valve stem seal DIY

Does anyone have torque specs for the camshaft bearing bolts? O have the sequence just dont have the torque specs.

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Torque vallues in the attached. The install sequence instruction (also in attachment) mentions looking at marks on the bearing caps, don't quite understand. have a read.

Also, these linked 3rd gen videos might be helpful, regarding the sequence. I think criss-cross, starting from center and working out.

New head gasket replacement video from Gasket Masters | PriusChat

 

Thanks for the response.

I was able to do this with the similar torque specs and sequence. My current issue right now is when I have the marks lined up I try to turn the crankshaft and it stops maybe barely moving. I haven't turned this car back on at all so even turning by hand it doesn't move... I've tried to turn it with everything bolted down and nothing yet.

It only turns when I remove the camshafts rods... It turns freely with no issues.

Tensioners on and off still nothing...

Should I keep trying to line it up or as I've read I could try to line up with crankshaft 90 or 180 degrees..????? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

Did you use the folded paper under the camshaft bearing caps to lock them trick?

 

I have no idea what that trick is. I will message you right now...

 

It sound like a piston is hitting a valve.
If it turns with the camshafts off, that should give you a hint.
Make double, and triple sure that the cams are on correctly. And in the correct place.
I think it does make a difference because there is a front and back one.

Someone who's done this needs to comment, I'm certain they would know.

Each cam should be able to turn on it's on, some, without the chain on it. It would have to so you
can line up the marks.

I think it is something simple. Maybe out of alignment, left and right.
Look at EVERYTHING very carefully.

 

There's also mention in the latest Gasket Master video (I linked earlier), to ensure the little rockers (that sit right under the cam lobes) are put on straight, not canted to the side at all. If one was canted, maybe that would jam the lobe, prevent turning? Look them all over, from the side?

 

I removed the camshaft 1 and 2 to install new valve guide stem seals so I never accessed the rockets you're referring to.

In other videos and photos I've seen I noticed this may require turning a sprocket to give more pull or slack when all is installed. I will give it a go again I feel like it's something small like an alignment detail I'm missing. It turns fine when none of the camshaft rods are installed so clearly it's the position or alignment of the camshaft after bolted down that I'm missing.



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Watch the GM videos again, see if something catches your attention, looks different, in the way they do it.

Links in post 62

 

I am being told by someone that my shortcut technique to change the valve stem guide seals may have bent the valve stems when rotating parts. I was planning to teach myself the head gasket job on the gen 2 and gen 3 so this might be a blessing in disguise. I do believe I did everything right except for maybe rotating things and taking a shortcut to hold the valve stems up. I will confirm for everyone but I think this is an easy job all in all. If this goes well which it should this could be a great way to save money on the gen 3 major issues.

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You cannot bend the valves by rotating the engine by hand. If you had tried to start it, then
a good chance it would have.
Did you check the typing marks again?

 

I checked the markings and have tried to position the camshaft 39.5 degrees etc etc. I line up all of the markings and install then proceed to turn by hand it wont even begin the turn. It gives me zero chance to turn it but when I remove the camshaft 1 and 2 I can easily rotate it by hand freely. I've tried with the tensioner on and off and still nothing.

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The rockers would have been sitting there loose after you removed the camshafts above them. It would be easy for any of them to get a bit out of position, while there were no camshafts above them holding them down. You really have to make sure all sixteen are positioned as shown in the manual before cranking the camshafts back down on them.

Tightening the cam bearing bolts is what forces the cams back down, and will open the valves (in the cylinders whose valves should be open at that point in the cycle). If the timing isn't right when that happens, valves might get pushed into pistons.

The possibility of doing damage while hand-turning the crankshaft might seem far-fetched. The possibility of doing damage while tightening cam bearing bolts should seem less far-fetched.

 

I dont think gen 2 has those rockers

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Darn it, you're absolutely right, I somehow got it in my head again this was a gen 3.

Sorry for the noise.

 

Instead of putting rope in the spark plugs hole why don't you hold the valves in place w air pressure? Hook up a compression guage set to your air compressor. Plug the quick release hose of the compression test hose to you air line.
https://m.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/compression-tester/oemtools-compression-tester-gauge-set/424906_0_0?aqs=

 

PS I'm very interested in the results of your research

 

Have you tried only connecting ONE camshaft? Then turn the engine a little?
I also thought you were talking about the 3rd Generation....
Even before connection the chain, the crank should be at TDC.
Then install 1 camshaft, the mark on the gear should be as close to the position/mark as you can get it.
Yes, as you hold it down and start to tighten the bolt you'll get resistance from the valve springs.
Then turn the crank, if it turns freely, you know that on is fine.
Then install the other one, again getting the marks close to the alignment mark.
Again, the crank should turn slightly. This is with any engine.

I can't think of the name of them, but are the cam keepers(?) the pieces that hold the camshaft down,
in the correct position? Do they easily align with the other side, on the head?
Either they are not, and are pinching the cam so it cannot move, or they are not in the proper position.
More than likely, they are too tight. Because 2 piston are at the bottom, and 2 are at the top.
When you turn the crank clockwise, the 2 at the top are going down, so it won't matter where the valves are.
The 2 at the bottom are too far away until you've turn the crank 180 degrees.

Go S L O W, Check each camshaft as you align it and tighten the bolts down.
If it turns freely without the camshafts, you know THAT is where the problem is...

 

That's funny that you say that about holding the cam turned slightly because when I removed the camshaft the first time I noticed it popped up and turned slightly. I made a mental note that there was no way that was flat which is what I am trying to do right now. I thought maybe I was crazy to think I may have to hold it down in a different angle to put it back in position. It literally popped up and turned which was weird but I think I'll give it a go again.

 

Is there only ONE camshaft on the 2nd Generation???
If you watch it, you'll notice the lobs are pressing on some of the valves.
This IS normal. And as you remove the camshaft, it will pop up from the valve spring pressure.
All the "caps" need to be in the same place they were when you removed them. AND, facing the same way.
I always scratched a mark, or used a small hammer and punch to make them.