What are you paying for electricity (price per kWh)?

$0.085 per K/W all taxes included converted in US Dollars

 

Sub-panels are very effective. When we bought our 1890-vintage house, it has a new entrance panel with a sub panel next to it. The previous owner had added a number of new circuits for outlets and a small electric baseboard heater in the attic bedroom which I now use as an office. There also were various circuits for the laundry room and for some new 120-volt outlets located in the bedrooms presumably for window air-conditioners.

When we completely renovated our kitchen, we added a sub-panel with separate circuits for outlets, dishwasher, fridge, garbage disposal, overhead lighting, counter outlets, and utility outlets. By locating this panel in on the opposite side of the basement to reduce the length of the many runs to the kitchen.

Then, when we later built our garage, we added another small sub-panel in the garage for the EVSE, door openers, convenience outlets, and exterior lighting.



We do not have central air-conditioning and, when and if added, the main panel will have to be redone with for a larger service entrance.

However, the sub-panels are reasonably logical and all the breakers are neatly labeled. The runs between the main panel and the sub-panels are all in conduit.

Because of load diversity, we have never tripped a circuit breaker on the many branch circuits (none are heavily loaded), tripped the breakers serving the sub-panels, or tripped the main service entrance breaker. Fortunately, we use natural gas for heating, cooking, domestic hot water, and our clothes dryer.

Other than the 240-volt circuits between the main panel and the sub-panels, the only 240-volt branch circuits are for the electric baseboard heater in the attic, for the EVSE in the garage, and for a European outlet in the kitchen for the Swiss raclette machine which my wife acquired while her family was living in Switzerland.

Please pardon this long story to make my point that "sub-panels are your friends" and much better than jamming your main panel full of tandem breakers.

 

Using the same parameters, I’m currently paying 0.057$/kWh for first 40, then 0.080$/kWh.

 

in Rhode Island with all charges from "national grid" local electric company the cost Is $.239 kW which is an increase of about $.03 from the summer. Side bar: has anyone used the https://thinkev.com/charging-calculator/ to estimate the cost to charge based on your exact vehicle battery size.
would love to learn what others are getting. I have PHEV2020 it appears I am paying $2.10 to charge 0-95% to obtain ~ 31 miles.

 

No, you are not paying $2.10 for your full charge. PP only takes 6.5-6.7kWh for a full charge using L1 EVSE, or 6.1-6.3kWh with L2 EVSE. At your electricity rate of $.239/kWh, your full charge cost is only ~$1.55 (0.239x6.5=1.5535).

BTW, our electricity supply portion of the rate went up 89% this year. I am currently paying $0.25/kWh which means for a full charge the cost is $1.625 for ~25miles. Compare this to the current $4.25/gal gas at ~50mpg, the cost is $2.125 for the same distance, making EV mode much cheaper for the first time in the last 5 years I have owned a PP.

 

Gas is up Way faster than electrons. Consider these rough equivalent comparisons of energy;

.

 

About 14.6 cents per kw/hr.

 

That's a nice looking installation. Mine is stuffed into a narrow place between a cupboard and a set of shelves, so everything is pretty crowded since our garage is so small and I have so many tools.

 

9c/kW at night w TECO variable rate plan. 1.5c is a pipe dream. How do u guys in MN get that?

 

I installed solar. Divided the cost of the solar(minus rebates) + expected replacement of inverters by the expected production. Total was 1.4c/kWh, rounded up to 1.5.

 

32 cents

 

what brand of inverter do you have? We have the enphase micro inverter installed that have 25yrs warranty. Thats pretty much the same lifespan of the panels.

 

Same here. The warranty on my inverters and panels will expire when I'm 93 years old.

 

SolarEdge. From other similar systems in the area, we expect 30-35 years out of the panels.
Although the production will gradually fall off.

 

Something I'm curious about. Going on the assumption most people have rooftop solar panels, and seeing here expected life is 20-35 years, do most people also get their roof shingles replaced with 30 year Architectural shingles as part of the package?

 

When we moved in, my wife, who is an architect, said we had 5 years on the roof shingles. They lasted 6. So my roof was only 5 years old when I added solar panels. They were GAF energy reflecting shingles and I hope to get 15 more years from them. That far exceeds my predicted lifetime.

My daughter is considering solar, but for her, it starts with removal of a chimney and new roof.

 

... or when they go bankrupt?

My panel maker went bankrupt several years ago. Various news items indicate that there is an extended warranty program held by a 3rd party, but the included links are now dead.

I went for standing seam metal roofing, which should go for 50 years.

 

We did. Our shingles looked like they had several years left, but but I'm sure replacing them before installing the panels was cheaper than replacing them later and then re-installing the panels. Plus, since I put on the new shingles as part of the solar project, the cost of the shingles was included in the tax credit.

 

We built new with a standing seem steel roof. 75-100 year lifespan.
If installing solar on an existing house, I would recommend considering the age and condition of the roof.