Spark plug replacement - tools needed

I don't know that brand but I agree with the concept of buying a click-type 3/8" torque wrench. You will also need a 1/2" click torque wrench for jobs such as tightening wheel bolt torque to 76 ft.-lb, tightening the engine oil drain plug to 28 ft.-lb, tightening the transaxle drain and fill plugs to 29 ft.-lb, general suspension work, etc.

 

one DIY expense at a time. Right now I have to bring the car to a shop or a Quick Lube since I have no way to lift the car asides from the OEM jack. But as always thanks for the advise.

 

I just finished changing my plugs; thanks to all who have contributed to the knowledge base. I didn't have a spark plug socket, and wound up using a 5/8 deep socket, a magnet to get the old plug out, and a 6" piece of 1/4" ID vinyl tubing to get the new plug in. Slicker'n snot -- much easier, I think, than trying to maneuver the spark plug and socket as a unit in the confined space. Here's a picture (I hope) of one of the old plugs, after 96,053 miles. They all looked about the same, and their gaps were just at or above the high limit.

 

Actually, you meant to type 10 ft-lb, not 10 ft/lb . I saw that wrench, and that's probably the one I would have bought as well. Also never heard of the brand, but the 3 reviewers liked it.

 

I was doing some other maintenance on my 2007 Prius with 120K miles on it and thought I'd look at the spark plugs while I was at it. My plugs don't look as bad as some of the pictures posted here but I'm wondering if someone can tell me whether I should go ahead and replace them.

Thanks.

 

Sure. Go ahead and replace them.

 

If the plugs don't look terrible, then the issue becomes whether the spark plug gap is within spec, 1 to 1.1 mm. Certainly after 120K miles the plugs can be replaced.

 

OK, I will go ahead and replace them once I decode the instructions to unclip the wires from the ignitor on the rightmost spark plug.

Or pay my mechanic $110 to do the replacement!

 

I purchased the NGK IFR5T11 Laser Iridium plugs. Just to double check; should I NOT put anti-sieze on the threads? Someone mentioned that the NGK brand plugs don't take lube.
I haven't done the job yet as I want to do thorough research before diving in.

I'm strongly considering that neiko torque wrench for the plugs.
Patrick, any brand/model recommendations for a torque wrench?

Thanks to everyone for all of their input!

 

Take a look at the document linked in post #35 [this thread]. NGK advises never using anti-seize on their plated plug threads.

 

If you take a look at the wiring harness connector, you will see that there is a lock which holds the connector in place. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to gently lift the lock up, then you can pull the connector off the ignitor.

I don't know that brand. I use the Craftsman line, have the 1/2" and 3/8" wrenches and have been satisfied with them.

I would avoid the very simple beam or needle type of torque wrench.

 

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Thanks for the great directions. I did not want to spend $150 the dealer wanted to charge for changing my plugs. For $35 and 90 minutes of my time (thanks to everybody's great experiences and directions), it was well worth it. I too am not a mechanic. Next time should take less than an hour! My 2008 Prius still runs great with 180K miles (first spark plug change --plugs didn't look bad at all).

--Some things to add, I purchased a magnetic plug socket, which I thought helped alot!
--All plugs came out fairly easily. I did have a clean break with one of the plugs but was able to get it out easily with the magnetic socket and by using tape inside the socket. Came out easy.
--The far right plug is hard to get out--thanks for the great advice.
--I post pics of the old plugs if people want. . .

Thanks everyone!

 

Yea, you could probably just regap the plugs and jeep going... But they are cheap.
If your gonna go to the trouble to get them out, might as well replace new

Starts and idling are smoother with properly gaped plugs.

Alan.. Sent with Tapatalk 2

 

I cheaped out and used Bosch platinum +2 plugs at 96.5k.

The stock plugs were browned like all the others posted. I threw them away and felt better. I was actually glad. Glad to have those nasty-nice person browned plugs in the trash. I knew then I was clean. Why? Because I was clean.

I like knowing there's clean plugs in the engine. Really clean. Clean means a lot to me. And they were store-bought white clean; like freshly washed hands. I hand-tightened the new plugs. No torque. It's not clean. Hand-tight. I never torque anything except the lug-nuts. I have no intention of replacing the PCV filter or draining the x-mission gear oil.

I change the oil once every 15k. The filters? Never. It's still got the stock air filter in it.

I'm gonna run this into the ground.

And when she dies I'm gonna burn it. And I'm gonna write "Thank you Toyota" on it. With my own wine.

And then I'll be clean.

Have a nice day!

 

Sure you weren't a junk yard dog in your other life?


Alan.. Sent with Tapatalk 2

 

Rich12, don't hold back just tell use how u really feel.

 

I get in those moods too, usually at the end of a hard days work....

Alan.. Sent with Tapatalk 2

 

Just got done replacing the plugs in my 2008. I followed the torque specs for the plugs @ 13 ft-lb, but didn't notice the torque spec for the igniter bolt. I can say with certainty that I was over the 82 in-lb spec and tightened it down really tight.

Should I leave it be and wait until next time I change the plugs to correctly torque the igniter bolts or should I go do it now?

 

I would adjust the torque now. If you leave the bolts excessively tight, the valve cover threads might be damaged.

 

I noticed an immediate improvement in acceleration after changing the plugs. MUCH smoother.

Anyone else notice or is it all in my head?

DROID RAZR ? 2