuel line to the Can.

You can purchase replacement OEM PCV hose from dealership for about $10, if you ever want to restore to stock.

I've found hose clamps are overkill with barb connectors; don't bother with them anymore.