Warning light issue

Patrick,

When the ICE is recharging the Traction Battery I am seeing inverter temperatures of 165 F while parked with high outside air temperatures (see picture). While driving, the inverter temperature is usually about 135 F on a hot day while charging.

I've read that the maximum inverter temperature is over 200 F.

I'm not at all concerned, just making notes of what is normal so when something starts to fail I have reference point.

Cheers

 

Great job! There's a lot of satisfaction repairing a car for much less than a dealer/repair shop.

 

I still would be worried about damage to the 12 volt battery, since it sat completely discharged for a while. Even a deep cycle battery like the Prius has, can't withstand that kind of abuse. Using the diagnostic screen you mentioned earlier, you should see 12.7+ volts in the first non-Ready accessory state (no brake - push the Start button once). If you continue to see 12.1 volts you have a problem. In the 2nd non-Ready state (two Start button pushes, no brake) you'll see the voltage drop slightly since most of the 12 volt systems come online, but it shouldn't drop into the 11 volt range. Then in Ready mode, as mentioned above, you'll see 13.8-14.5 since the DC-DC converter will now be supplying a charge to the 12 volt battery.

 

In order to cut down on misunderstanding, one should endeavor to use the correct terminology.

ACC ............ Foot off the brake, press start button once.
IG-ON ......... Foot off the brake, press start button twice. (Once again, if in ACC)
OFF ........... Foot off the brake, press start button a third time. (Once again, if in IG-ON).

READY ....... Foot on the brake, press start button once.

NB: Pressing the Start button once, with your foot ON the brake, from any of the above states (ACC, IG-ON, OFF), will start the car and make it READY to drive.

This should really be: Then in READY mode, as mentioned above, you'll see a momentary drop (due to a short burst of high current drain - possibly even below 12 V), prior to the DC-DC converter coming online, and then 13.8-14.5 continuously since the DC-DC converter will now be supplying a charge to the 12 volt battery.

Where did 12.1 V come from? Is that a typo - did you mean 12.7+?

Hope that helps.

 

I don't remember seeing any drop in either of mine when changing to Ready mode - the DC-DC converter engages and the voltage rises. Getting ready to swap out the traction battery on one of them soon so I'll be in the diagnostic screen more often so I'll check again.

 

If you are using the MFD, you might not see it as it is really only momentary. You will see it if you use your volt meter.

 

Well, I was clear about taking the reading using the diagnostic screen and not a VOM. That would require two people for starters.

 

Well, that is true and I did register that fact, however, I can testify it is possible that one can use a VM solo, with a bit of thought. I just thought you might be interested to know that there is a momentary high current drain just before the DC-DC converter kicks in.

Even if you are not interested yourself, others reading this thread might.

 

Windows 7, 32 bit OS is also OK.

 

Mini VCI cannot be surpassed for Toyota vehicles troubleshooting. How about either buying a used laptop or else install Windows 7 32 bit OS on an existing unit.

 

there aren't any that will read all the specific codes. so if you're not concerned with accuracy, perhaps someone will chime in with what works best for them.

 

What system are you running on your laptop? Any Windows system from W98SE to W10 32 or 64 bit can be used without to much difficulty.
Mac can also be used. Member Patrick Wong has the details for this.

John

 

Or buy a cheap ($50?) xp laptop from your local used computer dealer or from craigslist.

 

1. You're looking at the CD with a Microsoft Windows computer, in a Windows Explorer window?
2. What files are you seeing?
3. Do you have Win Explorer set up to display file extensions? Anything showing with extention .exe?

 

When you are trying to establish comm between the Prius and Mini VCI, start with the Prius in the IG-ON mode (which means all dashboard warning lights are on. The car is not READY.) That mode places substantial drain on the 12V battery so don't leave the car IG-ON for an extended period.

Once comm has been established then you can make the Prius READY.