Replacing 3rd Gen Spark Plugs

I've dug the plugs out a couple of times now, just to have a look (totally OCD, I know). The NutzAboutBolts video is invaluable, and illustrates the insane amount of wrenching involved. That removal would be handy for other items too, say to get at the engine block coolant drain bolt (though it's reported precious little coolant comes out). Or for a block heater install?

 

use electric drill for most bolts, it will cut your time in half

 

I ended up using a Craftsman six point deep socket and pressing in a piece of rubber fuel hose that I had. It didn't go in easily but ater the hose finally was seated, it worked great!

 

I need help finding the right socket to remove & replace Denso SC20HR11 spark plugs for 2013 Prius. I looked for hours on Amazon and ebay trying to find the right tool and the opinions are diverse. I've also watched the nuts&bolts video and the tool link from their video isn't available anymore on Amazon. I was searching for a 14mm 6 point socket but I wasn't able to find any reviews pertaining my 2013 3rd gen Prius. Some say I would need a thin wall socket with 6 points but couldn't find any. If anyone knows what is the right socket to remove and replace the spark plugs, please share a link. Will a regular 12 point 14mm 2.5 inches length work? Appreciate your answers and help.

 

While 14 mm is "correct" size, 9/16" will do. I would suggest get a kosher spark plug socket too, with the rubber insert to grip the plug, and in in 6 face, not 12. You'll for sure need a 6" extension too. A 3/8" torque wrench is good, use 12~15 foot pounds: 15* with dry threads, 12 if you use anti-seize. Though dry is probably best.

When installing the new plug, maybe tape the extension to the socket, just in case the socket tries to stay with the plug.

* 15 foot pounds with dry threads in the Repair Manual spec.

 

I am planning to do this a couple of weeks from now.

 

The two things are not comparable... oil carries contaminants and wear byproducts (metal particles) that you can remove from the engine, to prevent THOSE from accelerating wear... by changing the oil. There is no benefit in replacing a non-worn plug.

 

Spark plugs with rubber insert? You guys are filthy rich!! I just apply some cut-up ducktape to the inside of the socket, enough for a tight fit on the plug. That'll hold the plug in place long enough for the job. Just use a small screwdriver to remove the tape afterwards.

 

I changed spark plugs by following instructions found in another thread here on PriusChat slowly over several days 25 to 27 April 2021 for my 2011 Prius (base model). Posting my experience here in case it helps others...

My old factory-original plugs looked GREAT after 150,581 miles! Owner manual says you can go that long in California, so lazy me just left them in because the engine was running fine here in Pennsylvania using economy 87 octane fuel. My plugs looked just like those in the last 2 photos of the above procedure. Gaps on old plugs ranged 1.05mm to 1.1mm due to visible "little mountains" on the ground electrode. Maybe material builds-up there as center electrode wears down? (That's my guess.)

My new plugs were NGK (4912) ILKAR7B11 Laser Iridium Spark Plugs, which came pre-gapped at 1.1mm.

Since my passenger side (No. 1 ?) sparkplug was not coming out as nice as the rest, I followed good instructions on how to loosen a stuck spark plug. You can find it on the ricksfreeautorepairadvice website, search for remove-a-stuck-spark-plug.
My successful removal of that one was due to a combination of patience and overnight soaking with PB Blaster (on all 4). For No.1 plug: I used back-and-forth action with the spark plug wrench, more PB Blaster, waited 30 minutes, repeated.

Sprayed brake cleaner down into the cylinders after removal to dissolve the PB Blaster, then quickly used air gun with aquarium hose all the way down to the piston to blow all those chemicals out of the cylinders. Knew it could be messy, so I spread towels over the engine to minimize the mess and keep spray out of the coil connectors.

Torqued the new plugs to 15 ft-lbs (180 in-lbs) WITHOUT anti-seize lube. NGK plugs have plated threads, NGK recommends no lube.

Applied a very thin film of silicone dielectric tune-up lube to the inside of the coil boots with a Q-tip. Coil bolt torque is 7 ft-lbs (84 in-lbs).

I ran the engine for a minute or so after installing new plugs and coils, before re-installing trays and wiper assembly, in case there is trouble and you need to take something out to troubleshoot. For me, all was good, engine ran fine. There were some reports elsewhere on the PriusChat forum about rough idling for the first 20 seconds after installing new plugs while engine computer adjusts to the new plugs. That did not happen for me. As always, YMMV.