Summary of problems reported on Prius 2010

Have an appointment with the service department at 8 AM. I will go in and have my Cruise Control brake activated cancel switch adjusted to cancel the CC sooner and post what I find out.

EDIT: See post 126.

 

Do the CDs play? I don't think mine shows the name or track number, but it does play.

 

MataOrtiz and PriusRos do you guys have the Nav System? I think the CD player that comes with the Nav system is different.

My car has Nav and if I push the Audio button it displays the track number, name of the song, artist's name, and I think the folder as well but this is displayed on the Nav screen.

I ask because if this is a problem it is important to know which audio system has the problem.

 

I have the nav system. However, I generally listen to audiobooks and maybe they don't have names associated with the tracks. I think that not all CDs, even music CDs, have text associated with each track.

 

Just returned from the dealer, I went in to have the cruise control brake activated cancel switch adjusted. As previously discussed I have to push the brake pedal down to far to cancel the cruise control and the brakes actually start to lug the engine down slightly before the CC will cancel.

There are two switches connected to the brake pedal and I thought one was the brake light and the other would be the cruise control. According to the service manager, who looked it up, the cruise control and the brake lights use the same switch. Jburns indicated this in post 111 and he was correct. I have no idea what the second switch on the brake pedal is, maybe something to do with regen braking? I'll try to figure it out from the EWDs just for my own curiousity.

The bottom line is, with my car and perhaps others with the same problem, you can have the brake lights adjusted correctly or the cruise control cancel adjusted correctly. My service manager recommended, and I agree, that the brake lights are more important because the cruise control can be canceled with the stock on the steering wheel. He said if he adjusted the switch so the CC would cancel correctly the brake lights might stay on. I don't know for sure if this is right but I told them just to leave it the way it is.

So if my service manager is correct, and as I said he looked it up, then maybe this is something that could be corrected in the future by adding a second switch? I'll get along with it the way it is, I've already trained myself (almost) to use the cancel switch on the steering wheel stock. In an emergency when you really cram the brakes down hard it works OK the way it is.

I do think it would be nice if somone else who has this problem would take their car in to verify what I was told.

 

I think the "sm" is full of it.

If CC cancels when BL comes on, then correct adjustment would have BL off and allow CC to work when the foot is not on the pedal. Then, with perhaps 3/8 inch travel (1/4 to 1/2 inch?) the BL comes ON, and the CC goes "off".

Not possible to have the CC working properly and the BL not working properly, right?

 

Frankly it occurred to me that they just didn't want to fool with it. But now that I know exactly which switch it is I think I can see how to adjust it, it is a pain to get to though. I'm going to have a go at it, I think it must be possible to get it adjusted better than it is. I'll post the results but it will be a week or so before I have time for it.

 

My speedometer cluster including fuel gauge went black. The dealer had to remove the dashboard and put a new card in that was reported to be bad.

 

The brake pedal effort to disengage my cc was very hard, too, but it seems to be getting better. ( Or maybe I'm just getting used to it. )

Another way to easily and smoothly disengage the cc is by briefly notching the shift lever to "B", then back to "D". Speed setting is maintained.

 

Thanks Tad, I knew B would disengage the CC but I didn't know it would remember the speed setting.

 

Please add to the list, if someone hasn't already:
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Problem: Settable customization options are not USER settable
Description: Options need dealer scantool to change, and if the 12V
battery is disconnected they revert to factory defaults thus forcing
another dealer visit [and in many cases, spurious charges].
Solution: fundamental design flaw. Vehicle owner should have unrestricted
access to operational options, without special tools.
Thread is this one
.
_H*

 

Please look at the thread I referenced. No need to create a new
one, and EVERYBODY with a 2010 has this problem.
.
Are you being more interested in the problems themselves, or
just wrapping arbitrary proceduralism around them?
.
_H*

 

Here is a good one that alot of people are talking about;

Squeaking from wheels during a rolling start. A number of us have notified Toyota Customer Care about it. Here is the forum link: http://priuschat.com/forums/gen-iii...eaking-sound-wheels-during-rolling-start.html

 

I have had gen2 for 5 years and think comfort is much better in gen 3

 

I agree.. this is a bit silly.... even a cheezy computer can be shut off, power disconnected and all the settings will still be in the bios when you fire it back up.

Seems a simple 12V bios battery that cost about 3.00 bucks would prevent interruption of power to the system bios would do the trick.....

Too bad Toyota didn't think of something so simple.

I'm trying to give them the benefit of a doubt that it wasn't on purpose to make money for the dealers

 

Someone did confirm it, I think, but I agree that someone should
just flat-out do the experiment on one or two parameters [like
maybe while still at a dealer's getting things changed]. You
can bet that if I had a 2010 I would have done this long since,
probably right there in the dealer lot with the tech standing there
open-mouthed holding his techstream after I tell him "don't
go away yet".
.
_H*