Wax your Prii

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(oly_57mpg\";p=\"97337)</div>

Back in my highschool days (1975), I used to wax my Road Runner every week. The thing looked just as good the day I sold it 4 years later as it did when it was in the showroom.

 

I've been very happy using Blackfire products. Might cost a little more and has to be ordered from CMA, but it lasts a long time and really makes my millenium silver Prius look like new even after 19 months and 32,000 miles.

For all you could possibly want to know about taking care of your car's finish, visit autopia.org.

 

I use Nu-Finish, a polymer type product that goes on easy and removes without a lot of work. I don't know if it the best or worst, but it's easy, so I'll bother to use it. The best wax, if unused, doesn't protect anything!

I use it not for looks, but to keep dirt and bird droppings, etc., from digging into the paint. With a good wax, the junk comes off with water or minimal soap. If it doesn't bead, I figure it's letting the crud "grip" the paint, too, so it's time to rewax.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(richard schumacher\";p=\"97336)</div>

Polish removes scratches and embedded stuff by removing an outer layer of paint. Wax is a protective coating. I'd never polish a car unless it's badly scratched.[/b][/quote]

Your information is a decade or two out of date.

And if you want a showcar finish, 99% of cars out there have swirl marks to some degree that need polishing to remove.

The word "polish" is (incorrectly) used to describe three different kinds of products: compounds, polishes (which may have abrasives or chemical cleaners or neither), and glazes. The explanation here from Classic Motoring Accessories pretty much agress with what I understand to be industry accepted conventions.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ScottY\";p=\"97211)</div>

The clay bar is to remove contaminants from the paint that you can't get out by polishing, such as industrial pollution fallout, paint overspray, brake dust, and metal filings from railroad track dust. These stick in your paint and need to be pulled out with the clay bar. Polishing would only make the paint around these tiny specks shiny, and make the contaminants more noticeable. So if you do the "plastic bag" check after washing but before polishing to see if you need to clay your car first (you probably do, if you've never clayed it before).

The "plastic bag" check is putting your fingers inside a plastic sandwich bag, and running your hand over the paint. It should feel like glass. If it doesn't, and it feels gritty, you need to clay before you polish.

Claying a car doesn't take much time if you go crazy with the lubricant like I do.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rcroft\";p=\"97244)</div>

You're so wrong that I think you're trolling rather than honestly expressing your opinion.

IMHO, if you think your wife's car is still "shiny", you don't know what "shiny" is.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mark_hamrick\";p=\"97263)</div>

I think Klasse is a reasonable product to use on a light color. I've used Klasse AIO and SG on my Driftwood Pearl Prius with good results. But on a dark color or red, Zaino is the way to go, IMHO.

 

You cannot "polish" a modern cars paint job.
One, there is a clear coat which can actually haze if polished and two, modern cars don't have enough paint thickness to polish. Polish is for those bad A** 24 coat show car paint jobs.

I used to use this stuff call "Insulator wax" it is used by high tension workers to wax the ceramic isolators on power lines. (they just coat the things and leave it on)
it has some type of property that resists electron jump.

What I noticed was it goes on like hot butter, actually it has a tapioca pudding feel, absolutely does not leave residue when removed, comes off just as effortlessly as it went on, on the paint almost "feels" harder afterward. I haven't been able to find it for several years though. When I did get it you had to buy a box of 12 for $75, it really wasn't for home use.

The good thing, 12 bottles lasted me and my dad, he has an A** load of cars and is always waxing them, about 5 years.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Devil's Advocate\";p=\"97415)</div>

http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/collinit.htm

BAM!

 

OK, I'm convinced. I'm going to try Zaino next time I wax my 05 Black. I hope it's good stuff.

 

kazu88,

I bought the publication that you mention. That's where I was getting my facts from. They also shoot down the myth that the most expensive waxes are the best ones. The publication is dated tho, at this point.

Richard,

Yahoo for '75 Pintos! I loved mine. A friend had on his hatch, a big white placard usually seen on blasting trucks that said "Explosives."

u4iia,

I'm glad that you had good luck with the Meguiar's NXT product. I tried it and it only lasted 3 weeks. That was after spending the better part of the day, cleaning and polishing before applying it. So, it was a real waste...

galaxee,

Just read up on how to use the product before you try it. It's not like regular wax...

Cheers,

 

Don't know about micro - fiber towels, but know that 100% cotton towels & Zaino both work.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(galaxee\";p=\"97424)</div>

If it does for your black Prius what it did for my wife's black Prius, you won't be disappointed.

 

I checked some web sites for NuFinish and Zaino. It seems to matter whether you have a clear coat on your car. I'm so new to having a new car, I have to ask a dumb question. Does my Prius have a clear coat? Can't find it in the docs that came with the car.

Also: Got a small stone chip on Cherry's front end. Is there a good DIY (who is a car care moron) to fix this or should I just take it to a body shop?

 

scosgrove,

Welcome!

Yes, your car has a clearcoat.

As for the paint chip, you can get paint in the form of a pen which allows for more control than a brush, here:

http://www.autovisuals.com/

And, for taking care of the chip. Here's some detailed steps to make the repair the best it can possibly be:

http://www.carcareonline.com/viewarticle.aspx?art=8

Cheers,

 

I waxed mine once when it was a day old. Since then I've only washed it using Mr. Clean autodry. After 14 months it still feels like glass and has no swirls. Maybe I'm just lucky.

 

I'd like to contribute a stupid question.

I keep my car in the garage. In Southern California. I don't expect rain until.....October/November.

Does that mean I'll be washing and waxing less frequently?

 

I re-zaino mine about every 8 mos.........wash frequency depends on color imo.....Peeps with darker colors...well....you know what you signed up for!



Just few additional tips for a good wash/wax......

1. Water.......never let is "set-up" on the paint (especially if you have hard water). Always wipe it off. Hard water will leave spots that can be very hard to remove. Also never attempt to wipe dirt off a "dry" car.

2. Segragate your rags for washing / drying your rims. Brake dust on your rims is metallic and if you introduce this to your wash water or drying towels and then use it on your cars painted surface......swirl/scratch city.

3. Drying......many towels use polyester (plastic) stitching around the edges which can scratch and leave swirl marks. Look for 100% cotton towels. I personally use a rubber type chamois called the "Absorber" for drying. Some Pros use Leaf Blowers to dry with..(but you might get some weird Looks from the neighbors)

Never never re-use a towel or rag that you've dropped on the ground.

Most good Zaino Dealers also sell custom towels that have the edges removed and then re-stitched with 100% cotton thread!

Happy Summer!

 

Wax your new Prius, oh yeah, I think so. The paint, although clear coat, is still paint and can use a little bit of help to protect against oxidation and UV attack.

I only wax my car about twoce a year because the of the premium products I select and the nice weather in my part of California. YMMV

The rest of this post is for first time car owners (there are quite a few out there) and those that would like to know how I used to get my ex-show car and Prius looking so good. The techniques and products I have used for many, many years (except for The Absorber which is relatively new) and I have always has excellent results.

I am surprised that in a group as large as ours that now one has mentioned Malm's wax yet. This is an excellent, top of the line carnuba wax that I have successfully used for over 15 years now.

First you need to decide if you want to go with a synthetic product or a premium carnuba wax. I personally do not use synthetics any more because of problems in getting the paint repaired (yes, I know that there are painters now that say they don't have problems removing various synthetics, I just haven't met any of them yet )

Next, you want to wash the car extremely well. The better the wash, the better it looks.

Get the car out of the sun and make sure that the sheetmetal is cool before you begin. Now soap the car with stream of water, you want the water on there so it has time to soak into the dirt so it'll come off a bit easier with out scratches. Wash out the wheel wells and undercarraige with a strong stream of water to get all the dirt off as well as you can, then rinse the whole car again, just to be sure dirt didn't land on it.

Now start with the car soap and a brush. I use a boar hair brush (no scratching in 15 years). See Griot's Garage link below for a picture of the one I bought from them. As for soap, use a mild product designed for automotive use. I like the one made by Malm's (one stop shopping, it takes very little to suds up and it rinses extremely well). Start at the top, and work you way down. Swish the brush in the bucket often, shale the brush in there (releases dirt) but don't let the brush sit in the bottom of the bucket (where their might be unsuspended dirt).

Use your hose and rinse the car well.

Dry the car with a good product so you don't get scratches, that's another arguable topic so I'll just say that the classic way is to use 100% terry cloth (cotton loop) towels. Watch out for the tags which can scratch the finish (just cut them completely off). A real leather chamois is OK, but they can be a bit of a pain to maintain (I gave all mine away). The alternative is to use a new style synthetic cloth like The Absorber. These things are awesome, they absorb a lot of water and you just roll them up and put them back into their tube when you are done. You don't hang them to dry, they won't rot and don;t seem to wear out. It does take a little getting used to but once you get the hang of it, its dries the car very quickly. There is also a synthetic squeegee that is gaining popularity but I haven't tested it yet.

It the paint has been compromised then you can use a clay bar (Malm's was the first company to sell them to the public, as far as I know). This is not likely to be necessary (the paint should be glass smooth on all Prii since they are so new, but in case you have a first gen or save this post for the future), but if you need to do it, do it now. Spray a little lubricant (I use Neetoo from Malm's) on the paint and rub a small piece of clay on it until the paint is smooth. Keep folding the clay into itself often so the particles do not stay close to the paint.

Now you can wax the car. Just follow Malm's instructions (damp sponge, just a little liquid wax, wipe off and you are done).

At this point, I switch to another company's products to finish the car off. I like to use Stoner Solutions Invisible glass for the windows, More Shine Less Time for the tires and the rest f the products for the black air deflector under the back of the Prius and for all the interior plastic bits. Stoner sells a kit with an assortment of their products that is a great way to get a start with their products (its a favorite at my PC local club at the meets). This stuff is generations ahead of ArmorAll (Armorall contains certain petroleum distillates that remove all the goodness from your tires and interior, thus drying them out and you have to use more of their product to keep them looking nice. Stoner was the first company I found to not reply on that nonsense to get their customers back,. Their stuff just works.

Above all, have fun, this is certainly a labor of love for me as the Prius really makes me feel good every time I drive it. I hope it does the same for you.


My car wash/wax experience, in case it makes a difference to you:

- 1976 Lotus Eclat, triple black, used Malm's product on it exclusively. The car always looks new and won best of show at a West Coast club car show.
- Used this same regime on all my other exotic cars successfully for almost 20 years now (none of the others are black).
- Parents retired from the automotive industry where I grew up. I used to detail high end cars since I was a kid all the way through putting myself through college. Ok, so I did a lot of new American cars too, but I tell you they are just as finicky as the lawyers, judges and police officers were about their "special" cars.


I have always gotten comments on how good my car looks at the local PC club meets, so I must be doing something right.

Vendors in order of preference (mine)

Malm's (Wax, soap, clay, everything else they have would be first choice)
http://www.malms.com/

Stoner Solutions (cleaning and shining sprays, best window cleaner, etc.)
http://www.moreshine.com/

The Absorber (synthetic drying towel, can sometimes be found locally)
http://www.theabsorber.com/home.html

Griot's Garage (boars hair brush, buckets, tools, use them after exhausting the other companies, above)
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=66073