Suitable substitutes for the Toyota ATF-WS transmission or transaxle fluid?

UK Toyota dealers seem to charge three to four times too much for just about everything. They don't actually stock ATF WS 'Because it never needs to be changed' - buying from the Toyota online shop was also a bit of a farce, so I just gave up and bought elsewhere.

I've never had good experiences with official dealers. I once had a problem with a broken bracket on a VW exhaust. The dealer wanted £1000 for a replacement system. I took it to a local Kwikfit, who welded it up for £20 and its been passing its annual inspection for years since then. I once bought a new Afa Romeo - my experience with the dealer made me swear that I will never, ever, buy another Alfa so long as I live!

 

My b-b-b-bad!

 

Hi Kingsway, thanks for adding to the list!

From what I have heard, Mannol is considered an economical, but good quality name brand. If those viscosity specs are the same for the product no. that you received, then it is a little thicker than most other brands of WS.

 

That's interesting - it seems so 'watery'! I have since weakened and decided to order some of the genuine stuff. A Toyota dealer has just popped-up online who's selling it for 30% off the normal list price... (still not cheap, mind you)

Only a year to go on the guarantee, but might be worth playing carefully, just in case I need to make a claim...

 

Good call! I'ts not like this is a frequent maintenance item..so the extra cost is probably justified.

 

Cheaper than sleeping pills.

 

I can get sleeping pills for free on the NHS!

 

Farmecologist: I just looked up your thread about buying your Prius V - I had never heard of zinc=plating for brakes disks!!

Very intrigued - I even have a little zinc-plating outfit myself, although it is mostly intended for smaller parts. But am now very keen to do my rear disks in particular which are rusty and look really horrible through my alloys... (just one of the disadvantages of alloys)

I have some disks ready to fit - but will put the job off until I, or someone else, can electroplate them. Hmm.... now... what colour for the passivating??

 

How would zinc plating a rotor work? Would you immediately afterwards machine of the pad contact surface? or let the pads do it over time?

 

That's what I have always wondered in the past - Apparently it's okay to let the coating wear off by normal brake action.

I do like the idea, although further thought makes me realise the finish won't stay looking good once winter comes along and the road salt does its thing... Maybe it would be practical to use clear varnish over the hub and edge areas?

 

It's too dang bad they didn't zinc plate some other parts too. Or do something, some rust preventative coating. All the little coarse-thread screws for example, and suspension steel, bolts.

 

I've always replated all the screws and bolts on cars I've rebuilt or refurbished. But my poor little MGB which I brought back to the UK 17 years ago quickly lost the shine thanks to the dreaded salt! I'm sadly in the process of getting it sold, either as scrap or, as salvage. I'm just too old and stiff to rebuild cars these days!

 

The pads wear off the zinc coating where they touch. The rest of the rotor remains plated. I was having trouble with rotor hubs rusting (and looking horrible) and did a bunch of reading about it....these zinc plated rotors are what some have used to help the problem.

If the dang winter would *ever* end around here..the brakes are next to do...along with intake/EGR cleaning, and spark plugs. Any updates will be posted to my thread. Good news is after this 'last' winter storm...temps are going to get into the 50F+ range (hopefully for good). So possibly this coming weekend I can start on this stuff!

Edit: I also noticed some rust under the rear of the v (wagon) because there are no protective panels back there like there are on the liftback. I've heard of some 'zinc spray' products for protection but have never used them. If anyone has recommendations let me know!

 

I’ve bought rust products from this company in the past. (It was for a ‘13 smart installation of a rear (bike) rack). I don’t have the smart anymore (accident took it away from me) and it’s was/is too new to give honest feedback on how well their products work....

Rust Stopping Products: Treatment & Removal - Eastwood

 

I started a new thread with a this question and after reading this thread I'm going to ask it here. Has anyone ever had a CVT failure after using a fluid other than Toyota WS?

 

There has been discussion of it...but I'm not aware that anyone was ever brave enough to do it ( or admit to it ).

 

Alternate fluid proponents tend to be fiercely chauvinistic, bury their dead by night.

I don't care if other fluids are fine; for me a transaxle fluid change is definitely not an open-bid, equal opportunity project. Toyota says use this, and using anything else could cause damage? I would never respond with: so what else is ok?

 

For any infrequent fluid changes, why not use what Toyota recommends? Cost should not be an object in these cases.

 

I don't know that there even was a cost advantage, and if there was it was trivial. For me the ATF-WS fluid was under $10 (CDN) a liter. IIRC availability is spotty-to-nil in Europe though, and the cost is through the roof.