Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

yeah, it seems Johnny and I are fighting nagging little issues after install.
On yours, I am thinking maybe its something simple as spark plugs or coils or a loose connector? You did say the engine appeared to have sat for a while?

I am still battling Overheating issues- even the AirLift system didn't fix it- the main hoses do feel more sturdy with fluid in them this time around, but I barely got out of the neighborhood before hitting 230F+
I'll play around with lifting the front of the car up, squeezing and fiddling with the AirBleed valve.
I'm sick of this Turd Gen and am seriously thinking about selling it and DD'ing my F again

 

Why don't you spend a minute and type out a numbered list of what you have under the hood and where it came from?

For example:
Block 20yz Prius z gen
Head 20xy Prius x gen
Intake 20xx Prius y gen
Waterpump...
Etc

Seems odd that you are haunted by the ghost of an engine... that your mechanic can't see...

How much of this Prius mismash did your mechanic do?

 

Sorry about that.

I have a gen 4 engine in a gen 3 prius
kept everything only replacement was the engine. everything else egr intake etc was kept.
Mechanic advised that when it starts to misfire to disconnect the egr as he thinks likely the problem.
So I did and indeed misfire went away. so I had cleaned the EGR prior to head gasket and engine replacement. This includes the intake, that being said anyway to tell if the electric motor is going bad on the EGR? I will be cleaning the EGR cooler again this weekend I pressure washed the intake last weekend so it is clean for sure. all the remain is the pipe, cooler and motor. Am I missing anything on the intake it is my understanding each intake port has its on tunnel shall we say.

 

Maybe the pump is bad as I got a new one but did not install it. cooling issue was gone until tonight got the P261b so I will replace it this weekend. Now for your cooling How i fixed mine is I filled it from the EGR cooler the top part of it use a small funnel and fill it till it over flows.
then connect hose remove bolts from reservoir tanks and use a bungee cord to attach it to the hood latch and keep it high. I also put the car on roll up rams lifting it even higher. then running it in maintenance mode for like 30 min.

so recap.

1.rollup ramps
2.fill coolant from EGR cooler (makes the coolant fill from the highest point)
3.after lift resurvoir with bungee cord and hang it an run in maintenance mode (MONITOR JUST IN CASE)
4.TEST DRIVE SHOULD BE GOOD or your pump or thermostat is bad could be jigle pin may need to cut it off.

 

Pm me Maybe I can help

 

Yes, I may now have to start looking at the new OEM Gen4 waterpump and new OEM Thermostat:
Did some more squeezing and AirValve bleeding last night. This morning I took her for a drive to my son's house to get him ready for school and I parked it in Maint Mode w Heater on full blast for around 30 mins. I can see that temps hovered around 180-190F.
Drove over to BoJ drive through before work, and on the way back-on a hilly road, she went up past 230, all the way up to 245 (where I now saw the Temp Light flash briefly) to around 250, to when I coasted easy for a bit until she came back down to around 210.

Slowly pulled it into the garage to where I hear a new loud noisy hum. I leave it on and pop the hood and can hear the waterpump making a noise I've never heard before since the install 250 miles ago:

Still no pending or active CEL's to give me clues...

 

mine sounds like that I got the code last night. I say swap it out it don't sound right.

 

unplug the egr

 

So you have a gen4 block and gen4 head in your 2010. The exhaust, intake and egr are from the old gen3 engine?

No gen4 head removal or internal work like timing chain?

The gen4 water pump and thermostat is on the gen4 engine?

No egr mods at all, it still picks up exhaust before the cat?

The gen3 egr cooler was clean and the old egr valve was reused?

 

It's an engine swap only. All gen three exhaust egr and Intake. I Took it to the mechanic and was told what Ragingfit suggested disconnected egr and missfire went away. So I will be cleaning it this weekend.

 

Disconnecting the EGR has far-reaching effects. The ECM can tell right away that it's electrically disconnected, and reacts with adjustments, including how it controls ignition timing. So the effects on how the engine runs are not just the effects of less EGR. Has to be interpreted cautiously for that reason.

 

for this purpose it confirmed that the misfire is related to EGR circuit. That bein said any way to test the EGR valve itself?

 

What confirmed it?

The valve is a run-of-the-mill six-terminal step motor. You can do some combination of visual (is it closed when it should be closed?) and electrical (what happens as you command it so-many-steps-open in Techstream) tests for some indication of its function. You could test it on the bench with a step motor driver circuit.

 

Regardless of Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve flow, there could be a localized blockage in one of EGR “capillary” passages (one per port) in the intake manifold. So you have “acceptable” flow, but near-nil exhaust gas getting to one or more combustion chambers.

I think in your case the intake manifold is already cleaned though?

 

Im not that familiar with techstream. It confirmed that when I unplugged the EGR the misfire went away. So I think I need to inspect the EGR cooler, valve, pipe and intake again to make sure not obstructions.

 

Nothing wrong with checking that. Just keep in mind that when you unplugged the EGR you also changed the ignition timing, etc., so the misfire may have gone away for any of those reasons.

 

Well I moved plugs and coils around and put in new fuel injectors misfire persists on #4. The tech I took it to explained it is likely the EGR but I just cleaned it not 3 months ago. this is a gen 4 engine in a gen 3 everything from the gen three is in play except the engine. intake egr pipe and valve all from gen three. I will be pressure washing the EGR cooler over the weekend. IT is my understanding that the #4 being the closest to the EGR would cause it to misfire if there are issues with the EGR so that is the logic at play here.

 

With the small diameter intake EGR passages (one per port), it’s typically cyl #1 that’s the first to clog.

 

I'm not sure how much difference "closest to the EGR" should be expected to make. If anything, there's a school of thought often repeated here that has cyl #1 as a frequent victim and connects that to the manifold passage to #1 getting the most clogged.

If the manifold has been recently cleaned and those passages aren't clogged to any noticeable degree, I would expect that any closeness-to-EGR effect would be negligibly small.

 

ok so what in the EGR would cause the misfire? the tech explained to me that #4 being nearest to the egr is common cause for misfire.