What brand brake pads are better than OEM?

The oil pan drain bolt is at the back edge of oil pan, at least on my 2010. Draining the oil with the car raised just at the front increases drain efficacy as far as I know.

You can open the small flap in underpanel, local to the oil pan and oil filter area, with the jack in place. Still: you don’t want to rely on a floor jack only, for support; safe practice is to place safety stands and settle the car onto them. Then the jack is redundant, really just in the way. Also, my pref is to remove the full underpanel, makes access easier, allows you to check for leaks and so on, and avoids wear and tear on that (brittle) flap. Too, taking the full panel off allows you to assess/clean fasteners, replace if needed.

 

Maybe adding credence to that: I've got a fairly high lifting floor jack, and I recently cobbled some spacers to put in the cradle, and low-rise ramps to allow it all to fit under the front jacking point. Long-story-short: I'm raising the front even higher now. And I've noticed, after a thorough drain, and putting in a carefully measured 4.2 liters (spec qty), if I leave it a few days, then check the oil on the dipstick, it's about 3/16"~1/4" below the top mark. Which translates to almost a cup.

I suspect if I had the car raised and level, then drained-and-filled, it'd be on the top mark. Someone who had the oil pan off noted the drain bolt is not at the oil pan's extreme low point; there's a lower well of residual oil that doesn't drain, in particular with a level car, less though as the front is raised.

 

If you right front wheel on ramp, or jack it up, it will tilt toward the drain plug.
You'll be able to get most of the oil out. And easily reach the oil filter.
You'll NEVER get ALL the oil out. There is NO need to do that.

And as Mendel said, 4.2 gallons and you're set. With a new filter of course.

 

It doesn't hurt to get as much out as possible; why not.

Seeing the dipstick 1/4" low with (measured) 4.2 liters, I think I'm getting close. The dipstick pips are 1.5 inches apart, and the diff is said to be 1.5 quarts, a handy coincidence: 1/4" represents about a cup, say 250 cc. With my fairly extreme raise-and-drain method, it looks like it would take around 4.4~4.5 liters to be at the top mark, and dry capacity is spec'd in Repair Manual as 4.7 liters:

 

Like a drop of Arsenic in the ocean.
Billions of oils changes have been done this way, and will continue.
It's a simple oil change, don't make a mountain out of a molehill.

 

Yeah what was I thinking…

 

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