Towing with Prius C

For sure, but I already have it in-hand, and a method by which to make it work, so I will keep mine.

Besides, the Curt T-tap wiring kit is the best one available for the Prius c.

 

You don't need to have them both for it to work in sync. .

 

There is a general approach to buying anything of value, "always buy the best in class", whenever possible.

In the specific case of the Prius c:

1) Best in class for trailer wiring kit is Curt 56275, whereas

2) best in class for trailer hitch kit is anything but Curt 11299X.

Learned this the hard way, for sure.

 

eBay it.

 

I recently examined the details of the Draw-Tite hitch for the current Yaris.

Draw-Tite has added recesses which presumably are there to avoid the reinforcing welds which Toyota has added to the rear bumper structure (as they have on my 2014-1/2 Prius c).

With these recesses, one per side for the Draw-Tite (two per side would be required for the Curt), the application of spacers would not be needed.

Draw-Tite's Prius c hitch does not have these recesses. Of course, Draw-Tite's advertising photos of its Prius c hitch could be of an older, pre-2014 model.

I came across some interesting text in the instructions for hitch installation, "If modifications are necessary for installation, do not use a torch," the strong implication being drilling, grinding or sawing is OK, but oxy-acetylene torch cutting is not OK.

 

Every site I checked stated that the Draw-Tite 24889 was intended for early Prius cs, only, but not for 2014 or 2015. Basically, it was stated to be a 2012 product.

Draw-tite's corporate site (draw-tite.com), however, states that the 24889 is for any Prius c, 2012 to current.

A further examination showed that Draw-Tite has indeed allowed for the reinforcing welds found on a late Prius c, but they are using a slightly different method than on their Yaris hitch. The Yaris hitch has notched sides; the Prius c hitch has tapered sides.

I have abandoned adapting the Curt, and have ordered a Draw-Tite. Assuming that I write-off the Curt, the extra $120 is chump-change when compared to the $18K total OTD cost of the car!

I will still be using the Curt T-connector, adapted for the 1/4" dia. battery terminal bolt. Curt used a yellow connector (12-10 AWG), but that is inappropriate for the 14 AWG wire which connects to the 12 volt battery. A blue connector (16-14 AWG) is necessary.

 

List the Curt on eBay.

Now Draw-Tite?

Why not an Eco Hitch?

 

The Eco-Hitch may be the best implementation in the eyes of some, but I'll be damned if I pay $265 for an unconventional hitch when a conventional hitch can be had for $115.

And, the 2" receiver option is just asking for an overload, and big trouble.

Best to stick with 1-1/4".

 

I got mine when they had there sale for $ 200 with the 1-1/4" as well.

1-1/4" hitchs are good till 3500lbs.

Are you planing on towing anything heavy? If not then Draw-Tite should be good.

Now your buying 2 hitchs. I would sell the Curt and just step up to the best.

 

The max will most likely be one of Horror Freight's 40 x 48 trailers which comes with a 1-1/4" mount and lights.


I have four projects in the frying pan for my 2014 c One:

1) trailer hitch (still undecided as to which one is best for me),

2) trailer lights wiring (for which the Curt P'n'P kit is the obvious choice),

3) left and right LED turn indicators (the ones which mount behind the mirrors),

4) Rostra cruise control using a Toyota controller (on order, expected in two days).


A comment on the Rostra C.C. kits:

These come as generic kits which apply to many Toyotas with automatic transmissions ... possibly as many as ten different Toyotas using the same kit.

The baggie of wiring harnesses actually contains more wires than are needed on a c One; the unused ones may be discarded.

 

The Trim one has the signal lights already right? I should also upgrade mine for safety as well.

 

I am advised that late 2014 cs, all trim levels, were provide with turn signal lights. Early 2014 c Ones may not have been so provided.

For those Ones with turn signal lights, a simple modification is to affix the LED arrays behind the mirrors and then wire into the turn signal light circuit on each side.

The item I purchased was Car Yellow LED Arrow Panel Rearview Side Mirror Turn Signal Indicator Light 4 | eBay . The price has since been raised from $7.59 to $7.99. Shipping from the Far East was free and the items arrived quickly.

The design of the arrays is such that each pair of LED elements are in series with a "431" resistor ("431" is electronics code for 4.3 x 10^1 = 430 ohms), the resistor being provided with each pair of LED elements to limit current and adapt to operation from a higher voltage.

Each board contains fourteen LED chips in seven pairs; one pair forms the arrow's head and the remainder form the arrow's tails.

I have tested the LED arrays on both 5 and 12 volts. The illumination is about the same on either voltage.

I am going to proceed by first unsoldering the supplied wires, which are too long and are too thin (about 30 AWG) to be crimped into the circuit and replace these with shorter wires which are about 20 or 22 AWG and will more reliably crimp.

Although the designer of the array could have provided for connection irrespective of polarity, this would have required extra printed circuit board space, and most probably the use of a two-layer board, at obvious greater manufacturing complexity and cost.

The old "could'a, would'a, should'a" conundrum.

I believe I can implement my preferred solution by soldering a diode bridge on the underside of the board, paying attention to the required "+" and "-" polarities, and then soldering 20 or 22 AWG pigtails to the "~" leads. In this way, the composite array will be polarity insensitive, and will be simple to integrate into the c One's existing circuits.

Verification that the array would work on less than 12 volts, 5 volts in my test case, proved that modification to incorporate a diode bridge would be successful.

 

Most probably the best choice for a bridge rectifier would be one from the RB15 series, such as ...

RB154 Bridge Rectifier 1 Items | eBay

... or higher PIV.

The spacing of the wire leads on the printed circuit board is 0.200", but the diagonal of a 0.220" square (the dimensions of an RB15 series bridge) is 0.311", so some lead bending will be required.

Alternately, the bridge could be remotely located, behind the mirror's frame.

 

Why not just put an LED pulb in the housing?

 

I tow up to 350 lb with my C; it is equipped with air lift shocks to make sure the C is level when driving.
my cohort looking over my shoulder says to tell you I've hauled my lawn tractor. he's right but for that the airlifts are mandatory. probably for the lightweight trailers from Lowes or tractor supply (mine) too.
a wheelchair certainly and probably not needing the shocks. wait the wheelchair is not powered by a V-8 is it ?
good luck.

 

lawyers at work, not engineers.

 

I think I can, I think I can , I THINK I CAN!!! JK

 

I just did a tow total weight of 1650lbs with me included.

When through the grapevine which is pretty tough on cars. Temps were 100f.

Engine temp 190-194f

Inverter went to 112f and dropped down.

Mg1 hit 262 then went down. It only spiked when I let off the throttle.

It was mostly in the 230-250f range when I was climbing.

Now here is the interesting part. On the way back I lost 1350lbs but temps were almost the same?

Mg1 hit 252f with the weight of two people?

Even under normal use mg1 does climb in temp.

 

Poor Mans Tent Trailer? I even fit in a normal parking spot

 

I have given up on towing with my Prius c ... too many gotchas.

I have purchased a very nice low mileage 2012 hatchback and will install a Curt hitch and T-connector kit on it.

My "Horror Freight" 870 pound capacity trailer is nearly completed.

I may switch to the 1090 pound capacity trailer for the Gen III Prius.