Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

It broke down on a test drive and he’s still walking home? (Heavy sarcasm intended)

I hope things turn out fine.

 

it runs, well RAN great....I ran it in maintenance mode for at least an hour while finishing almost all the B-S...it had no problems. went on the test run. the water temp light started blinking within 4 or 5 minutes. I eased off the accelerator and coasted about 100 yards, then the light went out. I drove it home, about 22 miles @ speeds up to 70 mph for 15 of the miles, no problem...I get home, my wife is soooo happy! she takes off, comes back sad, the temp light came on. I limp it back to the shop, 22 miles, @ 35-50 mph on this trip. the temp light starts flashing and if I stay in the throttle then it will stay on solid...hint to back off I suppose. both fans are coming on, this blows my mind. probably going to put the old thermostat assy. back on, since they had "just replaced it". and re-test...unless there are other known suspect problems to be identified, or checked first..
ALL of you are "worthy" of the results. probably was just too embarrassed, at the time, of failure.....but I got over it!
There's a lot more to tell but not till I get rid of this DAMN light....

 

If you have an IR thermometer, might not be a bad idea to shoot the block with it to verify if the block itself isn't getting hot causing the light or it being a sensor. I would bet just an electrical thing since taking foot off the accelerator seems to be better. Knowing your block isn't overheating would give you peace of mind.

 

Or air pockets in the cooling system, yet to be worked out?

 

Try another coolant temperature sensor from the old engine and see what happens

 

ok, so everything but the thermostat....
spiralhelix, what is the temp that I should be looking for at the block, near the temp sensor? (I HAVE NO PEACE, WITH THIS, YET!)
mendel, I wish there was an air bleed screw on this HIGH TECH MACHINE. it's like they skipped the basics, on purpose no doubt!!!
Dxta, is there one or two sensors for water temp, on this engine?

 

Let the car cool several hours. Open the bleeder on the heater hose. Open the top of the reservoir. Push power button twice WITHOUT pushing the brake pedal. Turn heater on vent, max temp, max fan. Then push brake and push power to turn car on. Watch bleeder for air/coolant. When a solid stream of coolant comes out, close the bleeder. Then top off tank and close the tank. Run until fan cycles off.

If you have a scan tool that can read data PID’s, watch the coolant temp. Anything more then 220-225 at idle in park is use caution. Anything more then 240 turns the light on. If you have both the original water pump and the pump off the replacement engine, swap them out and see what happens.

 

damn, i was hoping you wouldn't call me out to answer that! but here is a thread that says it.

if you don't want to read: ~180ºF normal, over 200ºF not normal.

 

Now if the sensor or wiring is bad, is it possible that the computer would read/display the wrong temp? i concur with swapping out the the old parts though.

Reading the actual block temp has been hammered into me on my boat forums to determine if the Raw Water Pump has failed or if the sensor/gauge has failed. "noob: HELP my engine is overheating. forum vet: Get an IR temp of the block" . I see that about 100 times a year. LOL

 

There are two sensors. One reporting coolant temp for fan control, one reporting coolant temp for engine operation. If a sensor is unplugged or defective, it’s an immediate check engine light. I left one unplugged when I did my swap.

 

This is very common. Two things you must know 1) the temp light flashes at 240 degrees 2) temp light is solid at 250 degrees.
Coolant boils at 270ish. I've figured there's no real danger for at least 10 minutes of the light coming on and staying on. It never comes on and stays on for more than 5 minutes. Keep it topped off and CNC97 is right about the air pockets. The thermostat has to open but it has to get hot to open and it won't get hot if the coolant doesn't flow over it.
It takes about a week of driving it to see it go away for good.

It's much worse when it's cold out!

 

wish I knew what that looked like....I see a hard black plastic piece coming up near, what looks like a temp sensor, about 2" tall, 3/4" in diameter, is that it, if so is the bleeder inside?

 

Does the temp sensor become the bleeder valve in 2012? Just unscrew the temp sensor a little to bleed?

Pixel XL ?

 

On my 2010, there is a 1/2” diameter white head straight slot screw. About 1/2” long. That’s the bleeder. It’s next to the temp sensor on the small upper hose on the EGR cooler.

 

You could pull off one of the small coolant hoses atop the EGR cooler, see if you can get some air out, then push the hose back on as coolant start coming out. There's a chance that coolant would just start coming out immediately, but who knows. Those hoses are right where the bleed valve was, so disconnecting one would do the same function I think.

Might help to also unbolt the reservoir, and raise it some, say hang from the hood latching tang, beforehand.

Addendum:

Oh wait a sec: @poppie has a 2011, yeah should have that bleed screw. It was discontinued in 2012 I believe. There's a little spigot on it too, so you can hook up a tube if you want.

 

air pockets, I hoped so. that makes the most sense, even more so than the thermostat I was figuring on... I had ran the machine, I know for at least an hour w/coolant tank hanging from winch hook, on high heat, high fan...assumed (nice person out of - well, just me) that it was good.
thanks cnc97 & others for leading me in the hopefully, the correct direction. I removed the heater hose @ the egr, to gain enough access to the temp sensor to loosen it (per mjoo, thank you) when I removed the hose, absolutely NO coolant came out, should have been full( red flag alert). put unit into maintenance mode with high heat & fan again, engine ran for a good 2-3 minutes before any coolant came out, but lots of AIR to boot. reinstall the hanging tank and topped off, double checked all connections and clamps, etc.. 22 mile test drive time now (with NO WALKING HOME! cnc97 ) and hopefully a great nights sleep with no worries....thanks again.

 

GOOD MORNING, last night test run revealed temp light flashing 5-8 times then would go off, this happened 8 or 9 times within 22 miles, no solid light. = more . this morning drive in had no lights at all = . before I leave work tonight though, I will again pull that sensor out and try to remove any existing air pockets that might be accumulating. this is my set-up I have to work with on a 2011.

 

On the hose connector that’s shown, there’s no white cap directly opposite the nipple pointed to the sky? On mine, that’s exactly where the bleeder cap is.

 

"alrighty then", expounding time of rounds 11-15... I installed my pipe, installed the fuel rail, which is A LOT EASIER than the removal...I back-flushed with garden hose spray nozzle, then with compressed air, the heater-core & catalytic exchanger thingy, (thank you ragingfit). The EGR, you might wonder, did it ever come clean?
Yes it did, but cleaning all those individual pieces that were also attached to it was a time consuming nightmare. I WAS NOT going to install them dirty the least bit. How did the egr valve testing go? well I attempted to power it up, to make it actuate, but was unsuccessful, so I trusted the ohm tests and they all passed, so I went with it, I had no reasonable alternative. Then moved to the dreaded egr/wire interference problem.....I looked at it and thought "give it clearance" so I removed the egr, clamped it in a vice and ground it down a bit till I was happy... Hooked up/routed the hoses, dipstick tube, cut the hose for "T", tightened down the egr...
For anyone wandering, YES,IT'S FINGERNAIL POLISH, ALL OVER THIS ENGINE, HOSES, BOLTS, ETC.... I have a wife & 4 daughters, I've a plethora of colors, makes for less of a confusing re-assembly...."y'all" must remember, this is my FIRST auto engine R&R, and at times I was sinking, and would have drowned if it hadn't been for you members out there and the ragingfit…. I still feel a little DAMP though!
Oh yea, I almost forgot this little PROBLEM! After 20 minutes or so, of fighting these ex. bolt/springs combo, I remembered what my grandfather would tell me "You've got to be smarter than what you're working with!" WOW, did I fell dumb! its a bolt and spring!
Round 14 went fairly smooth, other than that retarded oil filter set-up, isn't there a spin-on replacement yet for this B-S?
Round 15 was all good till I had to start up the machine....as stated this unit has sat, being "mowed around" for almost 2FREAKINGYEARS. I entered maintenance mode, only to see the dash light up like a Christmas tree, every freaking light it had was on...including the dreaded "triangle of death". it was 5:15am , sooo pissed. I undo the neg on 12 v battery. same result. get the scanner to clear all codes, it goes crazy, every indicator lights-up on it as well, it can't even clear the codes!
Now what do I do grandpa? "get smarter" he would have said. so I went back to part "1" for review, hybrid battery disconnect, slide out orange lever, flip lever, remove orange connector... go slide in the orange lever, Jason....so I did, and all was good. engine ran, sounded great, gurgling coolant tank, the works. This is an "emotional nightmare" to say the least...I let this engine run for at least an hour, the sun is coming up now.. I have lots to do to get the unit drivable. I have a coolant leak at the thermostat on the radiator hose connection. Surprisingly, I couldn't get it to stop without sliding the spring clamp toward the thermostat and installing a screw type band clamp on it. I then decided it was a good idea to just leave the lower engine covers off for inspections later, so I did. Tires on, unblocked, fired up fork lift moved several atv/utvs to make an escape route. Put everything back, shut down, locked up, placed BIG piece of packing paper on wife's seat for my nasty _ _ _, backside. and drove away thru town @ 30 mph. Then I sped up to 40, the noise from under the car was terrible, I pulled over to find myself going back to shop to install those under-GARMENTS. Now it's 8:30 and 82 degrees. Jacks, dollies, blocks, creeper, 10mm, batt. impact.... Under I go, had to use 9 Yamaha plastic rivets (which work better) in-the-stead of the Christmas trees that was either missing or the "limbs" were ripped off, to reattach garments. put EVERYTHING away, locked back up, which pisses me off !!!! Back in the cockpit, in front of the Awesome A/C, driving 45-50 with no noises, but a temp light or two, then goes off within 2 miles, & no more for the 22 mile trip home. The rest you know to this point, "And that's the way it is!" said Paul Harvey.

 

I recall reading on another make's forum of people using a pressurized device to fill the HVAC system and prevent air pockets. Any radiator shop should have one.