Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

Having been paged ... Toyota, like car and boat and plane makers generally, would use crimp connections, to avoid embrittling wires that are subject to vibration the way solder does. On the other hand, they go to town with solder on the circuit boards inside their ECUs and other electronics, all kinds of things that are parts of fixed rigid assemblies. Horses for courses.

A well-made crimp connection, finished off with the sealant -doped heat shrink (or with self-bonding silicone tape like Rescue Tape) has all of the material properties you want there. A poorly-made crimp connection doesn't necessarily ... though poorly made solder joints don't necessarily, either.

 

Thanks for the replies I just received my solder kit that has shrink tube included. I also have small crimp connectors. Never really soldered before. Doesn't seem too difficult. I think after that, the rest looks like smooth sailing! Haha,I hope!

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Hopefully all goes well. I already have 2 friends waiting on outcome before doing theirs.

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Practice soldering with some scrap wire.

Push the shrink tube up one side, a good distance from the joint.

You want to strip insulation of about 3/4" of both, seperate the strands slightly, merge the two, then pinch and twist.

Get solder iron well heated. Hold tip under or far side, making firm contact with the twisted joint. After maybe 10~15 seconds (depends on solder iron power) touch solder very briefly to solder iron, just to get ball rolling. Then touch the solder to the spliced wire and the solder iron at same time, then just the wire splice. If you've timed it right the solder will flow into the twisted splice.

 

Got one side. The side in car is giving me a problem stripping. Don't want to run out of room. Any ideas? Hope not too many dumb questions. Are there any kind of crimps that work by piercing insulation? I can get soldering iron in there but can't strip wire. Damn!!

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There are "insulation-displacement connectors" that work by piercing insulation, but you don't want those; they make a connection very different from a proper crimp.

Usually the wire harness in the car is held in place by various clips or clamps, and if you release enough of those, maybe peel back some tape, you can give yourself some room to work.

 

I will try to unhook harness and figure out how to give me some more room to work. The wires I used are a little bit thicker than what is already there. Is that going to be a problem? I had some similar size but one is copper and the other is aluminum or some other silver material.

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Maybe use copper throughout?

 

I am going to. The thing I was asking is if the donor wire is a little bigger gauge,will it make a difference?

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Thicker shouldn't be a problem.

 

Got temp wire done! Thanks guys for help on that. Now I have another question. I think I saw it on one of videos but it's a long process trying to find it. Instead of using galvanized pipe, could I just use the plastic elbow that came on gen 4? It has a little sensor connection on top but reaches perfect from block to lower radiator hose.

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That's what I used.

 

I am having overheating issues after I swapped the engine. I have Gen 4 engine in Gen 3 but I am just blowing off this water pumps one after another. I noticed one thing that when it is overheating, the coolant level in reservoir goes up and overflows. So from past two days, I was trying to get air out but raising the tank, opening bleeder valve etc but today my water pump (this is third one) gave up. Does anyone has experience this? Please help!

 

This was mounted on top of 16 engine. The one from 13 engine in the video looks like he routes vac hose behind fuel rail to somewhere under intake.Does it go to throttle body?

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That is the purge valve. I think that’s the right place.

 

Routes gas tank vapour to intake, just below throttle body. Computer regulates when/how through that valve.

 

I didn't see any other place it could go. Made sense! Kind of a tight fit rerouting some stuff. Everything is back in. Just noticed that egr is pressed hard against temp sensor after tightening. I'm afraid with vibration it might break wires. Gonna try to figure it out. Then put oil and coolant in. Give her a shot!!

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Try to start car. Put it in maintenance mode when I push the start button nothing!!Any ideas?

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It says check hybrid system. Stop at safe place

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Did you ever figure it out?

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