Toyota Signal Mirrors

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(nyconrad @ Oct 30 2006, 04:58 PM) [snapback]340906[/snapback]</div>

Looking at the included instructions. They look as if they are for the Gen 1 Prius, and reference an 8P connector. I didn't pull down the Gen 1 sheets, but there is no 8P listed in the 2006 wiring diagram for Turn Signal subsystem. I take it nobody found a pre-wired signal harness in the door? Modern cars seem to always have the wiring pre-installed for these options to cut down on duplicate inventory.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(harrycw @ Oct 30 2006, 09:08 PM) [snapback]341061[/snapback]</div>

I've already said the harness/covers and instruction booklet is for a Toyota ISIS.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Inthewind @ Oct 30 2006, 09:15 PM) [snapback]341063[/snapback]</div>

And I can't still believe that the Asian assembled Prius is much different than ours.
Do we have any chinees resident in our forums that can confirm the wiring?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(harrycw @ Oct 30 2006, 09:08 PM) [snapback]341061[/snapback]</div>

I thought it just meant a 8 pin connector, not a connector 8P. The pin layout of the supplied harness matches the pin layout of the turn sig relay itself. Unless you can plug the turn sig relay into the harness and the harness to where the relay went, you are stuck with doing it similar to what mrbigh has shown. The wiring diagram on page 18 of the install instructions kind of show the relay going to the harness at circle A.

 

Below are photos of 2 installations - in both cases the yellow wire is the driver's side and the green wire is the passenger side. there are 2 wiring blocks (with black edges) that are side-by-side. The wiring for the signals are present on both blocks, but it appears that one block goes to the front signals and the other to the rear signals.

This is Horacio's original installation
[attachmentid=5546]

This is the second installation
[attachmentid=5547]


Below is a photo of the clip on the tweeter. When the cover is removed, sometimes the clip stays on the plastic, sometimes stays on the body of the door, and sometimes it drops behind the mirror (don't worry, you'll be removing the fmirror anyway, just make sure you find the clip). When popping back in the tweeter, make sure you put this clip on the plastic before you pop it back onto the door.
[attachmentid=5548]

Hope this helps everyone.

We'll also be updating instructions onthe mods page on the LIPOG website with any additional hints, tips and photos of this mod.

Anyone interested in doing this mod, don't be put off by the complexity. It really is a worthwhile mod, both for looks and safety.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(nyconrad @ Oct 31 2006, 10:29 AM) [snapback]341232[/snapback]</div>

To all those that do this mod: We succeeded in putting the cables through the rubber boot between the door and the frame on both installs this past weekend. The trick is to detach the boot from the door and work a stiff but flexible item ( I used a fairly heavy tie wrap) up thru the boot. It takes a little patience, but eventually you'll have that "Eureka" moment.

 

I'm surpried the metal clips on the tweeter housing came off. I've pulled mine off over twenty times each at least, and the clips never came loose.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DocVijay @ Nov 2 2006, 11:04 AM) [snapback]342496[/snapback]</div>

Hmmm... of the four tweeters we pulled off to do the 2 cars, 3 popped off and fell behind the mirror. It was no big deal since we had to remove the mirror housing anyway. Did yours stay on the plastic tab or stay in the hole in the door? The one that stayed in the door ending up popping out when we went to put the housing back on.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(nyconrad @ Nov 2 2006, 11:24 AM) [snapback]342558[/snapback]</div>

They stayed in the tweeter pod each and every time. And like I said, i pulled them off tons of times when installing the signal mirrors and also for the stereo install. Maybe I got the upgraded, reinforced type. I've also pulled the front and rear door panels off may times, and so far I've only had one of the plastic panel "plugs" stay in the dorr rather than the panel. THen again, I use a panel puller to do all my work (but not for hte tweeter pods).

Maybe the trick is to make sure you pull STRAIGHT out from the door. THen again, maybe I'm jsut that good...

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DocVijay @ Nov 2 2006, 02:19 PM) [snapback]342644[/snapback]</div>

I guess the crowbar we used didn't help the situation much either :blink:

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Inthewind @ Oct 29 2006, 10:49 AM) [snapback]340279[/snapback]</div>

Mine both fell off and I wasn't sure what they were for because they both hit the floor when I popped the tweeters out. One of the white posts came with the tweeter while one stayed in.

 

I'm wondering if those indicators that go on the mirror side would work well with this project.

http://www.kwmuth.com/products/kits/220-0056.htm

 

Ok, I started the install today but it quickly became too cold so I will have to finish the wiring run tomorrow. How come nobody mentioned what a PITA it was to run the LED wires thru the mirror pivot? Did I miss something? I thought running them down thru the door conduit was going to be the major hassle.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(harrycw @ Nov 4 2006, 04:56 PM) [snapback]343881[/snapback]</div>

Dude,
All you have to do is unscrew the three torx bolts to seperate the mirror from the pivot and it goes right through.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(harrycw @ Nov 4 2006, 04:56 PM) [snapback]343881[/snapback]</div>

After you take off the torx, just use a small phillips to make a channel through the taped wires. Should should have also gotten replacement torx screws encluded in the kit.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(nyconrad @ Nov 4 2006, 09:29 PM) [snapback]343957[/snapback]</div>

Also, remember to have the windows UP during the install. This makes it much easier to get the wires through from mirror thru the plastic seals on the door sides, and down into the door to the rubber flex tube going from the door to the car body. I covered getting the wires thru the tube in another posting.

Emile has the tool we made to get thru the rubber tube. Why don't you post a picture of this hi-tech device?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(syclone @ Nov 4 2006, 11:15 PM) [snapback]343987[/snapback]</div>

I'll dig it up and take a photo. We used a long tie-wrap, cut off the square end, drilled a tiny hole in that end and tied a wire through the hole to use as a pull . The tie-wrap is stiff enough, yet flexible enough to manuever through the boot - with a little patience.

 

Hey guys,

My Sigma mirrors (same ones DocVijay has) FINALLY came today! :lol: Although I haven't installed it yet (oh, and the darn instructions are in Japanese! :huh: ).

After examining the mirror pivot assembly, I finally concluded that it IS motorized! That is...it has an AUTO-FOLD feature as it obviously has a connector socket.

Now, here's an idea for those of us who have the same signal mirrors from Sigma:

Since many of the parts in the Prius are parts used in some of the high end Toyota cars...(i.e., Lexus), wouldn't the auto folding mirror in a lexus have the same connector cable that would hopefully fit the Sigma mirrors for the Prius? Just an idea. I would think that if I found the cable connector that fits in the socket of the mirror...it wouldn't be that difficult to get a factory button that would fit in one of the panels of the Prius. Thus, making the auto fold feature on the mirror functional for the Prius! <_<

Hey Doc, have you thought about this idea for your mirror too?

Vince.

 

Well, I finally installed my Sigma signal mirrors! It took me several hours over the weekend to finish the job. Thanks to DocVijay and EVnut's threads....of disassembling the door panels and dash....the installation went without a hitch!

The only difficult part of the job was threading the wiring through the rubber covering which protects the wires between the doors. I managed to perform this almost impossible feat by threading a stiff (thick gauge wire) wire through on end...and patiently manipulating it to the other side to the inside of the car. Then, by taping the end of the wires to the end of the guide wire, I pulled it through. Replacing the rubber boot was not hard at all. Now I have a very clean install!

I will post pics soon.

Vince.