Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

I would unwrap and pull off the plastic loom for 8~10" or so, figure out a splice location, cut the wire off there, strip about 3/4" insulation off the cut end.

Then make up a fresh end, same wire gauge, appropriate spade connector crimped on, wire length about 3/4" longer, and the insulation stripped back similarly. Aim to end up with repair that at least as long as original, err on the side of slightly longer.

Push a section of shrink tube on, as far up as possible (away from the heat), then bring the two ends together, push the strands through each other, twist it into a "rope", taking care to have no strands sticking out.

Secure both sides of this spice with clamps of some sort, then bring a decent sized soldering iron up against it from below, in firm contact.

Bide your time, touching the solder to the wire from above to test. At some point the copper will start to darken. A quick brush of the solder on the iron may help accelerate the heat up.

When the solder melts readily into the copper run it quickly end-to-end of the joint, then back off and let it cool.

Silide the shrink tube down, centered on the splice, play a heat gun on it gently, one side, then the other. Aim for a moderate shrink, enough that you can see the insulation ends outlined, but don't overdue it.

Finally push the loom back on, wrap with some electrical tape, well tensioned.

 

What would be the integrity of soldering the one plate to the other, and calling it a day? Of the plate that broke off, there is still a short bit of metal.

I'll admit, my soldering abilities are not as honed as I would like. I ran into this with extending the temp sensor wire, as the #11 video demonstrates. In the end, I just used butt crimp connectors, as they were a lot less of a headache.

However, if I'm reading your post correctly, you are suggesting crimping the spade connectors to a new wire and then soldering the new wire to the old. Why not just use the existing wire and crimp spade connectors to them, without the soldering of new wire? I could have read that wrong...

 

If you can manage to uncrimp the damaged connector that'd be best. Second best you cut the wire as close as possible, crimp a fresh connector: you've lost say 1/2" and if there's still enough reach, yeah that is preferable to my previous malarkey, lol.

I guess I was thinking the reach would be compromised too much. Anyway, lots of methods.

I alway seem to end up soldering in a make up piece myself, maybe just my preference.

There's actually two mangled connectors, one totally, the other iffy?

 

There are two ground connectors, and within each there are three insulated wires. One ground connector is fine - the other is mangled. I ended up cutting a little off the mangled connector wires and crimped a spade connector, as you suggested. Worked like a charm.

Now, I've got another ground connector that extends from the engine to the chasis (between the coolant reservoir and motor mount) that I'm not sure about. I guess it's okay to bolt it to the same location on the engine as the other two ground connectors?

 

And does anyone have any idea what this is for, and if there is anything that hooks up to it? Thanks again for everybody's help. I should have the car working by tonight (fingers crossed).

 

The circled bit is on the fourth gen valve cover? I think it's a blind hole, for the 4th gen decorative plastic cover? Maybe?

 

Got the fluids topped off, plugged back in the safety plug for the hybrid battery, hooked up the 12V battery and pushed the start button.... yellow triangle of death, with error message "Check Hybrid System"... this was the error message I had when I last had the car running. Not sure if I've screwed up, or if the system needs 'rebooting'... I would have thought unplugging the 12V would have done that.

 

Can you get the code(s)? Dr Prius App (on an iPhone or Android) and a Carista bluetooth adapter is probably the cheapest/quickest.

Or a generic code reader. Or ScanGauge if you have.

Check Hybrid System is a catch all.

 

I have a bluetooth code reader, but I can't even get that to pair (which is unusual, since it's a decent device). Guess I'll have to go buy an old fashioned code reader..

 

Stored (and pending):
P0343 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
Severity 2 of 3
Repair immediately if driveability issues are present. Threat to essential system components if not repaired as soon as possible.

It's worth noting that my 12V battery has about 50% health (health, not charge... I charged it last night). I'm going to have it replaced under warranty today, as it's only 8 months old. Maybe that is responsible?

On another note: apparently if you don't drive your vehicle for 4 months in the south, you develop a nice mold colony all throughout the interior....

 

Do you have the workup for that DTC already?

P0343: Camshaft Position Sensor Range Check (High Voltage) - Camshaft position sensor voltage - More than 4.7 V

DTC P0343 : Output voltage of 4.7 V for 4 seconds (1 trip detection logic)

• Open or short in camshaft position sensor circuit
• Camshaft position sensor
• Intake camshaft
• Jumped tooth of timing chain for intake camshaft
• ECM

 

I've given what I know, given the code reader I was able to purchase.

 

^ Maybe this??

 

Not gen4, but might be useful :
https://www.selidori.com/tech/scarica.php?id_doc=660
https://www.selidori.com/tech/scarica.php?id_doc=840

You deserve a mini-vci cable and techstream, either before or after you finish this swap

Would hope not. Was thinking a bad/misaligned sensor or something a bit simpler to sort out.

 

So I put in the new 12V battery, erased the code and tried to start it up - code came back.

I replaced the camshaft position sensor with the one from the 2012 engine, and erased the code - code came back.

I guess the next step is to try and locate a short in the electrical harness.

If it is the timing chain, isn't it just as simple as removing the valve cover, and the timing cover, and lining the chain back up?

 

Though not application specific, following step by step (when possible) the workup for the gen3 might be the path of least resistance.

 

I'm going to need some time to look over that PDF to even know what I'm looking at.

I unplugged the camshaft sensor and actually started the car up, and it ran smoothly for about 5 seconds and then *clunk clunk* - it cut off. Plugged the camshaft sensor in and it did this one more time (and it started for another 5 seconds), before once again refusing to start at all.

I tested the camshaft sensor plug with a multi-meter and the reading was 5.3 volts. Not sure what the ideal voltage is suppose to be. By your previous post, I am assuming 5.3 is too high.

 

You could be on the right track, as DTC P0343 is triggered when at/over 4.8v for 4 seconds or more

 

Not 100% sure of which sensor(s) you're discussing; the attachment might be helpful.

 

And this: