Timing Chain Replacement Interval

pretty much no need whatsoever for the average person.

loose chain sets a check engine light. you can thank than vvt-i for that.

typically (but not invariably) chain timed engines are interference timed. which is not the situation you want if a chain breaks (we know, we had a saturn once). he doesn't know off the top of his head if that's what the prius uses.

anyway the likelihood of breaking a chain is much lower than breaking a chain guide.

don't worry about the timing chain. worry more about your water pump belt.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(galaxee @ Oct 12 2006, 08:22 PM) [snapback]332104[/snapback]</div>

We have a belt? A water pump belt!!!! OMG now what am I to do!?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Mia @ Oct 12 2006, 08:15 PM) [snapback]332100[/snapback]</div>

You could do that in Montana just going to get groceries or to a movie in 3-4 years, all be it at 85 mph!

 

i was the second owner , i know for a fact the chain wasnt replaced, and it was running on stock water pump, the car was driving cross country, ( california to NJ a couple of times by hte previous owner ) he used to work at EWR and LAX, transferring every couple years or so, then my dad bought the truck off him for 700, we sold it last year for 1000 and made a profit, the guys who bought it was going to swap the 22RE for a 350 to go trek the forest for moonshine.

that truck was very strong no doubt, but i had to replace the thermostat, as it was stuck one day on 90+ degrees and blew all the hoses,very fun day.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Pinto Girl @ Oct 11 2006, 05:56 PM) [snapback]331476[/snapback]</div>

Hmmm. 2.3L Lima engine. Are we talking about the 2.3 that Ford used in the Temop/Topaz series for years? Ford had two 2.3L engines. The version with pushrods (or was that hydraulic lifters?) and a timing chain and the other with a belt and overhead cam. If the former, it may be an unremarkable engine, but it is awfuly solid and requires little maintenance. That can't be said for the fuel system or a number of the accessories that hang off the engine, but the block and valve train itself is very solid. I wasn't aware that it was a non-interferance engine, but I was aware that it used a multilink chain which Ford has no schedueled replacement cycle on. I know, I've asked and researched this on my own as I have a 1986 Topaz with 108,000 on it that I would like to keep on the road a bit longer.

As for unremarkable engines, usually the best engines are unremarkable. They are unremarkable for a reason, they don't need special attention. In spite of the 1nzfxe engine being what it is, Atkinson cycle through the valve timing and attached to a hybrid system, it will probably go down as an unremarkable engine in the grand scheme of things; becasue it will serve reliably and because it was derived from another proven design which in and of itself is unremarkable.

There are times unremarkable things are good.

 

My 86 toyota 22R engine is a chain and replacement interval is when it eats its way through the front cover because it is so loose. My 96 4Runner has a belt and is a non interferance engine and according to the dealer the belt should be replaced at 60.000. I called Toyota corporate and they said there is no specified replacement interval for that motor. I finally at 120,000 felt guilty enough to attack the belt. Guilt is overrated! Now I know why they said no specified interval. Man, that was one tough job. It took all weekend.
-Paul R. Haller-

 

The list below are the manufacturers' recommended intervals for timing belt replacement on domestic and imported cars and light trucks. These charts are for the purpose of routine maintenance that a friend of mine gave me when I asked him about the replacement interval of my Mazda timing belt. Hope this information would greatly help all of you guys whose been asking the same question about the replacement interval of your timing belt or as some says timing chain... God bless!!!

1. Manufacturer does not recommend a specific maintenance interval.

2. On 1996 & prior models, 90,000 miles or 72 months; on 1997 models, under normal conditions, 105,000 miles or 84 months (60,000 miles if vehicle is operated at ambient temperatures under -20'F or above 11O'F).

3. Under normal conditions, 105,000 miles or 84 months (60,000 miles if vehicle is operated at ambient temperatures under -20'F or above 11O'F).

4.When- ever the tensioner roller has been released, regardless of belt age or condition. After replace- ment, a label indicating the mileage & date that service has been performed should be affixed to the cylinder head cover.

5. On 1994 & prior models, 60,000 miles; on 1995-97 California models, 60,000 miles is recommended but not required; on all 1995-97 models, at 100,000 miles (if not previously replaced).

6. 1994 & prior models, intervals of 60,000 miles; on 1995- 97 Breeze, Cirrus, Stratus & Sebring Convertible models, 105,000-mile intervals is recom- mended but not required. On Avenger & Sebring (except convertible), Summit Wagon Talon California models, 60,000-mile intervals is recommended but not required. On all 1995- 97 Avenger, Sebring (except convertible), Summit Wagon & Talon models, at 100,000 miles (if not previously replaced).

7. On California models, 60,000-mile intervals is recommended but not required; on all models, replace at 100,000 miles (if not previously replaced).

8. On Breeze, Cirrus, Stratus & Sebring Convertible models, 105,000-mile intervals is recommend- ed but not required; on Avenger & Sebring California models (except convertible), 60,000- mile intervals is recommended but not required; on Avenger & Sebring models (except con- vertible), at 100,000-miles (if not previously replaced).

9. 60,000-mile intervals if vehicle operates under extensive idling, low-speed driving for long distances, on dusty, muddy or rough roads.

10. Timing belt must be replaced any time tension is relieved.

11. On 1996 & prior models, inspect & adjust belt at 30,000 and 60,000 miles; replace timing belt at 60,000 miles. On 1996 & later models, inspect & adjust belt at 30,000- and 60,000-mile intervals; replace timing belt at 100,000 miles.

12. On 1989 & prior models, manufacturer does not recommend a specific interval; on 1990-96 models, 90,000-mile intervals or 72 months; on 1997 models, under normal conditions, at intervals of 105,000 miles or 84 months (60,000-mile intervals if operated at ambient temperatures under -20'F or above 1 1 O'F).

13. On non-California mod- els, 60,000-mile intervals; on California models, inspect at 60,000-mile intervals and replace at 90,000-mile intervals.

14. On 1985 & prior models, manufacturer does not recommend a specific interval; on 1986-93 models, 60,000-mile intervals; on 1994-97 & later models, 105,000-mile intervals.

15. On early 1993 & prior models, 60,000-mile intervals; on late 1993 & later models less turbo, 105,000-mile intervals; on late 1993 & later models with turbo, 60,000-mile intervals.

16. Under normal operation, 45,000-mile intervals; check tension at 2000 miles, then every 15,000 miles.

17. Under normal operation, 60,000-mile intervals; check tension at 2000 miles, then every 15,000 miles.

18. On 1994 & prior models, manufac- turer does not recommend a specific interval; on 1995-97 California models, 60,000-mile in- tervals is recommended but not required; on all 1995-97 models, at 100,000 miles (if not pre- viously replaced).

19. On 1985 & prior models, 40,000-mile intervals; 1986-94 & later models, 50,000-mile intervals; 1995 & later models, 100,000-mile intervals.

20. Inspect every 15,000 miles.

21. On 1993 & prior models, replace at 60,000-mile intervals; on 1994 & later models, manufacturer does not recommend a specific maintenance interval.

 

And all that is relevant to a Prius... how, exactly? But thanks for sharing :_>

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(richard schumacher @ Jun 16 2007, 04:40 PM) [snapback]463116[/snapback]</div>

It's not at all relevant to the Prius, but hey, sometimes it's nice to be reminded why I won't
ever again buy a car with a timing belt.

 

I have no doubt that if the timing chain needed replacement on a regular interval, it would be included in the maintenance schedule in the owners manual.

Now for a funny story. I once owned a 1987 Hyundai Excell AKA a Poney Car (Hope Pinto Girl can relate).

It was up around 80,000 and the maintenance schedule said to change the timing belt every 60,000 as I recall, could be different. Anyway, I was a cheap person, so I called a dealer and confirmed that if the belt broke, the valves and pistons would not collide. Then I said to myself, no problem, I will jsut drive it until it breaks.

What I forgot. You have probably already though of it. I had no idea where I would be when it broke. I worked 15 miles from my house, and it broke about 0.1 miles from work. Then the realization hit me. I cannot exactly tear apart the engine in someone else's front yard. Luckily for me, I had a friend with a tow dolly he used to tow his car behind his motorhome. He saved me.

 

Your mileage may vary.

A smart addition to hybrids would be an hour meter for the engine itself.

Many miles are driven without the assistance of the gas powered engine. While the odometer racks up mileage, the engine may be silent. One person driving 100,000 miles on the odometer may have 95,000 on the engine while another, due to driving habits, may only have 50,000 on the engine.

The belt or chain replacement recommendation from the factory should be indicated in hours of actual engine use, not miles on the clock.

Just a thought.

RG

 

The timing chain should be a none-issue for the Prius. A lot of earlier domestic V8's had problems with short timing chain life due to how cheaply the chain set was made.

Quite a few small blocks were cranked out with nylon teeth on the crank sprocket. Although touted as a means to reduce noise, I think it was to reduce cost, as the sprocket could be made just as a round metal disk with the nylon teeth ring slipped on.

I purchased new a 1984 Ford F-150 with 302 V8, and in 1985 when I put in the Crane RV cam, I put in a double roller chain set. No difference in noise that I could tell. The stock chain set already had a lot of wear on the nylon teeth.

Once the nylon teeth wear enough, it's easy for the chain to jump and your timing is way off. That doesn't apply to the Prius.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Godiva @ Oct 12 2006, 10:02 PM) [snapback]332094[/snapback]</div>

I specifically asked whether the car had a belt or chain when I bought mine and was told it had a chain and replacement was not a scheduled service. I think it would raise a red flag if significant numbers of people were having to replace the chain, but I have not heard of anyone having to do it. Has anyone else?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ekpolk @ Oct 11 2006, 02:55 PM) [snapback]331283[/snapback]</div>

Yes this is the trend. In addition the new 5.7L in the Tundra is a chain. With improvments in technology and manufacturing the trend is definitely back to all chains.

At present here in NA
..all 4c Toyota's use chains,
..all the new GR V6's use chains
..the new 5.7L in the Tundra uses a chain

The only vehicles that still have belts are..
..the 3.3L V6 Solara
..the 3.3L V6 Highlander ( till next month when it goes to the GR V6 )
..the 3.3L HH which will still use the old 3.3L until further notice.
..the 4.7L in the Sequoia's, Tundra's and 4Runners

The timing chains should never have to be replaced or serviced.

 

We all know that earlier cars with chains needed replacement before the 100K mile mark, my 87 Buick GN had the nylon timing chain gears which I replaced as soon as I bought the car, my old Toyota 22R motor rattled like crazy at 90K miles so also got replaced with complete kit including the timing cover :angry: The timing chain motors are noisy compare to timing belt but the chain is more reliable that's probably why everyone is going back to chains and much have been improved to minimize noise, I have no complaints and love my Tundra 4.0 and Prius which are both chain driven.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mike m @ Jun 20 2007, 07:19 PM) [snapback]465487[/snapback]</div>

I still have the factory timing chain set for my 1984 Ford F-150 out at the hobby farm. When I go out on Friday, I'll dig it out and take a photo.

A lot of folks were suprised at how quickly they wore. The nylon teeth on the crank sprocket were purely a cost-cutting move. I have never detected any difference in noise level with a small block running the cheap nylon teeth sprocket vs a proper double roller chain set. The gear drives are entirely different, they make a low moan or whine noise depending on rpm

Believe it or not, you can actually convert most small blocks to timing belts. Not sure why anybody would want to, but the option in there. The extra stress of driving a distributer/oil pump and usually a fuel pump would probably mean short life for the belt.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jayman @ Jun 20 2007, 06:39 PM) [snapback]465498[/snapback]</div>

I've seen the kits when I was racing SBC and BBC engines but never bothered since they were too pricey and my car was not a all out drag car.


On another note, I did the timing belt on my wife's Turbo Beetle before I traded it for the Prius, at 65K miles the water pump bearing did not sound so good, so I replaced it, also, another reason was that VW uses plastic water impellers which fail prematurely causing it to overheat and possibly blow a head gasket, should have been recalled :angry:

So for me the chain does the job well and no plans to pull it apart till I have 150K miles on the Prius than check for play and guide wear.

 

Just a quick thought.... the 3.3 liter V-6 Toyota engines and the 4.7 liter V-8 are all interference engines. If the timng belt breaks valve damage is likely to occur. (Although from experiance I can say it is not definite) Prius, in my opinion, will have less likelyhood of problems with timing chains since they don't actually allow driver control of the engine. Just remember the Golden Rule #1. CHANGE YOUR OIL AT REGULAR INTERVALS!!!!

 

do you think doing "hot oil flushes" or using synthetic oil keeps the timing chain healthy? or just making sure the oil is never contaminated?

 

Actually, maintain proper oil level is the key to have a healthy chain.
Cleaner oil won't hurt of course.....