Sudden loss of power, Red Triangle, Won't Start + P3190

Have you tried to measure fuel line pressure yet? That would show whether the fuel pump is operational. As you may know the fuel pump is part of the fuel tank, hence the tank would have to be replaced if the fuel pump has a problem.

The fuel line pressure should be 43 psi or more.

 

$90 - Master Fuel Injection Pressure Test Kit

or maybe this less expensive version: $20 - Fuel Injection Pump Tester

Have you had a chance to use your newly acquired MVCI cable for DTC retrieval?

Let us know if you need a hand figuring anything out.

You might consider towing it to "Best Hybrid Battery" for repair, unless they have a mobile mechanic that can help you.

 

Just a short recap, so we're all on the same page (items have been skipped like, MAF cleaning and manifold..)

The only code read with a scanner was DTC 3190; and that wasn't retrieved with Techstream.

Various mechanics claim the engine fires when 'starting fluid' is used. (are we sure its not just the engine spinning or turning over?)

You obtained a mini-vci cable and have yet to use it, or let a mechanic use it.

The current mechanic, Best Hybrid Batteries, ran "through all the trouble shooting steps"... Which steps are those? Were they trouble shooting steps related to DTC 3190 or some other code(s)?

Fuel pressure was checked (near the engine) and was 43 PSI or greater.

Vehicle still doesn't start, and also refuses to throw any codes?

 

sounds like they are playing the guessing game at your expense, lets say you do put a new motor in and the ECU was the real problem are they going to give you your money back? hell no.. before playing games with thousands of dollars just take it to the dealer and let them do the diagnostic, you can always get it fixed somewhere else... join AAA Premium (or what ever they call it now) and after 2 days use the free towing. realistically you have a 12 year old car worth maybe $2500,(don't post the KBB value of the car no one has ever paid book value on an older car unless they are stoned) if you sell it not running you might get 1200 for it.. flip a coin

 

Wow this thread got ugly it went from the OP scoffing at P3190 to an engine replacement.

 

Loss of power issues

1. Fuel delivery
2. Bad throttle body

 

The engine runs without starting fluid now?

 

This has been covered before, your engine is NOT running, it's just the HV battery doing the work. After 10 seconds, it quits and throws codes.

 

I just got here. Something to avoid. Whoever diagnoses the problem make sure they supply any parts this is why. Worst case situation. You tell a garage to replace the engine and if it still doesn't run you have to pay them because they replaced the engine. They troubleshoot it and tell you it is the engine, they replace the engine they supply the engine and it doesn't fix the car it's their problem now. Just some thoughts.

 

Overall it sounds like progress is being made, just slowly.

If a mechanic used an Ohm meter for (DTC 3190) steps 6 through 11 and everything checked out as 'OK', then I would go back through the (DTC 3190) check list (step by step) one last time (before towing to the dealer) starting with step 1 - reading the code(s) thrown.

Try checking for intake leak/blockage (step 3), also check for fuel pressure (step 5).

If you make it through all of the steps again (1 to 11) with a bunch of "OK's", next step is shopping for an ECU (that would be after step 11, under 'OK').. which the dealer may explain ($$$$) once they charge a diagnostic fee to do the above all over again. Of course they could find the actually problem and tell you something else ($$$).

 

you paid twice what it was worth when you bought it so why dump more money into a 12 year old car? sell it

 

Without knowing the actual problem and the outside cost of parts and repair (maybe you can DIY), it would be hard to advise.

Does sound excessive for three or four $200 tows and a handful of diagnostic hours that have left you wondering whether to continue opening a wallet.

Guessing that $1735 includes the rebuilt/used battery you purchased months ago, or is that strictly coffee clutching / hand warming time?

Where is the vehicle now, and what is the next plan of action?

 

1500+1750+400? At this point, you should hopefully get it repaired for under $1000 and get some use out of this car. If you sell it (if you can afford to do it), then sell it before the repair and don't look back