Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

I just purchased a gen 4 engine with 5th letter A. Will it still work on 2013 Prius 2? 14k miles

 

I’ve been struggling with this thing. As I was swapping injectors and test driving the battery went to one bar and the car pretty much stopped moving so I pulled the hybrid battery out and load tested all the cells. All of them started at about 7.43 volts. I used a headlight bulb for 10 min on each one. There were at least 6 that dropped to 7.2 in under 1 minute and 12 that dropped below 6.97 volts after 10 min. A few as low as 6.92 volts. I purchased a MAXX Voltage Charger and I’m waiting for that to show up so I can recharge them and see if that helps.

I’m also going to check that wire on cylinder 1. I never thought about that being an issue.

 

Trying to figure out the source of the EGR insufficient flow DTC.

Is the EGR valve on the Gen4 engine a different part number? Is the stepper motor a slightly different design? If the Gen4 EGR is swappable with the Gen3 EGR maybe you can keep the EGR cooler in place and just swap valves?

 

The EGR on the gen 4 has the outlet in a different direction than the gen 3 EGR. If you kept the gen 4 cooler and swapped just the EGR you would need to make a crazy new tube to reroute the EGR outlet to the Intake. At that point the exhaust gasses are cool so you might just be able to do it with a rubber hose though.

Update on my prius: I went through the process of extensively cleaning the old 3rd gen egr cooler (oof that was ugly) and swapping it back instead of the 4th gen. Took a little bit of refiguring out piping and cutting some extrusions off of the head but made it fit. I bought a new exhaust manifold for $40 shipped instead of unbending the old one. Car's been running good since then, handled 6 hrs each way to NC and back without any issues. My girlfriend seems to say it's running better but I have no idea if that's just placebo. no CEL's.

 

Guys, I am struggling figuring out what’s going on with this car. 13 Prius V. Gen 4 swap. Car was drivable even though it was misfiring pretty bad but now it runs for a few seconds and dies. I load tested all the cells the other week and replaced 12 of them that weren’t lining up with the others. Load tested the new ones and all voltage was around 7.43V before I bought the MAXX voltage charger thinking it has to do with the Hybrid battery. Charged it overnight. 244V on hybrid battery. Attempted to start it, immediately the battery dash indicator dropped to 1 bar. I plugged the MAXX voltage charger back in to see where the voltage was. 236V. Ok, checked the 12V battery that is brand new. 12V. Did an internal diagnostic with the vehicle. U0100. Can’t reset it. Is it likely the Power Management Control Module is actually bad? Would that cause the following codes to come up? I’m not getting the triangle of death which is weird. These codes are what the dealer (scanned a month ago) and my Carista OBD2 reader scanned:

U0100 Lost Communication with ECM/PCM (only shows up on internal diagnostics in car)
P3190 Poor Engine Power
P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0351 Ignition coil A primary/secondary circuit
P0352 Ignition coil B primary/secondary circuit
P0353 Ignition coil C primary/secondary circuit
P0354 Ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit
P0441 Evaporative emission control system incorrect purge flow
P0455 evaporative emission control system leak detected (gross leak)
P148F Engine coolant pump over revolution
P219A Bank 1 air-fuel ratio inbalance

It’s a laundry list but could all this have to do with the PCM and not the actual swap of the Gen 4 engine? This is driving me up the damn wall. Any help is much appreciated.

 

Off topic but frustrated. Can anyone tell me how to post a question on this thread. Thx in advance

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Can I use gen 3 coils in gen4 swap or should I just order new ones. Also, I forgot red locktite on flywheel bolts. Should I pull engine back out or will it be ok?

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Check and make sure the engine harness didn’t get sandwiched between the transmission and the block. That many codes says pinched wire somewhere.

 

Gen 4 coils plug right in to Gen 3 harness.

Did you impact wrench tighten flywheel or just hand tools? I hammered on my flywheel bolts with an impact.

 

I torqued them to 58ft lbs. Found online. So coils are plug and play. 3 to 4 should be fine. Thanks

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I torqued them to 58 ft lbs. Found speck online. So coils are plug and play. Thanks!

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Did anyone here install engine alone? Ok can't seem to get it to save my life!

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The trick to install is let the valve cover roll back. If you have the engine attached to the hoist straight up and down, it is harder to get it lined up. I’m not saying that it won’t go in vertically, but it takes just the right position. Also, try spinning the crank pulley as you are lining up the damper to the transmission.

 

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I won't be able to try until next weekend. Work plus L.A. traffic commute sucks! 180 mile round-trip in my 5.7l Tundra just hurts

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Thanks! That was the trick. 1st try! Gave me hell other day.

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If engine and trans bolts line up, damper and trans have to be engaged. Correct?

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If there is no gap between engine and trans, then yes, the damper and all should be lined up.

 

When lengthening temp sensor, does it have to be soldered or can I use crimp connectors?

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Paging @ChapmanF.

Because it's "permanent", for cosmetics (and my OCD), I'd solder and shrink-tube. FWIW Toyota does mostly crimped. But to me a splice mid-wire cries out for solder.