Transmission fluid change

^ My take is that the Toyota policy on transaxle fluid change is implied by the lack of any mention of transaxle fluid change in the maintenance schedule. Well, at least for 3rd gen.

Here's the transaxle fluid change for 3rd generation. Kind of out of place here, but at least it addresses the simplicity of a change. This in an excerpt from the Repair Manual.

 

Brought my car in to dealer for engine and inverter coolant changes and transaxle fluid change. They checked the transaxle fluid but where adamant that it does not need to be changed and is for the life of the car. And this dealer does push somewhat to perform extra services like they suggested replace spark plugs (because of mileage but without asking if they had ever been replaced), A/C system cleaning, and brakes cleaning. Just kind of surprised that they would turn down the extra service that I requested.

 

Especially since it will take the tech around 20 minutes and is a really easy way to add ~$150 to your repair invoice.

 

I was trying to drain the ATF fluid in my Prius yesterday and the 24mm fill screw just turns and turns and wont open (this is the one located about 12 inches above the drain screw)... any ideas? I didn't open the drain screw yet luckily. The screw does not extend out of the hole either, when it turns it remains fully against the transmission case.

 

I suggest you seek professional assistance.

 

31,ooo mile transaxle service done, thanks to what I learned here. Thank you all.

So easy, 1/2" 24mm 6 point socket, 1/2" 10mm hex socket, 4 liters ATF WS, two washers, 32" hose, dollar store funnel and a torque wrench set to 29ft lbs. p.s. I didn't use my torque wrench to loosen the nuts, which is a no no.

Drove onto the ramp and drained 3.9L, actually measured this time, then filled 3.9L.
I didn't have to remove the cover to get the hose to the fill hole.

I think I will do it again at 30k miles then every 60k miles.

 

All stealerships push some extra crap. That is where the bulk of their money comes from. As far as the ATF, that's a load of bunk because even in my Tacoma the company states it changed at 60K.

 

I just wanted to say, the dealerships are thives. They quoted my girlfriend 175.00 to change the transaxle fliud. I laughed, so I changed it for her. It honestly took me about 30 minutes. I was not prepared, for what this job entailed. Here are some tips before you try to change the transaxle fluid. Fabricate a funnel with at least a 3ft hose (preferably a clear hose), this will make your life easy, 24mm socket and a 10mm allen. I bought 4 qts of oil, but only used 3.75 qts. This job is real simple, don't let the dealerships or other automotive shop bend you over, by charging a 100 plus dollars, for a job that should cost no more than $80.

 

Is that thieves with knives ?
Dealerships are ridiculous. Then again, I often wonder at the people who go to them.

 

Thought I was going to perform this maintenance today. First issue. I don't work on cars. But it sounded so easy from the description in this thread, and my dealer wanted $166.00 to do it. Second issue. I can't find a funnel with a 3 foot flexible hose end. Third issue. The car is too low to ride up the wheel lifts without scraping the bumper. And the lifts won't even fit under the car for the rear wheels. Fourth issue. I have no idea how to torque the fill and drain plugs to an exact amount. Seriously, an I the only one who had these issues?! I will be losing daylight soon and I am afraid to even try.

Question: what diameter tube do I need to buy to fit in the fill hole if I do brave the attempt? Thanks.
Been so long since I've posted...I currently have a 2009 silver pine package 5, bought used with 79k miles; now at 136k.

 

Given all the issues you are concerned about, especially the first, maybe you should just spend the $166 and not worry. However if you should decide to break through the mental roadblocks you've established for yourself, the job is relatively easy.

1. Decide that you will, in fact, become interested in working on cars, and make the necessary investment so that you can be successful. Don't buy the cheapest possible tools that you can find.

2. Make a funnel with a 3 ft. long tail, that is not so hard to do - is it? Buy a funnel and attach a flexible vinyl hose of an appropriate inner diameter to it, using electrician's tape to seal the hose to the funnel. The hose should not be more than 3/4" outer diameter, to easily fit into the transaxle fill hole.

I use a plastic transmission oil funnel and a flexible hose taped to the end of the funnel. That funnel has a very long, elongated shape which makes it easy to keep the funnel in an upright position as it is inserted next to the inverter.

3. Buy a decent hydraulic floor jack and jack stands to hold up the front of the car. You need to raise the front of the car, not the rear.

4. Buy a 1/2" click type torque wrench and the necessary sockets (24 mm 6-point socket, and 10 mm hex key socket) and set the tightening torque to 29 ft.-lb.

 

Doesn't the car need to be raised and level, to get the fluid level right? You could drive up on your ramps, with something like 2x8 lead-up, and then jack up the rear and stabilize with safety stands.

Mostly, though, I'd go with Patrick's first sentence. Only, $166 seems high, phone other dealerships? $100 would be more in line: it's not that different from an oil change, the fluid a bit more expensive.

 

If you strive for perfection then the car should be level. However if the front of the car is higher than the rear, you'll end up putting perhaps two more ounces of transaxle ATF into the fill hole, that is not the end of the world.

If you are a perfectionist, then after you've raised up the front of the car on jack stands, bring the hydraulic jack to the rear of the car, and raise up the rear using the center rear jacking point. Then the car will be perfectly level and you will have no worries about overfilling the transaxle.

 

A half inch OD clear vinyl tube about three foot long is much better than a 3/4 or even a 5/8 OD tube. This stuff should not cost more than a dollar and a half at Home Depot or Lowe's, which sells it by the foot in the plumbing department.

The $10 (with coupon) 3/8 inch Harbor Freight torque wrench is the way to go. It actually tested well against the very expensive ones. The 3/8 model is handier than the 1/2 inch model for most jobs on the Prius.

Torque Wrench Testing - Shop Tools - Car Craft Magazine

I developed this special transaxle set, including a high strength rare earth neodymium magnet, that uses a 24mm hex rather than a shallow 24mm or an M10 socket plug.

My transaxle fluid change and NEW custom drain and fill plugs... | PriusChat

It eliminates a lot of extra tools for any future fluid changes, and the neodymium magnet realls catches the worn off iron and steel swarf. It works with ALL Gen II and Gen III Prius models.

 

Patrick, I've already done my smack talking, so I want to at least try!

Unfortunately, I didn't watch the video until yesterday afternoon, so I did not fully understand that I actually NEEDED A 3 FT HOSE or a pump to go from underneath. So, I started out to late in the day to be bothered with driving in to town to get hose and, apparently, a torque wrench (not mentioned in the original list of materials - perhaps that was inferred by those who are used to working on cars).

Now the temperature has gone down by 20 degrees, so I've lost a little motivation to work outside, but I will let you know if I cave and pay someone or if I accomplish it myself! Cheers!

Note: I previously owned a 2004 Tideland Pearl package 9 that I gave up at 243k after 9 years of ownership. As far as I am aware, the transmission fluid was never changed. dealer suggested that this service be done at my last oil change.

 

Well, I would consider this service to be discretionary in the sense that whether you do it now or do it in April or May 2015 makes little difference.

I'm old enough so that I prefer to do discretionary vehicle service during a comfortable season. There is no need to be freezing to death or sweating in the hot summer sun while working on a car, that constitutes unnecessary drama in my book.

You'll have enough drama when things don't go as you intend, when you first start working on cars and descend the learning curve. So, there is no need for the weather to also be fighting you.

 

Yeah, there's no need to rush this. Get the tools and setup you need, do it when the weather and time cooperate.

 

Be aware that a 3/4 inch or 5/8 inch tube is too large for the 18mm fill hole. There will be no way to relieve the trapped air to be vented out of the transaxle when fluid is filled through the funnel.

It is better to use a 1/2 inch OD tine and wedge a stick or a straw between it and the threads of he fill hole. That way, trapped air will be released as well as extra fluid when the fill reaches the hole.

I prefer to use ramps and jack the back with a floor jack at the rear jacking point to level the car.

Add fluid at level until fluid drips out the fill hole, pull the funnel tube and replace the fill plug.

Lower and remove the floor jack. Drive the car off the ramps, and you're done.

 

Trapped air? Just stick the 1/2 hose in the hole and fill till it dribbles out. There's not an airtight connection with the hose in the hole bro. Don't stick a straw or anything else in the hole. Harbor Freight sells the funnel and the hose.

Torque wrench is total over kill. Just tighten it down its not going anywhere. I guarantee the tech at a dealer is not using a torque wrench to bolt it back up. If your so inexperienced working on cars that you need a torque wrench to sock it down right you shouldn't be messing with the trans to begin with.

 

just did the drain & fill today on my wife 2008 @ 70k miles. had only waited so long because i did't know until more research that it was basically a transmission drain & fill.

took a bit longer than an oil change. had to find/get all extra tools (allen head for drain plug, large socket for fill plug) and to raise the rear on some jack stands. with oil changes i usually just use ramps.

the old transaxle oil was definitely a dark shade of red compared to the clear red of the fresh mobil 3309 i poured in, but not quite as dirty as the atf oil from my 2008 volvo @ 45k that came out very dark. the atf on our 2011 odyssey @ 30k looked just a touch darker than new (granted mostly freeway miles on those 30k). will probably do the next transaxle drain & fill @ 100k miles, when other major fluids get changes (coolant, brake)