TRS Morimoto Elite H11 HID kit issue

It appears that TRS is saying to use the canbus relay on 2013+ model according to several posts in this thread, but other users says ditch the canbus and run the HD supply relay. Can some other 2013+ owners chime in who have this kit?

 

The canbus relay is for vehicles equipped with a headlight out warning system. Toyota does not have this.

 

Mine came with the HD relay kit and harness for free. I have not used it


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Once in a great while but I usually don't notice. I don't really think that I have an issue with the factory wiring.

I've only noticed it one time fail to come on after replacing the bulbs. A restrike made it come back on (a quick flip off and back on).


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Yeah the "better safe than sorry" route is to install the harness. But I believe I've heard the 55W kit requires the harness for sure and 35W kit it's optional.

Allegedly the issue with the factory wiring is the inrush current when you first turn the lights on, if the ballast can't draw enough then the lamp fails to light.

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Is it always the same side that doesn't light up?

 

Yes I don't have auto lamps but the second time you lock the doors with the remote after parking, shuts the lights off instantly. I usually leave the light switch set to on.


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Do you have access to a volt-ohm meter? Maybe the voltage never made it, possibly. Or low voltage not causing that bulb to light. Its not blowing the fuse, its not a short. So high resistance somewhere or the volts never made it to the target. That would be volt drop.

The other would be poor grounding. In order for the electrons to flow, there needs to be a good ground, too. Ever seea car that the turn signal causes other bulbs to come on dimly? Or a headlamp that is much dimmer that the other? That is an example of poor ground. Sometimes, it's merely tightening a bolt or screw, or cleaning a rusty, corroded connection. All cars get it, some sooner than others.

Do you know how to check the ground side?

 

Standard, stock wiring may not be great enough diameter to support those lamps. I have also seen guys melt the wires right out of a stock bulb socket. Your '15 had what kind of bulbs?

 

Initially, HID'S will pull 20 amps or more to get the gas glowing then it falls back to 3 to 6 amps after its glowing. The ballast keep everything working steady.

But by turning on a few times got the bulbs on? I turn my HID'S on mine I see them go pink, in out stop and there brilliant blue. I had one at the almost ten year mark turn reddish pink. I replaced both.
Stock bulbs in mine are 55 watt Sylvania In my Gen 2. High beam is produced by a mirror near the bulb.

On low, you can see a sharp cutoff line that flares right. On high, the cutoff is gone and its pure bluish white light. The only better low beam I have found is on the '14 and up Corolla. They're nice.

 

I wonder if the on-off effect caused the other bulb to come on after one of them needed 3A. to continue on and the other then was able to get "started" then by having enough available amps (to have 15 to 20A) and then dropped to 3A. Possibly? If you are going to LED's, everything should be fine. Lower amp draw, instant on and practically lifetime of the car's longevity.

 

I just don't get it. I've never ran a relay harness of any sort in any of my cars. Never have I ever had an issue with my stuff.

I feel that something so simple has been turned into something so complicated.


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