What did you do to your Prime today?

She says I am picky about everything except food...

 

She says I install premium parts on my car(s) but will succumb to purchasing (and eating) economy-grade food.

 

As it should be.

 

These are the LED I've installed interior. They are dimmable, non-polar. They are still working fine after 1.5 year of use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LP4RWYC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0186P1MUW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

I saw those and wondered how good they are. Thanks!

Edit to add. For that price, I'll bite. Just ordered the wedge ones.

 

Which one is the replacement for the cargo lamp in PRIME? Or are they for different lamps?

 

This one I think fits the cargo lamp and everything else except the back seat dome light.

The other one is for the back seat dome.

 

Thanks. Do you know if there are any other lamps in PRIME that will accept this bulb beside the cargo lamp? While it's not very expensive as bulk buy, if no other lamps can take it, I really do not need 10 bulbs. Maybe even cheaper if I buy just one.

 

These can be used for the cargo light, front side door pedal light and the 2 interior doom light. Keep the extra and use them in your next car. It worth the money, a lot brighter. Once installed, you will never switch back. Don't forget to keep the old bulbs, when you sell your Prime, you can put them back

 

Here ya go, Ray. Fair warning. The soldering was challenging. And I used the wires I had on hand so it's not very pretty until it's all tucked away. But it works great and once I dress it off a little better, it should look great, too. Plus -- no holes made.

I turned off the dome lights up front to keep the 12V from draining. Since I didn't cut into any of the car's wiring, there was no need to pull any fuses.

First, I used the same kind of lights I used on the PiP. After browsing what was locally available that I could actually see, as opposed to buying on line & hoping for the best, they were the most bang for the buck. Just held on with 3M tape.




Here's why the soldering was so challenging. Not much distance to the plastic. And I did scorch it a little, using a small soldering iron.




The connection to the small hole was pretty easy since it was a mechanically good spot, even though it was small. The other one wanted to act like a heat sink, so it was very hard to get a good solder flow with that tiny soldering iron. I couldn't use the big soldering gun because it wouldn't fit and would have melted the whole plastic housing.




Here it is assembled. As I said, I used what was on hand. I taped up those connectors after the picture.




The buttons for the tonneau cover just pull off. Then I removed the bolts behind them which allowed me to pull out the plastic panel and fish the wires from the light fixture hole up to the gasket area where I wanted to place the light. Then I dropped the wire to the other side down behind the side panel to the battery fan area. I didn't know if there was any Armor-all or such stuff on the plastic, so I cleaned the area where the new lights would go with alcohol to make sure the tape stuck well.



There is already a wire bundle across the area between the battery and the back bumper. Easy to tie my wire to. That's one of the tonneau cover cord buttons laying on the battery to the right of the side cuts. You can see the little prongs that hold it in. No twisting, no screws, just pop it out.



On the left side, I needed a pull wire since it was too far to push the light wire up from the battery fan area. Again, just pull out the plastic panel a little bit.



And here's the right side all lit up.




And the left side.




One last picture, after dark, to show the full effect.

 

Good job! Thanks for the write-up. Although, I don't think I will be able to DIY.

 

LOL!! I just noticed that I didn't put the two light strips in the same place. Oh well.

 

I like that light setup, but why did you decide to solder into the plastic area of the switch? Was the switch itself not a suitable place to tap in?

 

The green wire is directly soldered to the back of the switch which is integral to the housing. The red one is on the switched leg between the switch and the lamp socket. The little rocker switch is cradled in the lens and has a brass contact that bridges the little gap in the circuit in the gray housing. I didn't take a picture of the rocker itself, but this highlights the gap it closes. There is no place else to connect a switched leg since no switched wires leave the housing and I want the new lights to operate exactly like the old one. This way, the new lights turn off and on with the rocker switch and the hatch switch. No danger of accidentally leaving them on.

 

Are their instructions, specifically the pictures, better now? When I got them for my '04 it took some guessing to figure out how to get the clips up inside the weatherstripping. Once installed they were good.

 

What drove you to window shades? Keeping windows cracked open when parked without rain getting in?