To minimize emissions, once the ICE is started cold it must go through the warming cycle. I can see your frustration of accidentally triggering the ICE by going over the threshold in a short trip. I think Toyota should relate to this. I can think of adding a simple warning indicator that you are approaching the threshold, like for example, the EV indicator (this green car icon) turning from green to yellow, you can then hold the pedal or back off a little bit to avoid triggering the ICE.
I wonder, what EU version of PiP, which has EV City mode button, will do with that button, that doesn't do with US PiP. Maybe exactly that?
That's actually secondary, though still a high priority. The primary purpose has always been emission reduction. This has been what sets Prius apart from many of the other hybrids. It intentionally consumes gas for the sake of maximum cleansing. MPG while in EV mode with the automatic switch to HV for warm-up is still outstanding. There's also some EV replenish that occurs as a result of the engine running. So unless you drive nothing but short-trips with hard acceleration, the gas usage is somewhat of a wash anyway. .
It would be interesting to see the data gathered from the early model driving. I suspect that was a major contributor to the reason for not offering that here. In fact, that was why we got the HV/EV button. Also, keep in mind that Volt doesn't offer an HV/EV button (aka: "hold") here but does in Europe. .
Does the EV city keep the ICE from coming on at all, but then what about heat? What would its use be over EV/HV?
As far as I understand, the City EV button is raising the threshold above it the ICE starts, so giving moe flexibility of EV in city driving. It is not a 'hold' button.
I left the Dealer today and noticed that he turned off my Headlights. Then I noticed that the Dash Dimmer Dial (Instrument Panel Light Control Dial) didn't affect the Dash Light like when the Headlights are ON. My Headlight switch has 4 positions of OFF - DRL - Side Marker - Headlights. In the OFF or DRL positions, when the Dial is clicked up to the top, the Dash Brightness is Max. When the Dial is clicked down off MAX, the Dash Brightness stays Max. When the Dial is almost to the botton, the Dash Brightness snaps to dimmer, not variable. In the Side Marker or Headlights positions, when the Dial is clicked up to the top, the Dash Brightness is Max. When the Dial is clicked down off MAX, the Dash Brightness starts at dim and varies until when the Dial is at the botton, the Dash is Dark. Strange the Dial works different, based on the Headlight Switch. I also wish I had an AUTO Position, that would keep the Headlights and their energy OFF until nightfall. I hate wasting the kWhs.
I was testing the Above Dimmer Dial in the Driveway. After I had left the car for an Hour, I noticed the Headlights were on. GREAT !!! I had changed the Headlight Timer to Zero a week ago that had been working. So I started the PIP, then turned it off, opened the door and the Headlights turned OFF, like they are suppose to. With the car off, if I change the Headlight Switch from Headlight to another position and back to Headlights, they come ON. AND STAYED ON. DAMN. I started and stopped the PIP and the Headlights went OFF. Confusing !!!
$11.5k trade-in on a 2007 is a good price. Private party generally gives higher as we know but it wouldn't have been higher enough to be worth the hassle in this case, IMO.
If your headlights are on, then it's presumed to be dark outside. So to preserve your night vision, the dash lighting can be dimmed to a comfortable level. Whereas if your headlights are off, then it's presumed to be day out and you need the dash lighting to be at it's brightest because daylight would wash out the light. The dimmer dial allows you set a comfortable level for night driving, and when your headlights are off, reverts automatically to full on brightness for day use. There is an override setting on the dial that allows you to have your headlights on and full dash lighting. This is usually needed when driving during the day in conditions that require your headlights be on (certain highways for safety, in the rain, long tunnels, just before dusk or right after dawn).
Headlights off is interpreted as daylight drive, so full brightness. Headlights on - night driving so dimmer controlled. In my CTh I have Auto position, when I get into a tunnel the dash is automatically dimmed together with headlights on.
Finally, my 1st Fillup. Added it to the MPG Spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...WDBUdGc#gid=10 1045 miles, 8.875 gallons, Metered kWh=187.9 EV Display=161 kWh, 8 Gal, 13.5 Saved, EV%=59, 621 miles, HV%=41, 423 miles Since HV Miles includes the EV miles driven when in HV Mode, the HV MPG clouded. But then not all the EV miles are from kWh energy. Some are from Regen.
Here is my Plug-In Prius Daily Energy Usage data from purchase to date, including 1st Fillup. Sure would be a lot easier with a Data Logger in the PIP !!! I broke it into 3 jpgs, but it's still Very difficult to read due to the File Max size restriction of 97.7 K per picture. Or see copy I added to Google doc at https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmN9HqNt_ZSedFh1THM4dV9XTElvTDl3UXkzZEZsQ1E
Lots of cool data.. and nice driving.. impressive EV% for a PiP.. seems like an ideal car for your patterns. Too bad there is not autologging like we get from onstar in the volt. Voltstats.net is great for us, though its not as detailed as your log, its nearly zero effort. Did you consider a android phone, bluetooth and troque? Its what I use to log in my VOlt.. but for the PiP you should get a more more interesting data. I used a old phone, a $20 adapter and $5 for torque.. Great since I wanted a cheap solution for occasional more detailed logging.
Because it's hard to read, I copied the data to Google Docs. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmN9HqNt_ZSedFh1THM4dV9XTElvTDl3UXkzZEZsQ1E