Toyota Super Long Life Coolant

The older red Toyota coolant is full strength -- I still use it in my older Lexus. The new stuff is pinkish and premixed. I never mix different fluids .. ever. You can actually purchase the OE coolant (Aisin) in the USA now -- from Autohause -- I think it is $18.00.

The maintenance is just a dump and refill .... this is not a place to try and save a few dollars with a spec fluid.

 

I did not remove the engine block drain bolt. I've seen post of the 2010's with a drain bolt that connects to a drain hose (maybe a carry over from Gen2's?). The 2011's and after don't have this. The ones that have removed it state a very small amount was drained. Not worth the effort.

 

I guess it's your comfort call on this one, it is your own car. You keep going back to the quote "what my biggest unknown is", so you obviously have a concern. It's not like you're saving $100, you are merely saving $10....possibly. The damage it could cause if you were given the wrong information? Last I remember, these run thousands of dollars at the dealership. But still your call.

 

Just a FYI, in Canada the Toyo premix is 55%.

I agree with JC, no upside to saving a few $, so infrequently, weighed against the possible problems.

 

Toyota SLLC2 is a "Phosphated HOAT" which is typical for Asian vehicles. Peak Global Lifetime is not a "Phosphated HOAT". Not worth saving a few dollars to find out which one is better at preventing corrosion or maintaining the integrity of gaskets.

The closest equivalent appears to be the Zerex Asian Vehicle Coolant which states it is a "Phosphated HOAT".

 

the red coolant is not labeled as "super long life" because it's good for 30k miles. The pink super long life coolant is good for 100k, after that, every 50k miles. Yes they are compatible but you still shouldn't mix them. $18 a gallon for super long life coolant compared to maybe $10 for Peak generic fluid....is hardly "an arm and a leg" difference.

There is a debate about transaxle fluids here regarding using Toyota WS fluid and some alternative substitute. Yes they probably both will work, but the cost is quite similar, so why use something that's an "alternative"? Using OEM fluid doesn't require research and the time saved researching should be worth more than money saved by using an alternative.

 

Whatever fluid (coolant, transaxle, oil) you choose should be backed up with receipts if there is ever any problem that could conceivably be traced back to using a particular fluid, especially if the car (or hybrid system) is still under warranty. For piece of mind, I always use the OEM fluids, since the cost difference is negligible. Running trouble-free since July 2009 (currently at 92K.)

Good luck with your research.

 

Times two = $36, because it's pre-diluted to 50% strength (in the US), and that's an uncommonly low price for the stuff.

 

You can get the red coolant for $21 and that's full strength, not diluted. Although it only lasts about half as long.

 

I am going to throw my 2 cents in I have a 2013 Prius V that I bought at a salvage auction with 4k on the speed o all of the cooling was gone I replaced with auto zone super long life coolant I now have 35k on clock now, the way I was told about coolant was to do a alkalinity tests strips to see how it's doing as far as making sure it's not eating gaskets or aluminum basically keeping it nutrial on the pH scale.

 

To clarify your original claims/questions/statements:

1. People say Peak Global Lifetime coolant can be used to top off the Toyota SLLC. NO! They are not equivalent due to the SLLC2 being a Phosphated HOAT. Your research is wrong.

2. Manufacturer guarantees if you do a flush and fill. YES. They will only guarantee it if a flush and fill is done. This adds additional cost over the Toyota SLLC2 which is only a drain and fill.

3. Peak Global Lifetime coolant only cost $5.50 gallon. YES, but, how much did you add in for the required flush? Shop rates around $80/hour? Even if you're doing it yourself, your time is worth something.

 

concentrate
Pentosin 8115209 - Engine Coolant | O'Reilly Auto Parts

50-50 mixed
Aisin Act 002 Engine Coolant Antifreeze | eBay

 

Car manufacturers purchase coolant from others ... but they use different additive packs. So the base fluid from one may be the same as the base in another -- but the additives are different. This is done for a variety of reasons -- longevity -- metal content and seal construction.

When you mix the two types of Toyota coolant -- the newer coolant no longer can be kept in the engine as long. Anyone giving advise on this topic is doing so blindly (unless they have direct knowledge on the Toyota fluid). While some incompatible fluids will Gell in short order the normal consequence is reduced internal corrosion protection and the evidence of this takes years.

Again -- why use something that is going to reduce the change interval (shorten)

 

Also...since you are an aerospace engineer, maybe you can ask both manufacturers for their MSDS sheets and then you can compare for yourself the facts and content differences and decide whether you should even try another brand or stick with the stock recommended fluid.

A0001 ?

 

On the pink SLLC, why does it drop to 50k miles after the first change?

 

Most manufacturers have intervals like that: longer first interval, then shorter for subsequent.

One reason to stick with original coolant: there could be differences that cause some sorta conflict. Just what I've read.

 

Probably to allow for the fact that you won't end up with 100% new fluid in the system, unlike the factory fill.