Sudden loss of power, Red Triangle, Won't Start + P3190

To buy a new battery, you'll need to turn in the core from Best Hybrid Batteries.

 

Maybe someone has a battery you can swap? Just to test the theory before you spend $3000+

 

Excellent idea. Guessing the mechanic might've done that already.. hence the 'dead battery' diagnosis.

Also a good idea to know the actually HV battery status (or codes) before s/he calls in a warranty claim that has no basis (HV battery is discharged, but not failed) or the claim is denied because the vehicle doesn't 'Ready' or run.. which might also nullify any future warranty claims as per the fine print on the used battery.

 

Dead battery may be a problem now, because of the repeated attempted starts. But that still does not fix the initial no start issue.

 

We need to be clear on defining 'dead battery' and 'discharged battery', though both can mean the same thing at different times.

 

Sounds like that could be the situation at this point, and without having access to a charged HV battery in the vehicle it won't turn over or start the engine.

Hybrid Automotive Prolong Charger loaner tool program to the rescue?

 

Do they have a loaner program? @jeff652 perhaps this is another business opportunity.

 

From what I've read here on the forums related to used/rebuilt HV battery warranties generally goes something like this: the company potentially honoring the warranty will use techstream (or another tool) to pull codes from your car, if the car doesn't offer up the needed codes that point to a failed/broken HV battery they will not honor said warranty.

Are we sure that the HV battery has been depleted to the point where the engine can no longer be turned over?

 

But I thought the mechanic said the HV battery was dead? (back to redefining dead and depleted)

Might think about investing in a Hybrid Automotive charger and harness for a few hundred and charging that HV battery up. Could be less then towing and Toyota diagnosis fees (which may include charging the HV battery at the dealer for more then the cost of a complete charger AND discharger setup).

 

You normally wouldn't have to suggest to the mechanic to use any type of tools to diagnose your car. They are the professionals here. If you could have done it yourself, the car wouldn't be at their shop.

As far as pulling codes, if the 12v battery dies or gets disconnected, most of the codes will disappear.

You can check the voltage of the hv battery, if it's over 201v, it has enough power (to at least start the car).

 

I have no idea what 5/10 drop or 8/10 drop ratio means. I don't think your mechanic does either.

If it's 140v, it's too low to start the car. Again, this is caused by it being used multiple times to start a car that has a problem starting. The root cause of the problem is there....the battery failing is not the root cause of your problem.

 

This would be normally for Self Discharge on batteries that are not well matched. This is where the warranty would come in if the battery were to fail because of that reason. But your battery failed because it's been drained by multiple tries to start your car. So not sure you'll be covered under warranty.

So it seems you have 2 issues you need resolved. A new battery $3000+ and a no start issue (I'm thinking bad injectors). Are you prepared to spend that type of money? And if it still doesn't resolve your issue...then it's a lot of money down the drain.