spark plug replacement

Often when you open the driver's door a short burst of accumulator
pump running happens. That pressure is likely not sent to the
brake cylinders, but why take chances... especially if you've
depressurized anything. It's the work of a moment to pull the
relays.
.
How was "front brake.pdf" generated? Whatever that "win2pdf"
utility is, it generates HORRIBLE documents. The diagram
doesn't even show in my reader, just the labels. How about just
posting the original if it's not huge?
.
_H*

 

Hi Hobbit,

The .pdf file that I posted shows the exploded parts diagram for the front brake components, as well as the next page that explains how to disassemble and overhaul the front brakes. (pages 32-34 to 32-35, 2005 repair manual). Page 32-35 contains the following text:

"HINT: If work that does not involve brake fluid bleeding, such as disc brake pad replacement, is started 2 minutes or more after the power switch is turned off, brake control (ECB) prohibition is not necessary."​

However, I agree that if anyone is worried, it is easy enough to either remove the two relays or else disconnect the 12V auxiliary battery.​

The win2pdf utility is free software that allows you to create a .pdf file by "printing" to that software instead of to a real printer; I use the utility to print excerpts from larger .pdf files. ​

I know that you've had trouble downloading the file but I recall that you have your own Toyota repair manual documentation. ​

Has anyone else had a problem downloading the .pdf file that I attached earlier in this string? If so I will print the pages, then scan them to convert to .pdf format.​

Thanks!​

 

Hi Phil,

You can order paper manuals from your Toyota dealer. In the US the price is ~US$400 for a full set.

 

H

I have Adobe Acrobat Professional 7 installed on my work-at-home computer, soon to be upgraded to Pro 8. I downloaded the file and it appeared to open ok. The 3rd page is an annoying ad though about win 2 pdf

With Acrobat Pro, I can either use the toolbar button to make a pdf, or I can print to pdf. I tried to open Patrick's document on my laptop, which has Acrobat 8 Reader installed, and it opened fine

Would you like me to use Acrobat Pro to convert to a different version of pdf?

jay

 

funny, adobe reader 8.1 sees it just fine.

what are you viewing with, hobbit?

 

Just a quick post to share a photograph of one of the NGK Iridium spark plugs that I pulled out of my '06 Prius at 65K. After removal, I cleaned them up and applied nickel anti-sieze before reinstalling. I thought others might be interested to see how brown and rough the threads were on these plugs after 65K miles.

 

I think I would have replaced them. Did you have a difficult time removing them?

 

The plugs were in pretty good shape, except for the dirt on the threads. The gap was exactly (+/-0.001") at the spec according to my spark plug gap wire gauge. After cleaning, they looked fine, so I decided they were good enough to go back in to the engine for some more service.

 

An interesting page about iridi-plugs:

Iridium spark plugs by NGK and Denso

 

Well, I'm at about 139,000 miles and need to get my spark plugs replaced. I had bought a set of spark plug sockets but it seemed more trouble than it's worth to do it myself. The dealer wants $120 for labor to replace and I'm having a hard time believing it should cost that much. I'm about to head down to Lake Shasta and don't think it could hurt the car by going down and back with those old plugs but wondering what others think. I figure I'll just get it done once I get back.

For those that are interested, maintenance so far consists of: 5000 mile oil change service until 60,000miles(10,000 mile change thereafter), new brake actuator at 37,000miles, new PSD fluid at 60,000, water pump at 90,000 miles, new front brake pads at 133,000?miles "front brakes were at 8mm and was scolded by tech guy for still replacing them as they were practically new and rear brakes at 6mm" (off the top of my head)

 

Ye olde Prius parts list from 2001 quotes job times. It does not mention spark plugs. It does mention 4 ignitors (0.4 hrs), and that the time should include 0.4 hrs for air cleaner assy. removal. Why I don't know, because it's not 'there', but we are up to 0.8 hrs. Throw in another 0.2 for the sparklers themselves and call it 1.0.

Maybe your shop should charge $120 for this job, or maybe not.

Maybe I should be scolded for not changing plugs by 109k miles. But the were pulled and inspected at 60k, the tech had a good laugh and put them back in. I think Iridium plugs in this engine that never wanders far from the coorect air/fuel ratio will typically last a (very)^3 long time.

 

The ignition coils can fail if they have to fire across a larger gap in a worn spark plug. They will operate at higher temperatures in these conditions and will ultimately fail. I am a believer in Iridium tipped plugs, but IMO, any plug over 100k miles will have an "excessive" gap. If you intend to squeeze longer life out of the 10 dollar plugs be prepared to replace 4 ignition coils at somewhere around 80 dollars each. Always use antiseize on plugs that thread into aluminum heads.

 

Hi Saechaka,

I suggest that you replace the transaxle fluid again. Also, if the engine and inverter coolants were not replaced at the time that the water pump service was done, they are also overdue for replacement.

The spark plug change will take about one hour of your time if you remove the relay box mounted to the cowl for easier access, and have the proper length extensions so that you can fit your ratchet wrench in the available space.

Depending upon your state and federal income tax rate, you may have to earn $200 or more pretax to have $120 aftertax to pay the dealer. Since I personally am not earning money at the rate of $200+ per hour, I find it a good use of my time to DIY.

 

Thanks racerbob for the rational voice. Even iridium will eventually get burned away, and as you indicate we must not allow the gap to grow too large. How large is too large?

 

That's a good question. I just looked it up and Toyota does indeed give a max spec. Standard gap 1.0mm to 1.1mm (.039" to .043") Maximum gap 1.2mm (.047") Standard would be when installed and Maximum would be the wear limit.

 

Maybe I'm just handy, but on my Prius I had the old plugs out, the new ones back in, in under 30 mins. The trick is to unbolt and swing the relay box aside. No difference in performance or mileage that I can detect

My FJ the shop manual suggests some insane crap about removing the intake manifold. If one removes the air cleaner box - 3 mins tops - and a PCV hose and a bracket on the driver side, the plugs can be changed in about 35 mins

Sometimes the shop manual is overly confusing and perhaps that way on purpose. For example, my FJ it sugests you have to remove the headlights to adjust the aim. Yet if you look there are little holes in the top of the headlight to insert a very long shank screwdriver to turn the adjusting star

 

Hi Jay,

The Highlander Hybrid has a transverse-mounted V6. It looks like it will be necessary to remove the throttle body and the black plastic air inlet tubes leading to the intake manifold, to gain access to the three spark plugs adjacent to the firewall. This is clearly going to be a big PITA and I am not looking forward to that activity. The engine timing belt change at 90K miles will be another PITA. I have 30K miles on the vehicle now, and will probably change the plugs at the same time that I do the timing belt.

 

Hi Patrick

I'm wondering if they just throw out items like "Step 1: remove intake manifold" as most of their fleet requires this? My FJ doesn't have a transverse motor

However, when you first look at the motor, you'd swear the spark plugs were *impossible* to do. A lot of that intimidating stuff very quickly lifts out of the way, such as the air cleaner box

I put together a step-by-step for an FJ forum member, thought you'd find it interesting

jay

 

Hi Jay,

Thanks for providing the photos. So - the passenger side requires removing the air cleaner housing and associated ducting. What about the driver side - is that easy to get to, or does that also require some light disassembly?

Engine looks fairly dirty for a 2007 - guess you must be driving through lots of rivers and streams up there...

 

Hello Patrick. It works best to loosen up a support bracket for a VSV to allow access to the middle plug. The rear plug requires removal of the PCV hose. It's a bit tight to unplug the coil connector, and a long extension is necessary to reach the plug and clear the brackets and stuff

Never ever had it in water deeper than a street puddle. It's that damn logging operation north of my place. The gravel sideroad is a complete mess, very badly rutted and muddy now.

No way I could hope to get the Prius in, at least not without tearing off the underbody fairings and probably getting stuck. I tend to receive a surprise on that road everytime I drive it now. For example, around a month ago I thought one rut had maybe an inch of water.

Imagine my surprise when the front end dropped and a giant wall of muddy water splashed up onto the hood. I yelled "Holy S***!" and hit the gas, and the 4 wheel traction control worked as advertised. That rut had about 1.5 ft of water in it, along with mud

I probably should clean off the motor, I'll admit it is getting pretty dirty. I regularly hose off the rad after driving in that crap, so the mud doesn't harden on the rad and cause overheating

Matter of fact, heavy rain right now, and I have to drive back to my house tomorrow to check up on things. Should be fun

jay