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Warning lights :(

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by Mjolinor, Nov 13, 2009.

  1. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I think it is OK for your dad to drive the car, as you previously said that your sister and friend drove the car for an extended period without incident.

    What voltage does the Fluke measure across the 12V battery, when the car is IG-OFF? Should be 12.6V to 12.8V which would show that the battery is charged. If lower, then the new battery needs to be charged, an easy way to achieve that is to leave the car READY for a few hours - if a battery charger is not available.

    It's been previously noted that the voltage reported by the MFD is not necessarily the same as the voltage that a good digital multimeter will measure across the 12V battery terminals.

    Since your car is still covered by the hybrid system warranty, what prevents your dad or sister from taking the car to the local UK Toyota dealer now??
     
  2. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Well I know the local Toyota dealer. My history is one of being in the local motor trade for 20 years or so before I got into electronics. My reason for leaving the motor trade was that I needed to learn about electronics as vehicles couldn't be mended if you didn't know about electronics. I just never went back to it professionally once I had learned though I still do some for local garages.

    In short I wouldn't trust them to wash the windshield, they just do not know anything about this car. I need to make sure of the fault and the cure before I go there otherwise it may come back with a 5k bill and work no differently.

    Besides all that it's a lot more interesting looking into it (with your help) than it is taking it to a third party and forking out a month's wages.
     
  3. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Voltages on load. Any comments?

    DATA STREAM VALUE/STATUS

    Battery Blck 14.74 V
    Voltage 1
    Battery Blck 14.69 V
    Voltage 2
    Battery Blck 14.67 V
    Voltage 3
    Battery Blck 14.63 V
    Voltage 4
    Battery Blck 14.54 V
    Voltage 5
    Battery Blck 14.64 V
    Voltage 6
    Battery Blck 14.61 V
    Voltage 7
    Battery Blck 14.60 V
    Voltage 8
    Battery Blck 14.60 V
    Voltage 9
    Battery Blck 14.57 V
    Voltage 10
    Battery Blck 14.62 V
    Voltage 11
    Battery Blck 14.66 V
    Voltage 12
    Battery Blck 14.63 V
    Voltage 13
    Battery Blck 14.62 V
    Voltage 14
    Battery Blck 14.69 V
    Voltage 15
    Battery Blck 14.67 V
    Voltage 16
    Battery Blck 14.65 V
    Voltage 17
    Battery Blck 14.73 V
    Voltage 18
    Battery Blck 14.73 V
    Voltage 19
     
  4. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Only 0.2V diff between the lowest module pair and the highest. Seems OK to me.

    Again, I would say that the traction battery ECU seems to be having a problem since it is erroneously reporting a DTC when no problem seems to exist.
     
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  5. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    OK

    So ECU schematics are the next step, I can probably look at that with the gear I have at home, off I go to find some pictures of the offending article.

    Many many thanks for all the input. I will leave the thread there until I return to the UK. I will report again when I find more information and of report on the final outcome, new thread maybe, it depends.

    Thanks again.
     
  6. tomfreed

    tomfreed Junior Member

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    So your 02 Prius has 19 subpacks that is 14V rated in Europe?
    In the US 01-03 we have 38 subpacks that is 7.2V rated
     
  7. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    When read via a scanner, they are reported in pairs. So we have 38 modules but 19 module pairs at twice the voltage.

    Bob Wilson
     
  8. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    An update, not cured yet but of interest I think.

    My little sister (46 years old last week) bless her little cotton socks, decide to take the car to the local Toyota garage, this is the one I expressed concern about earlier in the thread.

    It took them 45 minutes to confirm that there was indeed a 3000 error logged and they didn't know what to do about it.

    What they did (at my sister's suggestion) was to ring a Toyota garage that did know about these things. This turned out to be the one about 30 miles away. I know that at that particular garage there is a mechanic who knows these things with his eyes closed so was interested to see what he had to say. The original garage did not charge anything but the second one wanted around £45 if it turned out to be not warranty.

    Incidentally the first garage said the battery and associated electronics were covered by 8 years or 100k miles, the second garage (receptionist) said it was 7 years and 100k miles.

    This was last Friday (27th Nov), today we got their results.

    There is nothing wrong with the battery, the fault is with the battery ECU. This is not covered under warranty as the boot (trunk) has water in and that has caused the problem.

    Conclusion warranty on these things aint worse squat, it's interesting to think that a 90 year old man is to blame when Toyota make a car that gets damaged in wet weather. :)

    It is quite sad that Toyota with all their years of experience cannot make a ECU box for electronics that keeps water out.

    So it's down to me to fix it.
     
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Well, at least you now know what the problem is.

    The traction battery ECU is located in the same case as the 38 battery modules. If water got into the case that might be causing damage to more than the ECU. For example, the three system main relays that open and close the positive and negative high voltage lines might be at risk of damage as well. Not to mention the risk of a high voltage leak to ground.

    You should also check the trunk weatherstripping and replace/repair as needed so that the trunk doesn't leak anymore. Good luck.
     
  10. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    I actually checked the trunk seal a few of months ago, I knew there was a water problem and it was the first consideration when this battery problem happened.

    The seal is good, I concluded that it is condensation at that time but I haven't seen the car for a few months, I will give it a more thorough check when I get back.

    It sucks being shut in the trunk while people squirt water at you but needs must :)
     
  11. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    So, back int the UK, major dismantling happening.

    I knew I should not have taken it to Toyota. Every single bolt on the battery and it's cover had been tightened to the verge of snapping, my normal rachet or T bar were not big enough, I had to resort to spanner and plastic hammer to get them undone. The security torque screw had been stripped in place as had several of the 10 mm (head size) bolts, most of the 13mm bolts have been stretched so they need spannering all the way out..

    Following this

    Installing a Prius HV Battery

    as a rough guide of what to do. What is scaring me right now is that I would have thought that a disconnect on the opposite end of the battery stack would have been necessary to increase safety but it seems that this is not the case and I am going to have to remove the ECU within 2 inches of the 270 odd volts of the HV battery, I am still thinking I have missed something somewhere.

    I was planning on doing it in the car but now reckon I will remove the whole thing and get it on the bench, less risk of blowing myself up and less risk of the cat jumping on the terminals, he likes cars in the cold weather.
     
  12. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    You mentioned water leak earlier. This can 'seize' threaded fasteners. I'm not ruling out over tightened but water is bad.

    When the interlock is removed, the traction battery becomes two, 135 V. packs. They can still kill you but it is more difficult as long as the safety interlock is out.

    GOOD CHOICE!

    Bob Wilson
     
  13. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    No water damage at all on any of the bolts, they have just been seriously overtightened.

    The voltage is way over 135 on the small buzz bars on the LHS of the battery. It leaks away once the meter is on but it comes back again. I don't know if this is normal or if it is a sign of leakage from the water. Definitely on the small bolts along the edge of the battery cells there is green so I reckon all bolts out, clean and replace with some vaseline, long job :(
     
  14. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Fixed :)

    Decided against doing the job at home adn having got the battery to the point where it would come out I put in a minimum number of bolts and connections, left it overnight and drove it to a friends garage this morniing.

    Removed battery and got it on the bench, ECU out and in bits, no damage, it has a pretty crap case but the quality of the electronics is excellent and sealed after assembly, it was perfect.

    The cells had soem verdigree on but not really what I considered to be enough to conduct, no paths from a cell bolt to ground or between cell bolts.

    The problem was the crap caramel / treacle / rock that they ahd put on the terminals presumably to stop exactly the problem I had. Note to Toyota, if you want to stop self discharge across the terminals use something that does not go conductive when it gets old.

    So that's it basically, I pulled the whole battery apart, removed all the bus bars, cleaned them, broke the cells apart because the crap they had put on stuck them all together, cleaned them and reassembled.

    Total time 3 hours yeaterday, 6 hours today and another 3 tomorrow to put the seats and stuff back in.

    Next step, a stinking letter to Toyota, no way was this water damage and under anyone's description it was a warranty job.
     
  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Congratulations - does this mean that replacement of the battery ECU plus cleaning the battery terminals was all that was required?

    How many miles have you driven the car since doing the job (it sounds like you haven't fully reassembled the trim yet.) Might want to put at least 100 miles on before declaring victory.
     
  16. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Done 20 miles and always it came back after clearing the fault within 15 seconds of the engine starting.

    I didn't replace the ECU, I jsut pulled it apart to check and it was perfect.

    Cleaning the battery terminals and the bus bars was all that was needed. Doesn't sound much but it has taken a long time of scratching and scraping to get the treacle off. I took some pics but can't find my camera lead, I'll post some bits later showing the conductive stuff that had to be removed.

    With all the bus bars removed so that each cell stood alone then on adjacent cells I was measuring between 5 and 16 volts with my DVM, admittedly it is very high impedance but obviously this should not be the case. I split the pack and forced the cells to separate and the voltage dropped to between 3 and 50 mV. When pushed together again the voltage came back so I jsut scrubbed and scraped and brushed and squirted it with WD40 until I could tighten the end bolts on the pack and still have less than .1 volts across any two adjacent cells.

    Much scraping of bus bars and reassemble and that was it.
     
  17. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    This is the stuff that had to be removed because it was conductive.
     

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  18. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    With the electrolyte leakage providing conductive paths between the various modules, I am surprised your car did not log DTC P3009 which would show a high voltage fault to ground. Or maybe the electrolyte did not leak down to the metal case?
     
  19. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    There is no electrolyte leakage. The stuff that looks like it was running down was like concrete, it hasn't run out from anywhere it has been applied by someone. If you pulled a lump off then it was kind of like hard rubber. It was on the orange plastic that the bus bars sit in as well, definitely stuck on there after assembly of the battery block.
     
  20. Mjolinor

    Mjolinor New Member

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    Whole battery and ECU

    What are the small felt pads under the +ve terminals for?
     

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