Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

The codes for misfire reported here are mostly the other end, cyl 1, or 2. You have cleaned the intake previously? It’s at least the easiest thing to check first.

 

So unplugging the EGR made the misfire go away it would suggest the misfire issue is in there right?

 

No clue here, sorry.

 

At what speed is it misfiring? Normally the egr is closed at startup and low speeds. An open egr when the engine is not warmed up or is under low load could cause misfires.

A clogged egr "might" cause pinging but normally the knock sensor would compensate.

 

it is random but normally at high speed or when accelerating. Also it happens once the car has warmed up 10 to 15 min into a drive if speed is constant no issue so normally accelerating, high speed or load like going up hill.

 

A diagnostician usually hopes to change just one thing at a time, trying to isolate the effect of what was changed.

That just isn't possible with unplugging the EGR valve, because the ECM detects that you did, and changes other things like the ignition timing because you did, so multiple things have been changed at once.

 

Understood.

 

So changed my water pump it was very stiff to turn so it was on its way out for sure. while there I removed the intake and found it was indeed clogged I never noticed the little ports they are smaller than a dime geez. anyway filled it with degreaser and will let it soak overnight.
I will reconnect it tomorrow night crossing my fingers that this has been my issue the whole time. Cant believe I missed those little bastards.
Mind you everything else was spotless. I did install and oil catch can and my god so much oil in it and i have not even driven more than 200 miles. I got at least a drop and a half.

 

I ran my 2012 Prius v with the egr disconnected for about 50,000 miles, and it never ran better. The egr motor goes bad. You cannot fix the egr motor by taking it apart, cleaning and lubricating it. It goes bad and that's it. Unplug it until you can replace it with one that works. I took mine back to the dealer for their EGR recall and they refused to replace it so I unplugged it and it was fine.
Millions of people unplug their EGR's. Google it! It's a thing!

What is an EGR delete? | Park Muffler Radiator Brakes & Tires

- Fix That Prius !!!

 

I've been meaning to ask/post about this in a separate thread, but seeing this has reminded me now:
Why haven't I seen any YT vids or forum posts showing a real EGR Delete hardware/software option like I see on many Ford and Chevy vehicles?!

Doesn't having the EGR disconnected throw CEL's and have the Prius' running rough? Pretty much the majority of posts I've seen on this forum and others seem to indicate the Prius EGR being an extremely integral part of how this car runs, unlike others.

 

I wrote this in March of 2019

I will explain what happened to your Prius.
Faulty oil rings allow oil into your combustion chambers or cylinders. Carbon builds up on your pistons and the cylinder head reducing the space between them. Torque to yield head bolts "yield" and open a gap between your head and engine block sending buckets of coolant through your exhaust. Oil-laden exhaust travels through your EGR and EGR cooler clogging them with carbon / soot. Known bad EGR hangs open causing "driveability problems" - rattle, chug, stalling in low-speed situations. This accounts for all of your symptoms.
Now what to do about it.
If your car was just running poorly you could unplug or replace your EGR and your driveability problem would go away.
But you have a bad head gasket too.
You can replace the head gasket but your bad oil rings will cause deja vu in about 80,000 miles.
To fix your car you must replace the oil rings, the EGR and the head gasket. I did that once but I'm not a good engine re-builder. The result was not good for me but others have done it - danlatu and CNC97 - with good results.
I replaced engines on two different 2012 Prius v's with 2016 Prius engines. Others have also done this too - Apatel1101 and Joele3 .
Apatel1101 reports that the dealer won't work on his car now that he's swapped his engine (he's got some ABS problems, I think) and Joele3 has reported overheating issues, but I think that was because his water pump went bad. My 2012 Black v has a bad cat thanks to Barr's Leaks and my Gray v is overheating due to a clogged heater core, probably also Barr's Leaks, go figure.
Modifications must be made to hook up the coolant hoses and EGR cooler. The old flywheel and engine mount must go on the new engine. The temp sensor wire has to be lengthened and 2 ground wires relocated. I think that's it. Everything else is the same or better than the old.
- Fix That Prius !!!

 

Prius's run great w/o the EGR. No need for a "delete" Just unplug it!
-Fix That Prius !!!

P.S. With my new engines, the EGR's are connected and functioning. No need for the delete.

 

The CEL stayed lit for those 50k miles though right?

 

Yes, but the car ran perfectly. If you want the CEL to go out, Replace the EGR. It's the EGR motor that malfunctions. People have choices to make. I made mine.
- Fix That Prius !!!

 

In general, EGR delete kits are marketed for diesel vehicles. EGR in a diesel is an emissions win but takes a hit on MPG, and so the delete kits can find a profitable market of people who resent emissions mandates that impair their MPG, and will buy kits to flout the mandate.

On a spark-ignited gasoline engine, EGR is both an emissions win and an MPG win, so the only market for a "delete kit" would be the much smaller fraction of people who'd be so resentful of emissions mandates that they'd reduce their own MPG just to flout them (as well as risk their head gaskets, according to one school of thought on PriusChat). Or people who are imitating their diesel-driving buddies without realizing how the technology makes a difference. There don't seem to be as many businesses thinking they could turn that into a profitable market for some reason.

What exactly goes bad about a permanent magnet unipolar stepper motor that isn't fixed by cleaning and lubricating it? How did you determine that was what had happened? Do you have some of these bad motors around you could send me?

 

when I did my test on disconnecting the EGR it ran great.......until I got a check hybrid system and the engine shut down on the freeway.
I pulled over cleared he code plugged egr back in and car ran fine again but with the misfire which I have now found to be atributed to a plugged on #2 port causing #4 to suck in more than its share and misfiring due to its proximity to the eger pipe.

 

I replaced my water pump and now getting p261c this is a gen 4 water pump is this gen 3 not ok with this pump? Do I need To do something special? I checked fused it is Good. Suggestions?

 

P261C means an improperly low voltage on the water pump tachometer circuit (NWP/WPI), as you might see if a short were pulling it toward ground somewhere. Go through the voltage checks for P261C in the manual?

Here's some info in another thread about how the WPO and WPI circuits work.

 

Thanks not sure what most of the means. I swapped my engine for a gen4 I replaced the pump as the one it came with failed. So I have my old good gen 3 pump and my thinking is clear codes plugin gen 3 pump(not install just plugin) and run car briefly watch pump making sure it's spins. If codes don't return this would suggest I got a bad new pump. Does this logic make sense?

 

Might make that work, if that's what you consider easier. I'd be cautious about running the pump dry, though, even just briefly to check; I'm pretty sure the coolant is what lubricates it. Not sure how long you might need to run it to see if codes return. It's also possible that running outside the coolant loop, it would run too fast and produce a P148F.