Regen Braking should save the mechanical brakes

Sounds like a covert . Mendel has another member in his convent!


iPhone ?

 

On my 2005 Prius, one Toyota dealer wanted me to have something done on my front and rear breaks at around 70,000 miles. I politely declined the offer. I ended up going the next time to another Toyota dealer 10,000 miles later who gave me a write up report and said breaks had plenty of pad and were just fine. I eventually sold this vehicle at 129,000 miles and breaks were working just fine.

 

Brake pads almost always have squealers that make a high-pitched noise when you apply the brakes, and the pads are at minimum thickness. It's a thin metal arm that scrapes on the rotor when the pads get too thin.

Of course, bad thickness isn't the only thing that might need attention. The caliper pistons or pad brackets can get sticky due to corrosion. I expect I'll have to clean and lube them at some point, even though I won't need to replace the pads. Then again, Oregon doesn't salt the roads, so corrosion isn't as much of an issue.

 

I'm at 122k and my brakes are still good. It amazes me.

 

ok, I am at 93k with my 2012 PiP and the Toyota dealer told me I need new brake pads front and rear because they are at 4/32". I took it there mainly because the head unit is dead and they quoted me $1800 for a refurbished head unit, before labor. Crutchfield here I come. Ahh, but back to the brakes. I declined the brake service and then took it to my local mechanic who said, "no the back brakes are at 6/32 and he could only in good conscience replace the front pads, and even then it could go a bit longer". He said "these cars use the front brakes mostly anyway". LESSON 1 - some mechanics will try to get you to do work you don't need, LESSON 2 - I should get smart about how to check the pad thickness myself so I don't get taken, LESSON 3 - I'm sure I've spent a lot of money I didn't need to spend because I'm clueless. LESSON 4 - Youtube has a video for everything, including how to replace your brake pads on the Prius Gen 3!

 

well done!

post 23 is adequate, but regular inspections of all the brake parts is important, along with slide pin lubrication.

sounds like you have a fairly honest mech at least.

 

Have they (or anybody) worked on the rear brakes before?

If the rear brake calipers and pads are reinstalled on the rotor without paying attention to the caliper piston orientation (very easy to do), you WILL have constant drag, accelerated (and grossly bevelled) pad wear. You will also likely get rotor scoring, and a zone on the inside face of the rotor will go rusty, due to lack of contact with the pad.

If those are the symptoms, and this place previously did the rear brakes, I would go after them for screwing it up.

Here's a screen-grab from the attachment:



The shaded areas are raised spokes on the caliper piston. When assembled, the piston must be oriented thus, so the stubby pin on the back of the brake pad is between spokes. It's also good to ensure (with multiple presses of the brake pedal), that everything is solidly seated thus. This prevents the piston from rotating when the parking brake is applied.

If Instead the piston is mis-oriented, or manages to rotate, then it is bearing only on the pin on the brake pad backer plate, causing all the aforementioned symptoms.

 

no worries mendel, that post is over 3 years old.

 

woof...

 

^ But is it a good reminder for folks, especially newbies, anyway.