Stereo Upgrade A Go-Go

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Actual Mileage @ Sep 5 2006, 06:08 PM) [snapback]314776[/snapback]</div>

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Actual Mileage @ Sep 21 2006, 01:55 PM) [snapback]322923[/snapback]</div>

An admirable collection of goodies, indeed!
Eventually, the wife will find out what you're up to......you know that right?
Just make sure you have a well prepared justification scripted.

Now that you will truly have 5 channels of amplification, it might be a good idea to get some kind
of separate level control for the channel driving the sub. You'll be able to use your fader to fade from front to rear to get the right mix between the front & rear doors, but unless you want to fuss with the gain control on the 3300c (which ain't easy because it's under that stainless shroud) you will want some kind of "knob" for the sub level. There's lots of ways to do this.....you can get something dedicated for the task (like the PAC LC1) or you can get something with this functionality built in (like an equalizer). I used to have an Alpine 3331 eq that I loved....it had a front to rear fader, separate sub level slider, selectable cross-over point for the cut-off frequench between highs & lows, and eleven bands of equalization sliders. One would fit nicely in that pocket under the factory head unit (can you tell I've been considering it?) Any way, I take you for a guy who will want to tinker with the sound to get it just right, so something like that might be just the thing.

Thing is that they don't make them any more (the 3331 that is). It seems that now-a-days most of the fancier aftermarket head units have built in eq functionality....that's great for them, but if you're stuck with your factory head unit (like we are) then it's not really an option. I have seen such things out there on ebay though....in fact I was tempted to buy one recently.

Okay, back to your system.......I'd put both amps in the storage compartment under the rear cargo area.
Mine is in there and because it's fan cooled it doesn't even flinch...so heat's not a problem....plus it makes for a very clean & stealth install....out of sight out of mind...at least to thieves (you do have those in Maine, don't you?) I'd recommend doing the sound deadening like you mentioned....you can always add more if
pesky rattles develop. Sub enclosure is up to you....mine is just in a plain-jane MDF box slid up behind the rear driver-side seat, under the tonneau cover. Your 10" is perfectly happy with as little as .63 cubic feet, which is exactly what I've seen others getting in the fiberglass enclosures over in the right rear corner (over the 12V battery/ behind the right rear wheel well). That preserves the use of the left rear cubby.
You could get creative & do something integrating your amps & sub box with all the space that the current
storage bin occupies....although it might interfear with access to the spare & tools.
Tuning of the box shouldn't be a concern. Stick with a small sealed box for the best range of low end frequency response....I can tell you from experience that the guys at Diamond cringe if you mention using
their subs in a vented/ tuned-port enclosure....although it can be done. In general, tuned boxes give really high output at their tuned frequency, but then almost nothing at any other frequency....i.e. a box that hits one low tone really hard. The woofer you've got and the volume of the sealed enclosure will dictate the frequency response, but you will be happy, trust me.

At the end of this, again I find myself apologizing for the novelette.

Regards,
Matt

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Actual Mileage @ Sep 22 2006, 10:05 AM) [snapback]323336[/snapback]</div>

Either the 3Sixty.2 or the Cleansweep would do most of what you're looking for, but neither gives you
easily accessible tweakibility (is that a word?)
The 3sixty requires you use a Palm device to do the tweaking...great if you've already got one, I suppose.
The 3Sixty.2 also has the built in crossover with separate outs for (and thus control over) the sub.
The cleansweep doesn't have the crossover or separate sub-out signal, and it's equalization is automatic (i.e. not tweakable).
I like the idea that these both take in the hi-level output from the factory head unit or amp and then smooth out the signal before sending it to your amps, but I guess I'm old school in that I like the instant gratification of moving a slider or twisting a knob and hearing the difference.
If you're primary concern is getting rid of any factory equipment induced equalization, then these are both great.....neither are cheap though.
Keep in mind that you already have electronic cross-overs in your amps, but they are the set it & forget it type.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Actual Mileage @ Oct 15 2006, 07:57 PM) [snapback]333170[/snapback]</div>

Yeah, I was a little worried when I heard you went with the Hex's...although
I think there's a way to separate the tweeter from its housing and pare it down a bit.
I had to do some reconstructive surgery on my factory tweeter mounts and get creative
with hot glue & mending plates to get my Diamoind D6 seres tweeters to go in.

Sound-wise it's good to not get your tweeter too far from your mid-bass driver, plus
having the tweeters a little further from your ears helps offset the difference in distance
from left vs. right tweeter and can get your driver's seat in a more center-balanced
position.....only down-side might be bringing the front image down a little (spatially).

Did you get the rest of the gear installed?
If so, how's it sound?

As I mentioned in the PM, I got my Three.1 in and will attach photo's below.

Regards,
Matt

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Actual Mileage @ Oct 15 2006, 08:38 PM) [snapback]333184[/snapback]</div>

You may want to hang on to those factory speakers.
You can always put them back in if you ever trade-in or sell the car.......something I plan on doing with my
Prius once it's out of warranty....so I can get that new '09 model everyone's ooing & ahhing over.
Just chuck them in a box in the attic...that's what I did.
Good news is that most of your system will be transferrable....save for the sound deadening.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Actual Mileage @ Oct 16 2006, 01:42 PM) [snapback]333502[/snapback]</div>

Is that the plug that will eventually plug into the back of some sort of knob?
If so, you might consider running it over to one of those blank panel inserts behind the blinker handle.....
they would accomodate a sub level knob nice & clean. I'm thinking of putting my radar detector mute button
there and then hard-wiring the detector to the fuse box.

Have you tinkered with the 3Sixty.1's settings yet? Have to use a Palm PDA?

Cheers

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Actual Mileage @ Oct 16 2006, 01:42 PM) [snapback]333502[/snapback]</div>

Did you ever find a shop that would touch a Prius audio install? I'm in Maine as well (Portland area).

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Actual Mileage @ Oct 31 2006, 04:46 PM) [snapback]341558[/snapback]</div>

Good to know, thanks!

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Actual Mileage @ Nov 1 2006, 02:00 PM) [snapback]342065[/snapback]</div>

Are your Xtant amps not behaving?
I've worked with both Rockford & Xtant and can't think of any big differences that would
make them work any different from eachother. A few more bells & whistles on the Xtant maybe.
Line levels should be similar, and you should have plenty of adjustment points in your setup.
Cheers

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Actual Mileage @ Nov 1 2006, 03:04 PM) [snapback]342108[/snapback]</div>

Are you referring to the built-in noise gate or the Balanced Line Module on the amp?
I believe the noise gate has a threshold adjustment potentiometer and maybe even a defeat switch
inside the amp.....if need be, you could switch it off or adjust its sensitivity.
If it's on the BLM-1, it too has gains you can tweak. Just a thought.
Cheers
Matt