SEGA64 gen4 to gen3 engine swap

Stop leak is a product that "seals" leaking head gaskets, and leaves clots of white gunk all through the system.

 

The important thing about the jiggle pin, or hole left behind when you cut it, it must be up, not down. Otherwise, the purpose of it being there is defeated.

 

The best thing I found for that rear bolt is a combo effect. Unbolt AC compressor and suspend it with a bungie cord, and use a 1/4 nut driver handle that can accept a 1/4 ratchet, and a shallow well socket to fit the bolt.

 

The spot in the t-stat where the jiggle pin is, must point to the sky. If it’s pointed to the ground, then it’s in the wrong position. There is only a small chance that it’s assembled in the housing incorrectly, but it never hurts to double check.

 

Are you getting hear in cabin now?

 

heat*

 

Wow, I ordered my engine from this same reseller!
2018 Engine w 27k for $12xx shipped, and here's how it arrived (green straps were loose and garbage bag wrap was loose, and it was laying just like this on the pallet)


- No Intake or Exhaust manifolds, no Water Pump

I see you were able to get some cash back, so I might as well complain to the seller too- I would have loved to have had the water pump to use and sell off the manifolds!

I'll work on getting started to install this next week

 

It might've occurred when the truck took delivery of it.

 

This is in regards to overheating issue after swap.

From @Ragingfit -

Sergiy Kovalevych10 hours ago
Installed a 2016 prius engine in to 2010 prius. Burned two electric coolant pumps(an impeller stuck melted), because of overheating of the engine. The coolant system was creating air bubbles. The problem was very difficult to figure out. The solution was very simple. The level of an expansion tank hose ,which goes from the connection on the engine head to expansion tank must be only up!!! No sag or dip of the hose. By the correct hose leve the bubbles will freely come out to the coolant expansion tank, will not go back to the engine head or to the cabin heating coil. Driving vehicle around 20000 miles (1 year). Didn't have any problems anymore. Good luck guys.
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For 2010 and 2011, leave the coolant air bleed valve open when filling, till coolant starts coming out. For 2012 onwards (for which the valve has been deleted), disconnecting topmost hose at same location achieves same I think.

I recent changes the coolant using that method to refill, and had no problems. Did a protracted engine run and level never dropped. Some months later still stable and no problems.

 

So did the gen 4 water pump work ? I just bought a new pump for my swap but it only threw a code . The engine came with gen 4 pump and it didn’t work either. The impeller turns fine effortlessly. But won’t turn on . So what gen 4 pump should I buy??

 

For what its worth, I have a Gen 3 water pump running on a Gen 4 engine. I swapped them after I burnt up my Gen 4 water pump. I've driven about a week with no issues so far. Only issue I have is a gurgling noise at start up which I think is air trapped in the line. I will run it in maintenance mode with the reservoir cap off and report back if it went away.