So I figured out how to install my block heater

Got It, Got It and Got It! So sorry for the time lag in read, post, reply etc.

I'm still new here and learning the squiggles and wiggles of board nav!

Thanks again!

Ken

 

I have to say that on 2 week of AM's at moderate temps (mid 40'sF to low 50"s it is hard to know because the cars outside temp gage is thrown off) the car starts off and 137 on start up according to the ScanGage, this is morning after morning. By the time I back up it is 110 to 120 that is a few seconds. This is in a covered closed garage that is opened after the block heater is disconnected and the hood closed. The inverter and the engine feels warm to the touch everywhere before I close the hood. I get in to the car start it open the door and back up. The car then drops to the 110 to 120 range and then rapidly rises. It is in the 130F to 140 in less than 2 min. At the entrance to the main road in 1-2 Min it is at 150+ and is in S4. The first little bit is a up hill to 38 mph after which I am in glide on my new rout. My last tank on this rout is just > 59 mpg on winter gas in moderate temps of the PNW. The coolant dump and rise with the block heater is a clear phenomenon at moderate temps, we shall see how it goes as the temps drop, but we will rarely get the kinds of temps you see in the North, Northeast and Midwest.

 

Hi Evan,

Thank you for your nice report.

Would like to see some pictures showing the difference between with the EBH and without the EBH on consumption screen.

I think the consumption screen shows about 25 MPG at the first 5 min without the EBH, and I would like to see the mileage numbers with the EBH.

Thanks in advance,
Ken@Japan

 

normally I see 5.5 Liters per hundred Km with block heater and 8 per hundred without and an OAT of 9C

 

I'd offer that, only if he kicked in some money to compensate for the decreased mileage :lol:

 

Let me offer my thanks to all under this thread as I too untertook the major arm abrasion task of installing the block heater.

I would like to appologize to my car Dora for all of the colorful names I called her.

I would also like to appologize to my neighbors for my articulate and precise cussing.

My recommendations . . .

1. Squirt the silicone in the hole first. I mistakenly followed the directions, and proceeded to get 99% of the goop all over the engine block. I think what I will do is to purchase some more silicone goop, pull the assembly out slightly, and try to cram as much as I can in the hole sides.

2. Find someone whos arms are not not built like Arnold Schwarzenegger's. I'm not saying mine are as big as his, but it sure is a difficult and contorted fit. Maybe Rubberman might be a good choice. After reading Evan's rant, I thought to myself, how difficult could this be? Well, he's 100% correct. I'm sure coming down from the top is the correct way - but I felt unsure of myself to start dismantling things in order to gain access.

3. Plug the cable in after the heater is in the engine block. The instructions state to plug the cord into the heater first - I'm not so sure of that. I ended up putting the heater in the hole loosely and then plugging it in (the plug angle aligned with the clip so it was easy to line it up.) Finally, I snapped it in place. It seemed to me, as I tried to install the heater with the plug already in, that the overall length was too long and made the angle difficult to insert it (It may have also been a function of slippery goop and the fact that my hand was in a vertical position for 15 minutes!)

The next step:

My next step is to program my house smart system to provide power to the outlet in the garage. My thinking is to possibly tie the outside air temperature probe to the programming, thus dynamically changing the length of time the heater is powered.

 

My recommendations . . .
I'm sure coming down from the top is the correct way - but I felt unsure of myself to start dismantling things in order to gain access.

dreichla, love the sentiment and the articulation of angst and satisfaction you painfully achieved at the end of the 'block heater tunnel'. My day of reckoning is tomorrow...

One question, when you mentioned:

'I'm sure coming down from the top is the correct way - but I felt unsure of myself to start dismantling things in order to gain access."

were you refering to the attempt at installing the block heater from the top of the engine compartment? That's what the tech at ToyotaDepot in Langley BC mentioned to Steve, the parts guy, when I asked for any tips or tricks for the install. Steve didn't mention and I didn't know to ask whether or not "Dismantling Things" were required in order to gain access for the 'top down' approach. But after looking in the engine compartment, OYE, sure seems like "Somethins Got To Go!"

Please advise as I am bringing my Prius in tomorrow to have my tire guy put it up on his lift so that I can hopefully snake the block heater into its tubular resting place.

Thanks,

All the best,

Ken

 

from the top you will have to remove the relay box for sure, and having little arms will help a lot. After finding the hole where it goes into, take the heater and coat with silcone grease put it down back and slide into the hole and clip it in. Then hook up the cable and snake it out to the front of the engine compartment. A long tall skinny kid would be an asset. Mind you most are no where to be seen when needed.
Edited: note that working on the ICE when it's cold is a definate advantage as well

 

Ken1784 what do you pay per kilowatt of electricity in Japan.

 

Thanks Frank:

Is it your thinking that only the relay box needs to be moved out of the way? I believe I remember you put yours in from the bottom, yes? Anybody else do the top down approach and were you successful at it? Also, if you were successful, can you itemize your 'things re/moved".

Please Advise.

Thanks again to all,

Ken

 

remember mine is on the 2k3 but looking at the 2k4 I think if you removed the relay box (unbolted it and set to the side) lay down on the ICE with your head towards the drivers side and slide your whole arm under the cowl and drop your forearm down and then feel for the gap between the ICE and MG1 housing and when you feel the round part that would be the bell housing on a normal engine feel on the back of the block at the firewall side of the ICE and you should find the hole. Cold engine only as the exhaust manifold is right there.

 

Ouch, Right You Are.

I'll see which way seems most feasible having had to drive the car to the lift I'm going to use. Perhaps I'll grab a cup of coffee and let the vehicle lose some heat before 'diving in'.

Thanks again for the review. I'll post my experiences. BTW, I've got an '05.

Ken

 

Frank,

Following is our data...
http://www.tepco.co.jp/e-rates/index-j.html

=== Standard menu ========================
base fee__1,092 yen/month (my case:40A)
__0-120kWh__15.5610 yen/kWh
120-300kWh__20.6430 yen/kWh
300kWh-_____22.1865 yen/kWh

=== Special menu-A =======================
base fee__1,260 yen/month (up to 6KVA)
__0- 90kWh__19.7925 yen/kWh (07:00-23:00)
90-230kWh__26.2500 yen/kWh (07:00-23:00)
230kWh-_____28.1925 yen/kWh (07:00-23:00)
nighttime___ 6.3525 yen/kWh (23:00-07:00)

=== Special menu-B =======================
base fee__1,260 yen/month (up to 6KVA)
daytime(summer)__31.9200 yen/kWh (10:00-17:00)
daytime(other)___26.7225 yen/kWh (10:00-17:00)
morning/evening__21.4200 yen/kWh (07:00-10:00/17:00-23:00)
nighttime________ 6.3525 yen/kWh (23:00-07:00)

Ken@Japan

 

so I take this to mean you pay a base rate of 1092 yen then say if you use and additonal 200Kw you would pay 1867.23 for the first 150Kw and 1651.44 for the next 80Kw. is that correct?
just looking at my bill, charge for 62 days
base charge @.11930 per day
usage charge 1633kwh at.06050 per kwh
then some tax $11.57
total bill $117.77 for 2 months.

so my take is for 816.5Kwh, my one month useage you'd pay
base 1092
1867.32 for the next 120kwh
3715.74for the next 180kwh
11,495.32 for the rest
total 18170.38 yen
converted to CDN$ 182.85
is this correct?

 

Yes.

I think the 300kWh over part is 516.5 X 22.1865 = 11,459.33
Then, total is 18,134.39 yen.
(Just a small correction. )

Ken@Japan

 

Yes, but as I've learned from past experience, sometimes the things I take apart don't exactly go back that way.

I tried to fix my camcorder a while back and, well - let's just say I'm not taking any video anymore.

I stuck a bright colored marker flag up from the bottom to the point where the heater was to be inserted, and then looked down from the top. There's a lot of stuff in the way, but without it, it might be easier. Maybe just a few bolts, cowlings, hoses, etc. are easily removed, but not by this master puzzle builder.

 

Hi Frank:

Manitoba Hydro now charges 5.8 cents per kwh for the first 175 kwh, then 5.6 cents for the remainder. The monthly service charge is $6.50 and there is tax on top of it.

jay