What did you do to ur Gen III Prius today????

Did you plastidip the Prius badge? And where did you get the Toyota and hybrid emblems? Thanks

 

I really like how these rims look on the 3rd Gen's. I'm also running 5mm spacers in the back.

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haha wow! How about that for coincidence. Maybe this will become a more common setup if people can get their hands on a set. My hardest thing was actually finding a set locally that I could go pick up. 5mm works nice! Agreed.

hey man, they are all Hyperdip Gloss black. I think the people at plastidip came out with the product this March maybe? Could’ve been May I don’t really remember. It’s new so it’s not perfect, it’s harder to work with than the original plastidip, but it looks a lot better. All the badges are originals just painted with the gloss black Hyperdip.

 

Yesterday I did intake manifold, EGR pipe cleaning and changed PCV valve.
In fact my brother in law did the work, I was the supervisor.

It wasn't clogged too bad but far from clean.
Thanks Mendel for that throttle body tip, indeed it isn't necessary to clamp those coolant lines, you have plenty of space to move it for removing intake manifold.
Intake manifold has one or two tablespoons of oil where the throttle body connect.

EGR pipe has some stuff build up.

Intake manifold wasn't too clogged.

Engine admission ports have some carbon build up too.


I've cleaned intake manifold and EGR pipe with brushes and brake cleaner as good as I could.
For engine ports I've rubbed by hand with a rag paying attention for injectors.
Also cleaned that intake manifold sensor with isopropyl alcohol, it was soaked in oil.
All that stuff I've cleaned was dry, just carbon build up. Wasn't oily/greasy.

PCV valve was dirty with oil but when I shake it I heard a movement inside so I guess it was fine. I've changed it anyway.


Put all back, first engine start and I almost fainted. For 2-3 seconds engine was rattling and running rough. No warning lights on dashboard though.
After 3 seconds engine was smooth like I know.
Now my wife is out for test driving it so I hope that all is good.

Next thing will be EGR cooler and valve and spark plugs if I remove wiper assembly.

Thanks PC for all advices.

 

You both got a lot accomplished!
Just remember, the cooler is the most important part to clean, next is the manifold.
It will take a long time before that pipeis clogged completely, if ever. The cooler will get blocked
and not gases will flow through the pipe.

The pcv valve is inexpensive and best to always change as you did. Just because it rattles,
doesn't mean it is functioning correctly.

Good Job!

 

Thanks.

It wasn't too hard, it tooks about 3 hours including beer, smoking and small talks with my brother in law.

Now I have almost 30 miles after cleaning and everything looks fine.
In fact I don't know if it's a placebo effect or not but the car looks a little bit more snappy when accelerating and engine sounds more smooth.
But it can be my imagination though even if my wife (she's the driver) told me the same.

Anyway, next will be EGR cooler and valve for sure. But I need at least one full day to do it properly.

 

Coolant tip #2 (if you don’t recall): drain 2 quarts/liters (into clean container) before disconnecting EGR cooler coolant hoses. Then you won’t spill; coolant level in the system is below the cooler. Do be careful when lifting cooler out: there is a little coolant trapped at lower/back corner.

Oh, and remember to catch the back gasket when lifting the cooler off manifold; it has no retaining clips.

Pour the coolant back into reservoir when done, with the coolant bleed bolt* open so air can vent. Close bleed bolt when coolant starts coming out (near end of refill process, if it does).

* bleed bolt exists on 2010~2011 model years only, AFAIK.

 

What are your EGR flow readings since doing the work you've done?

Numbers were recently reported by adonturia on a 2010 with 167,000 where there was a definite improvement from cleaning the manifold passages, but the overall flow numbers are holding in a range that looks more like recently cleaned systems. in a case like that, delving into the cooler might feel less urgent than if the numbers were lower.

 

I took one measurement today on the road. I'm back to 18.xx kPa from 17.xx (If you recall I've had a couple of days in 13.xx range but then back to 17.xx for whatever reason).
But I'll monitor this next days.

* Mendel, I have that bleeding valve on my Prius.

 

67 mpg from the last 5,000 miles driven. All downhill driving.

 

In Escherland, lol.

 

I had a similar heart attack moment, or moments, after I did my intake cleaning last weekend. Though my rough idling and shaking was accompanied by light tapping, progressing to knocking sounds. It took a good minute or two to subside, but it felt like forever! I suspect the knocking was from water left in the intake manifold after cleaning/flushing and not giving it enough time to dry out.

 

Got around to cleaning the EGR cooler and goofed big time.

At 123k miles there wasn't a lot of gunk surprisingly. Got it all put back together and went for a short test drive, engine over heating slightly at 205F so I pull into Walmart and grab some pink peak coolant. Top it off and head home, instant over heating again. I manage to use EV as much as possible and don't rev at all to stay under 210F this round trip is less than 5 miles.

At this point I can't understand where the coolant is going do I check all my hoses because that's all it can be... Sure enough... My stupid brain left the hose from the water pump to the EGR cooler off...

I hooked everything up triple checked and added coolant, ran in maintenance mode till the coolant fans came on twice. Level is set and not going down anymore... Hopefully didn't do any permanent damage.

Doubly since I just dropped $43USD on long life coolant from the dealer and ended up filling my engine back up with Peak Pink since the dealer is closed... I've just resigned my self to doing and engine coolant change in 30K miles instead of 100K and do long life next fill up...

Everything seems okay for now.

 

Wow, something I'll have to remember when I get to mine.

I'll probably forget to reconnect something. Planning on draining the engine coolant, swapping in precleaned spare EGR cooler and EGR valve, change water pump and thermostat, and finally, change spark plugs.

Wish me luck.

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You'll do great, I rushed at the end and paid the price by having to double back to fix it. Just take your time and it'll be fine. Also am old timer taught me to take pictures of everything when I was starting out so I had reference material. I always recommend that approach when working on a new car.

 

Added 4 inch fender flares on my prius for wide body reasons lol

 

Have you thought about popping out the center cap and changing it to have gear positions instead of on/off and hot/cold?
I'd bet there's a lot of interesting graphics you could throw in there.

 

Where did you get these? Link?

 

Changed spark plugs with Bosch double iridium spark plugs.

Was also going to swap out the EGR cooler and EGR valve with pre cleaned spares but decided not to do it, too late a start today. Didn't want to rush getting things off and put back together.

Decided to mesh the opening to the cabin since I had the windshield cowling off already. Used 1/4 inch hardware cloth and self tapping screws. Still not the easiest job.

Already have had rodent droppings and urine smell on the cabin air filter and a rat chewed up the windshield washer fluid resorvoir cap once before.

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Damn rodents.

Added some cheap LED light bulbs to interior and same for high beam low beam. They work okay.

Just ordered an OCC from ebay and I'm going to get pads, rotors, and brake fluid within the next couple months. At my milage I can't tell if the original owner did brakes but I can be pretty sure they didn't do brake fluid as most don't seem to.