The overtight oil filter catridge cap......It's not the dealer's fault.

Doesn't matter what the manual says. There is a BETTER tool, and correct one. Toyota does make mistakes. Like all of us.
Correct tool for the job....

 

30 or 40, not on mine though, but on other Toyota's.
The guy next to me was fighting with it with his "Toyota" tool, but eventually got it off.
So our service manager went to Toyota and asked them about the tool. And they told him about other tool.
It was so much easier and I never had a problem removing a housing. I did have to use a 3/4 inch breaker bar a
few time because someone over tightened it.
You need to remove the tap that clicks into place that is supposed to keep the housing from unthreading.
Then the tool fits good. The tool "should" press it out of the way, but it just doesn't seem to work very well.
It's easy to remove it then re-install it after installing the housing.
Everyone is free to use whatever tool and/or means they choose to remove the housing.
I prefer to use the easiest and simplest way, and the correct tool for the job.

 

ASRDogman, thank you so much for sharing that it conflicts with the metal piece. I do not know how to remove it. Manual does note not to tamper with it/remove it.

I would have switched to spin on, except the iQ can’t be switched as far as I can tell. (It looks different). And then I’d need two different tools and different filters. (I just installed a Fram Ultra for the Prius v into the iQ)....

 

Keep posting and the privileges will come!!

[sarcasm font] I think that it was the hair in the photo that led to your trouble. [/sarcasm font]

Good info on the G3's oil cartridge foibles.
So just to be clear on this, there currently is NOT a canister filter that will fit the G3???
How close is the one for the G4?

'My' G3 is a work car, so for all I know it might still have the OEM filter after 145,000 miles but I'm keeping my knowledge on the XW30 as up-to-date as possible given the likelihood that I might be forced back into the world of hyper-commuting.
The G1 Pips are a real bargain in the used car world and with everybody clubbing up to Primes and BEVs they're on sale.

PERFECT candidate for a beater/project car!!!

 

I had forgotten they put that clip on it. And I had a hard time laying on my back trying to get the tool on.
If you tighten the housing to the correct torque, it won't come off.
If I had a lift and the car was in the air, I'm certain it would be a lot easier.
Next time I change my oil I'll try to remember to take a photo or video and post it. Unless someone else does it sooner.

 

I'm using a Honda oil filter socket, nothing fancy, no extensions down onto the stiffeners. It's the standard Honda automotive oil filter size. Careful measurement with a caliper, I get 64.4 mm, inside face-to-face (14 flute).

You can use it with a 3/8" ratchet wrench (which I do), or with a 17mm socket or wrench.They used to use a larger diameter filter, and this small one was for their motorcycles. Then they went to the same filter size.

It works fine, does not touch the little clip, I guess because it does not extend down that far. I've actually forgotten that clip is even there: it does nothing. The Honda socket is a snug fit when you push it on, can be a little reluctant to pry off. Unfortunately does not have a little opening to help pry it off. I find just levering it a bit with an extension on it, it usually comes loose.

The last time I took off the oil filter, the O-ring had jumped the groove, was down to the end. A first for me. Still nothing leaked. I'll be checking it at next oil change, in two~three weeks. I will be very vigilant this time around. I've just noted this in the oil change instruction, not sure how much it effects, but yeah:



Maybe that "90 degrees" matters, who knows: I will try to do that next time. And not sure what they mean by "temporarily". The instruction to make sure the O-ring does not get caught betwee the parts seems the best plan. That and ensure the O-ring is not twisted, has lots of fresh oil.

As far as "effort" to remove or install the filter: I've done all the oil changes myself (about 15, every 6 months basically), since factory, and have always torqued to 18 foot/pounds (spec). It always takes a bit of oomph to get it started unscrewing, and continues to resist until the O-ring finally screws out of the barrel. I'm using an extra long wrench, maybe 18", and that makes it pretty easy.

 

Who put the filter on the time before, and did they do 18 foot/pound torque?

I'm toying with the conversion to cannister oil filter, but think I'll hold off. I've never had an issue breaking it loose. However I am concerned if the O-ring continues to get mispositioned during install. I should check what the parts for conversion would cost locally through a dealership; I'll be in there in a week or two. Not sure I want to know...

What I do like about the current filter-only setup: much easier on the recycle stream. The cannister filters are a complicated mess of metal, rubber, paper, used oil, not so good.

 

It's been quite easy for me to remove and reinstall oil filter consistently. Method is screw the oil filter back on with hand, then use 3/8" ratchet. Slowly turn oil filter until it actually comes to a stop. Before filter physically stop turning, you will hear some friction sliding. When oil filter stops turning, that's tight enough. No torque wrench needed.

No oil leaks when I do that, and removing filter never fails with my $4.99 oil filter removal cap from China.

 

A few things, three from Mendel’s post (thank you for posting the excerpt)!

1. Remove the old o-ring by hand, no tool that can possibly damage the cap.

2. Clean the areas well, both engine and cap side

3. Oil the new o-ring before installing into groove on cap

4. Re-oil o-ring before installing the filter into the engine

5. Temporarily hand tighten the cap until it bottoms out, but do not concurrently/immediately tighten it to spec.

6. Take torque wrench to tighten to 25 Nm or 18 ft lbs. I was going to crack a joke that you’re all off using 18 ft lbs as this is a Japanese car that uses metric units, but I go by Nm personally....

Every canister type filter I work with where the entire cap screws in has spec of the form XX + Y Nm, meaning you first torque to XX, then XX + Y. Here it notes hand tighten temporarily and then to 25 Nm. I’m a weakling and need a wrench to get the filter housing to bottom out, so I use a wrench. Then I switch to a torque wrench and torque it down. (Torque wrench is inconveniently long to turn to bottom out anyways).

 

Did I mention I installed the Toyota alarm on the Prius v myself? And did I also mention that the instructions are so detailed that they include specific locations on where to install the wire ties?

Yes, I’ll try to follow their FSM instructions to a “T”....

 

Dorman products makes an aluminum replacement Toyota filter cap. 917-036 I believe is the part number. That would cure the expansion of the OE phenolic cap. I’m waiting on Frankenstein’s oil change to change mine over. That should happen the end of next month, just before the cold sets in.

 

cnc97, the thread does not look quite the same between the Prius’ plastic and the iQ’s metal. I do not think they are interchangeable. Is this a Prius specific replacement?

Thanks for sharing!

 

I've tried without success to do that, lol. I just use a small, flat-blade screwdriver, very carefully.

 

Funny, on the iQ there is a little cut out section on the ridge, specifically for you to be able to grasp the gasket with your fingers, but on the Prius I see no reference to such a gap. I believe one time I did use some tool and risked damaging the cap. Last time I think I pulled off the nitrile glove from my hand. (I’ll let you guys know if it wasn’t worth it if I get skin cancer on my fingers/hands).

 

Indeed. The photos kindly posted by @ASRDogman show what appears to be a copy of the Kyoto Tool Co. AVSA-R64A wrench, which has slots to fit over the ribs on the outside of the filter cap. It’s described at the bottom of page 393 (PDF, in Japanese) of KTC’s Catalog No. 39 and in an instruction manual (PDF, also in Japanese). Mutsuura Honten Co., Ltd., offers them on Rakuten for ¥4633 plus shipping.

Readers of this thread may also be interested in my notes on the recent filter design change.