Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

Camshaft position sensor

 

Better?

 

Latest update: I tested all three wires on the camshaft sensor connector. For these tests, I punched the start button twice without my food on the gas pedal, to turn on car without starting engine.

Tested the constant wire (black), and the reading is anywhere from 5 to 5.3 volts.
Tested the continuity on the ground wire (white), and I do have continuity.
Back probed the signal wire (red) while the connector was connected to the sensor, I got 1.22 ohms of resistance.
While back probing the signal wire (red) I also tested the voltage, and got no signal (though I'm not 100% sure if I'm suppose to be getting signal at this point).

While back probing the signal wire, am I suppose to ground the tester to the engine or ground to the ground wire in the connector?

 

Not sure how much help I can offer, as you're far beyond anything I've attempted with a gen3/4. But I will take the lead (without pointing fingers, maybe some of the OG swappers will step up?) and work through this step by step, hopefully we you can figure this out with a little help.

Just to clarify, there are no other DTCs currently showing (yes, you aren't using Techstream.. yet)

Two button presses without a foot on the gas brake pedal, would be IG(nition)-ON

The workup for DTC P0343 starts at page 2402 (of 7595) in the gen3 manual (linked above, loads faster if saved locally. Wish we collectively had a reference copy of the gen4 manual), now skip down to page 2407, hold the sensor wire with the clip end at 12 o'clock, probe pin 3 [ D18-3 (VC) ] on the right side (same black wire?) and test to body ground, the manual says it should read between 4.5v and 5.0v for 'standard voltage'. If you're reading 5.1v or above, then this could be the problem and we'll you'll need to move on to the next step in the workup : NG > CHECK HARNESS AND CONNECTOR (CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR - ECM)

 

Having reread the thread, I think the answer is to remove the timing cover and reset the cam/crank relationship. The “clunk clunk” sounds were likely the chain jumping over the camshaft gear.

 

Wouldn't the timing cover, cam, and chain tensioner be left undisturbed during the swap?

 

Yes, but the tensioner is held in place by two things. A spring loaded tang and engine oil pressure. If the tang is worn/broken, then the lack of oil pressure against it would allow slack in the chain.

 

Is there a way to prevent such a thing from happening during future swaps?

How long could a spring loaded tang be expected to last given normal wear, or when using a dealer maintenance schedule?

If known, how many miles might you have on that used gen4 replacement engine?

 

The new (3rd gen) tensioner is around $20 (CDN) plus $28 shipping:

Buy camshaft & valve for Toyota Prius XW30 (01.2009 - 11.2011) - Amayama
Genuine Toyota 13540-37030 (1354037030) TENSIONER ASSY, CHAIN, NO.1 - Amayama

Note, if you throw in a few small extras, the shipping charge often stays the same, or goes up very little.

4th gen tensioner's about the same:

Buy camshaft & valve for Toyota Prius XW50 (09.2015 - 11.2018) - Amayama
Genuine Toyota 13552-37010 (1355237010) GASKET (FOR CHAIN TENSIONER) - Amayama

 

Even though my engine was around 10k miles, I put a new OE tensioner on when I did my swap.

 

Thanks @Ragingfit for putting up those videos

Finally finishing up on my install using:

Gen 4 EGR
Gen 4 Intake Manifold
Gen 3 Exhaust Header
Gen 3 modified wiring harness
Gen 3 Intake Air Box

No engine codes or knocking noise when starting up.

Avg 50 mpg





iPhone ?

 

No - No - No

Did not work! Followed another Member that did this and caused an engine code (Insufficient EGR flow)

No need to re-pin


iPhone ?

 

Ah, so leave the pins as-is?

The two pics you posted above: the first looks like a real spaghetti fest. Is that the before, and second is after you tidied up?

That's a head-spinning mass of wiring.

I really think you should run that into a dealership for an oil change, some excuse to have them pop the hood...

 

Correct EGR circuit did not open completely causing the car to have a slight hesitation while accelerating


iPhone ?

 

All cleaned up


iPhone ?

 

What part of the wiring did you modify pls?

 

There are 47k miles on the Gen 4 engine.

Today I opened up the valve cover to see if I could look at the timing chain. I didn't go to the trouble of removing the side panel, but the two timing marks on the top line up. What are the odds that the two on top line up and the bottom doesn't? Others here may have more experience with the timing than I do. Wish I had checked on this when I had the engine out...

 

Zero chance.

 

if you took off the harmonic balancer, you can peek through to see if the chain yellow mark is at the dot.
CTTO.

 

Today I managed to get my OBDLink MX+ code reader working. Apparently a software update had occurred months ago, and I had to re-register the device. OBDLink MX+ can detect hybrid codes that others can't (including the other code reader I had been using). So, armed with the OBDLink I was able to detect some additional codes.

Confirmed:
P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor) which I had already
C1259 - HV Control System Regenerative Malfunction
C1310 - HV System Malfunction
P0A0F - Engine Failed to Start

Pending:
P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)

Meanwhile, I only have 20.3% Hybrid Battery power left (showing as 1 bar on the console). I wouldn't have thought that this would be the underlying problem though because the engine will start - it just roughly force-stops after several seconds. It's not as if the engine won't start at all.

As for the 12V battery, I tried swapping it out with my father's 12V from his Prius (fully charged) and that did not clear up my problem either. I know the 12V is usually under scrutiny with many of these codes.

Another thought: perhaps the gas is too old? The car has been sitting for 5 months now..