Transaxle Failure

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Batteries not included.

 

I've even had hot oil go onto other places. Since this is the family-friendly section of the forum, I won't describe where the oil went baaaaaa

 

Yep, just when I get all excited, BAM the letdown ...

 

Reminds me of the time my front wheel drive car cracked an engine block. I bought a reman and bolted it in myself over the weekend. It was a long hard job and I had never done it before which made it even harder. Taking pictures really helps.

This is a prime example of why not to keep a car after the warranty expires.

Good job by the way.

 

yes sure

just by a new car after 3 to5 years depending on warranty...

not all the people have that kind off money or even want to.

 

If I bought vehicles that way, I'd just go out and buy the cheapest nastiest Chevy or Dodge product I could find

 

How Boutz An Update?
How's the tranzaxel doing?
Did you ever disect(dissassemble) the tranz?

 

We're a patient bunch. When you find the time, we're eagerly looking forward to your autopsy report

 

I just went through this entire thread and hope I never have to do that kind of job, but if I do, I'll refer to this. I hope to see follow ups on the broken unti too. Thanks Peter. Also, Re: the service manager and his 38 yrs of hybrid experience. This is possible if he used to be a heavy equipment mechanic. Not uncommon for old dozers such as International designed to start on gas and then switch over to diesel once warm.

 

Nice work, and inspiring. I bought a 2003 very cheaply with a toast transaxle which I will be replacing very soon. I will post a thread in the Gen I section. I'll post a link here when It's ready.

What special tools did you need and what gaskets/supplies? I know I need a few torx drivers and the fluids but what else? THX.

 

I know it's a bit too late now, but why didn't Toyota replace the transaxle under the warranty I have a 2005 with 130,000 miles on it and Toyota is replacing it for free. The warranty in CA runs to 150,000 miles.

Randy

 

Sure. I'll send you a PM.

 

Hi it's amazing to read through you guys sharing exp. I have a 2008 and am planing to change transmission oil at 30K. I'm pretty much a brand new DIYer...the most I did is just changing engine oil and air filters, rotating tires..

1. What book/instructions mentioned here you guys recommend? Sorry, since I have too many dumb questions, better read it myself first. Or anybody has clear instruction for transmission oil change?
2. I saw the pics shared. So the transaxle oil should be pumped in from the bottom? Or there's other way to fill from the top? Do I need to take out any part before I can fill in new fluids?
3. Where do I get the transmission oil? Is it the same with Toyota ATF WS? (And what does the ATF WS stand for?) "Washer" also were brought up in other transmission oil change topic. What's the different?

 

This emboldened me, a novice DIY-er myself, to change my own. It is one of the more complete discussions on the topic, with pics once you wade into the thread a bit.

 

There is a top fill plug that you access using a funnel with a piece of tubing. Make sure to loosen the fill plug before draining the ATF so that you are sure that you can refill it. Do NOT open the coolant drain plug by mistake.

ATF Is Automatic Transmission Fluid. WS is a Toyota term "World Standard?". It is the ATF that you should use and is available at your Toyota dealer. You need four quarts. The washers are simple gaskets used to help prevent leaks at the drain and refill plugs.

I usually just let the dealer do this task for about $100 but it is a reasonable DIY.

JeffD

 

I just had the transaxle fluid replaced today (70,598 miles) at a local dealership for $79.66 all-up. The service writer didn't appear to know much about the Prius, but I'm getting used to that. They took a 1-pint sample for me which looks and smells good, but I'm going to run it through some filter paper and see if there's any particulates in it. They didn't comment on the drain plug appearance, or when in the drain process they took the sample. I'm sending a sample off to PdMA (now R&G (I think) Labs, 813-643-3513).

Update: Their summary: The iron, aluminum, and copper content have been flagged for observation. Abrasive contamination is suspected based on the silicon content. The sample from this unit contained trace water contamination.

Details:

WEAR METALS
Iron Fe ppm 175
Chromium Cr ppm 3
Molybdenum Mo ppm 0
Aluminum Al ppm 54
Copper Cu ppm 26
Lead Pb ppm 2
Tin Sn ppm 3
Silver Ag ppm 0
Nickel Ni ppm 8
Vanadium V ppm 0
Titanium Ti ppm 0
Manganese Mn ppm 5
Cadmium Cd ppm 0
CONTAMINANT METALS
Silicon Si ppm 195
Sodium Na ppm 7
Boron B ppm 35
ADDITIVE METALS
Magnesium Mg ppm 3
Calcium Ca ppm 103
Barium Ba ppm 19
Phosphorus P ppm 221
Zinc Zn ppm 37
NON-METALLIC CONT.
Water % vol Trace
Solids % vol <0.1
LUBE DATA
Viscosity @ 40'C cSt 21.7
Viscosity @ 100'C cSt 4.7
ADDITIONAL TESTS
Viscosity Index 139
Severity:
Recommended Action:
(MH) - Moderately High

 

Gents
As an Independant shop owner specializing in Prius repair most of the transaxle repairs are due to lubrication issues or overheating.

The operating pressure is 1.5 psi created by the G rotor pump in the back cover and an internal PRV and O ring which sometimes ruptures causing loss of flow.
The units REQUIRE good lubrication and simple overlooked issues like lack of fluid can and DO cause some expensive repairs.I see frequent failures of the radial ball bearing on the aft support of MG1, (overheats and breaks up the track) and tears up the support bushes of the input shaft to the epicyclic pack when oil levels are low.
In many cases in higher mileage units or when a car has been curbed; the body shop removes the CV shaft resulting in frequent loss of fluid and level neglect. Subsequent driving on low fluid understandably causes rapid failure.
I have overhauled a number of these units, the current concern is the resolver (cosine/sine wave producer) which is located on the aft side of MG1. Equally the similar unit located in the back cover around the oil pump.These bolts must never be touched since the timing of the resolver units are set in the factory and will really mess with MG1 & MG2 speed phasing--So beware if you are inclined to open a unit for a DIY repair.,
Equally the coolant should be changed at 40K miles as sludge/coolant deposits tend to collect inside the power converter in the coolant chamber affecting operation. In any case the system MUST be purged an the pump checked for operation especially after collision repairs.
Actros
Golden Co