Recharging the A/C

Patsparks had the correct advice and offered it first. Don't be offended by his straightforward Aussie idioms.

 

I really think that a Toyota dealer is your best bet for this service. Since the air conditioner compressor runs on high voltage AC, the insulation properties of the oil are paramount.

From the 2005 repair manual, p. 55-2:

"NOTICE:​

For the electric inverter compressor, use the NDOIL11.

Electrical insulation performance may decrease significantly

if even a small amount of oil other than NDOIL11
is used (or enters) in the refrigeration cycle,​

causing the DTC to be output.

If other oil is accidentally used and a DTC is output,

collect the compressor oil in the compressor and replace
it with ND-OIL11 to increase the ND-OIL11 ratio​

amount.

Replace the main components (evaporator, condenser,

and compressor) if a large amount of oil other than
ND-OIL1 1 enters the system. Failing to do so may
cause electrical insulation performance to remain​

low, causing the DTC to be output."

 

$90/hour is pretty common for labor rates nowadays.

the oil... you're probably gonna have to just suck it up and buy some.

sorry, it sucks, i know. does that estimate include fixing the leak?

 

they should include the cost of restoring your system to full capacity after fixing a leak. if not, something's fishy.

at least it's a lesson you'll only have to learn once

 

Here is a post I did when I repaired the a/c on my 1993 mazda protege

How to Repair Automotive A/C - Instructables - DIY, How To, tech, ride - Entry

 

Recharging the A/C - correct low side pressure?

A link somewhere on this forum leads to the 2004 Prius factory manual "Preliminary Release (RM1075U) which states (p. 55-13) the system takes 15.9 oz give or take 1.1 oz. It also says to fill until bubbles disappear and from there add 100g (3.53oz) freon. About half way while adding the 100g, the high side pressure will plateau and stop rising. I'm interpreting this to mean the proper way to know is to add the 100g after bubbles disappear.

I'm still trying to figure out if you're allowed to evacuate a Prius AC system using an oil vac pump. Will it contaminate the Prius system?

 

Is there a thread anywhere on this site (hopefully including photos) which would help me make a visual inspection of the A/C components of my 2004 T4?

(It hasn't been blowing cold air for several months now - not that you need a great deal of cold air here in the UK ...)

 

I took the '05 Prius in to get the A/C fixed at 37K ,need a condenser @ $820.0 . Took it in yesterday to get it fixed again @ 105K , need a Suction line? and a Evaporator ? @ 900.00 . I don't know but it sounds like a big rip off to me . Any thoughts on the cost of repairs .

 

Yes, Prius post-warranty repairs are quite expensive especially if you must rely on your local Toyota dealer.

 

Just to comment on the OP's description:

This sounds like normal display in the sight glass. I recollect from shop manuals for previous Hondas we've owned: you should be seeing sporadic bubbles while the compressor is running, then a flurry of bubbles as it shuts down.

He might be making assumptions and applying fixes where there actually is nothing wrong. And: if there is in fact a leak, it would be better to get it fixed properly. I would assume even the new stuff is not that good for the atmosphere.

 

Well this is my first post here.
I did see that there were some people that got a lot of "X thanks in Y threads", so I am pretty hopeful...
So here goes:

I am looking at getting a used/second-hand the Prius compressor. Does any one know the details of these units?
I read that the insulating oil is needed because of high voltage A/C, so there has to be an inverter in there.
1) Is the inverter part of the A/C system or general thing for the motor that drives he wheels.
2) Interested in specs for the compressor... (the volts, amps, and frequency); and any other details that one needs to wire one of these to another car. I hear that they are variable speed, so I am assuming that the speed gets modulated based upon what the temperature of the evaporator section is at.
3) Does anyone know if the compressor and evaporator ( or what ever it is called in a car) is pretty standard... i.e. could I use pretty much any car evaporator assuming that it is cleaned out?

 

Take a look at:

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/Hybrid06.pdf

Otherwise, it is a typical TXV-type system. A small car set of condenser, receiver, expansion valve, and evaporator should just work. If you can get your hands on a Prius-specific condenser and evaporator core, that would be better, to know how much oil (ND-11 or equiv) and refrigerant to use. Don't bother trying to pull other Prius components to control it, as the A/C amplifier uses sensor inputs to send power requests over the CAN bus to the HV ECU, which then sends power from the inverter to the compressor. It is variable speed, so you could probably control it with a 3 phase Variac. Nominal voltage is 201.6VAC. Know where that comes from? It is the nominal voltage of the HV battery, just have to flip the DC to AC. That to me implies that the voltage can go higher or lower, probably quite a bit lower in the steady state. If I remember correctly, power draw is of order 1 kW. Good luck.

 

Seilerts - thanks!
My plan is to get the whole of the Prius system.
Compressor evaporator and condenser.
The get hoses to fit it up.
Will probably set it up on the bench and work out a controller for it. DC-AC voltage using a 4 position switch (off, low, med, and high).

More below in red

Thanks again - this is helpful!

 

I don't know if it is frequency or voltage, but I do know that it is not the same bus as the drive motors. It is in a separate part of the inverter. You'll have to tell us the whole story when you figure it out

 

I guess I will need the male and female connector where the power cable goes to the motor and then measure the voltage and frequency in-situ.

Now to sort out where I get the connectors...
Either a bad/used compressor and power cable and cannibalise them for connectors.

 

I bought the nd-11 oil at napa for $9.95 3 oz. I put that in and I put 134a in to
35 lbs and stoped, ran air on max cold. You don't need any certification on
your own stuff.