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Questions about cleaning and waxing the Prius Prime

Discussion in 'Prime Main Forum (2017-2022)' started by GKL, Jun 25, 2020.

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  1. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    Here's a thread with links to a detailing page on ToyotaNation.

    Detailing Your Vehicle | PriusChat

    @route246 pretty much covered it so I have nothing more to add lol.

    I claybar/wax twice a year. I should look into the spray wax for the in-between washes.
     
  2. PT Guy

    PT Guy Senior Member

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    There are 3 basic categories of finishes for car paint:
    Wax. Real wax. Great look, short life.
    Polymer sealant. Very good look, fairly long life. Examples: https://procarreviews.com/best-car-sealant/
    Semi-permanent clear coat, also called ceramic or nano finish. Example: Q² Innovative Ceramic Coatings Collection - Gyeon Quartz

    I've got the Gyeon Q2 MOHS product on my cars, and it's great. It's a 1 to 2 year finish, hard and very shiny/slick.

    Spray "wax" gives a short lived shiny finish. Polish smooths the surface, doesn't protect it. All-in-one products have an abrasive polish and chemical "wax" that is OK if the car needs the abrasive polish.

    Any slick, shiny finish is great for shedding dirt, especially winter slop.
     
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  3. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    OK, this is probably waaaay too much detail on the subject of detailing a car for my brain. So, are wax and sealant the same thing or different things? Seems like spray wax is for a temporary shine not intended for a long protection. That means, spray wax is to be used in between twice a year wax or in the case of ceramic finish in between two years? Now, in that in-between period, am I suppose to wash the car with soap or is it not a good idea to wash with soap? Oh, and for the wax, sealant, or ceramic whatever the finish used, do they all need to be buffed with a rotary tool?

    Oh, well, I think I am just going to wash it with my new power washer and spray the wax I just picked up and call it done. I know some of you might object, but even if my car gets mirror polished by a professional detailer, I know my Magnetic Gray PRIME will be golden yellow by next day from the pollen anyway.:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
     
  4. route246

    route246 Member

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    Regarding the difference, I'm a bit of a cynic and would be willing to posit that very little is different and that it is about marketing more than anything else. Most publish safety data sheets like this: https://www.griotsgarage.com/text/safetydatasheet/Spray-On%20Wax%20SDS%206%20Oct%2016.pdf

    Some patent filings are available. OK, you asked. There are many citations via hyperlink in these patents. My favorite ones are from David (Vahid) Ghodoussi, CEO of Optimum Polymer Technologies. Here is one of his patents: US6685765B1 - Water based protectant containing UV absorbers - Google Patents

    There are hundreds of car wax and UV absorber patents. Most of these products are formulated the same with the only variance being dyes, fragrances and amount of chemicals. Think Coca Cola vs all other colas. It is a recipe based industry. The best ones offer durability AND ease of use. Shine and gloss are really over-rated. For me, I only ask if it beads after n weeks.

    There are a lot of terms used with detailing products, especially coatings and waxes. Ceramic basically means inorganic (non-carbon based) while carnauba waxes are organic and extracted from the wax of a palm tree grown in Brazil. You might see SiO/SiO2 (Silicon dioxide) which is basicall sand or glass but I doubt wax would sell if it touted sand or glass so they said ceramic or SiO. Marketing is what it is.

    The philosophy on autogeek.net is to find products you like and use them. Pretty simple idea. I have so many products that I've tried it fills up shelves in my garage. The common theme for most of mine is durability and ease of use. If I have to expend too much elbow grease then I move on and find something better. Every detailer has his or her own kit they like to work from. BTW, I don't do ceramic coatings on paint because there is no way to fix them without stripping and starting over. Waxes and sealants can be reapplied and you're good to go. With an expensive ceramic coating you're out of luck if you get swirls or flaws mid-cycle. No way to really repair those swirls with stripping the coating.

    Again, Youtube is your friend. There is no shortage of people touting all kinds of detailing products.
     
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  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I've been mostly using this:

    Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0

    Last time couldn't find it, got their Gold something, seemed similar.
     
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  6. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Oh well, like I said, in our climate, I only have 6 months out of year I can actually work on my car. If I have to be picky about days that is cloudy (no direct sun) but comfortable enough to work outside with water, time becomes even shorter like 2-3 months out of year. If I have to find one favorite out of literally hundreds of car finish products out there, I would be spending most of my waking hours on the "Wax on, Wax off" routine! Hey, Mr. Miyagi, I am no Karate Kid!:cry:

     
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  7. GKL

    GKL Active Member

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    Wow, thanks for all the replies, don't have time right now to read them, but will catch up lat
    I've used McGuires in the past, still have some around, somehow I'm stuck on the idea that paste wax has to be better than liquid wax, it might not be, but it just seems that way.

    Wow, thanks for the detailed info !!!!

    Glad to hear there is no need for concern about waxing over sensors !

    I've never used cleaning clay before, not saying that I might not eventually try it, but does it make a really big noticeable difference ?

    Our car is brand new so I would think if I did try clay there is no hurry, maybe wait about 6 months and clay twice a year ?

    While I likely won't get super obsessive about cleaning every week, I still would like to keep it clean and shining really good like with how the rain beads up on the surface.

    Now even though you say liquid wax has improved greatly, does paste wax still have the edge as far as better results

    Okay, so clay really does make a difference, but once a year should be plenty ?

    (I wonder what difference clay might make with our old 1999 Astro van, the white paint is kinda chalky and the clear-coat is peeling off, we kept the van just to occasionally haul big items that won't fit in a car)

    We get the yellow pollen at times around here too, hopefully our new car canopies I put up will help some.

    Thanks for all the detailed info, interesting idea about the sensors, I think I need to remember where all the sensors are at and maybe try to avoid them to be on the safe side, though some say it's not a concern and they may be right but being a new Prime owner I sometimes tend to err on the side of caution :LOL:

    Good point !!!!
     
    #27 GKL, Jun 26, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 26, 2020
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  8. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    I object. I object very much :LOL:

    My understanding is that a sealant is an additive layer on which the wax is applied on top (so the wax is the top layer). My sealant product (Mother’s sealant and glaze) is used to deepen the shine. Now some synthetic (polymer) based solutions will use the word sealant to differentiate their product from natural wax so you’ll have to read the product label.

    For me, I see spray wax as a “top off” in between waxes to prolong the protective properties. Liquid wax is the stuff I’d use for longer term protection (but again, natural stuff only lasts 1-2 months tops. So even though I wax twice a year, there are months in between that aren’t covered. I use touchless car wash that has a wax foam to bridge the time gap). Polymer based ones last longer since they’re synthetic so the water will bead for longer on the paint. Me, I use the paste wax. (That tin has lasted me 20 years and 4 different cars)

    Also, I cringe at the use of power washing. That’ll embed dirt into the paint (yes I’m aware that touchless car washes use high powered jets so it’s the same thing but that’s the reason why I claybar).

    And don’t use a sponge, use a hand mitt (preferably microfibre or similar material that can shed dirt easily when rinsed in the bucket).

    And wash your car regularly (but according to your local laws. I know some areas have water restrictions). A waxed car is easier to wash and dry as dirt is repelled. Alternatively you could consider a California duster.

    Depends. To the average owner, probably not. But to car enthusiasts, absolutely. I find it’s also paint-dependent. The silver and silver-beige metallic finishes seem to have a small effect compared to the blues and reds that Toyota makes. It’ll definitely make a difference on white because it’ll get rid of the black specks.

    The claybar removes things like metallic shavings (railway tracks or other road work), asphalt (peanut butter works for this too), remnant bird or tree sap and bug juice. Basically anything that car wash soap can’t remove. You’ll see it on the claybar. The car’s paint will also become glass smooth and ready for waxing.
     
    #28 Tideland Prius, Jun 26, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2020
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  9. Munpot42

    Munpot42 Senior Member

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    If the car is in a garage every night, waxing once a year should be ok, if it is not garaged, wax it two or three times a year.
     
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  10. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    Yeah, last year, I picked up microfiber mitt and a Grit Guard grate for a bucket for rinsing dart off for two buckets washing from Chemical Guys recommended by @The Critic. Still, our climate allows washing on my driveway only between mid-May to mid-Nov, if I stretch it. But the comfortable temperature for the outside hand wash is really only from Jun to Sep. I stopped going to automatic car wash during winter after so many reporting filtered and recirculated salty water used at a car wash would do more harm than good for getting rid of road salt. Thus, my car, unfortunately, stays unwashed for a good part of the year from Oct to May while parked outside every day.:cry:

    Screenshot 2020-06-26 at 11.32.44 PM.png
     
    #30 Salamander_King, Jun 27, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2020
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  11. route246

    route246 Member

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    If you're in New England then you need to over-prep for rough winters. It is brutal on your paint. If I lived there I would rely on Collinite 476s paste wax before the winter hits. In the winter the most important part of the car are the vertical surfaces. It is just the opposite in the summer where you want to protect your paint from UV. If you get the sides, front and back protected with 476s you pretty much can't do any better than that. If you do have a mid-winter respite you can do a quick wash and spray wax touch-up but that's about it.
     
  12. GKL

    GKL Active Member

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    Our Prime is Blue Magnetism color.

    No garage, but we now keep it parked under a canopy to protect it from the sun.
     
  13. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    This? Super Doublecoat Last Step Paste Car Wax | Collinite Since 1936

    OK, I will try to pick it up before the winter change over time, usually mid-Nov. Our mid-winter respite means a day temperature gets to 32F. Any use of water outside if not completely dried before sunset, which is around 4 pm in Dec, it will be frozen overnight.
     
  14. DIY gen3

    DIY gen3 Junior Member

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    I think the manual for my 2020LE specifically says not to use Windex on the inside of the rear window.
     
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  15. GKL

    GKL Active Member

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    Thanks for sharing that, I did an online search to see any results for not using Windex and found this other result:

    Cleaning the inside of the rear window and the rear quarter windows

    • Do not use glass cleaner to clean the rear window and the rear quarter windows, as this may cause damage to the rear window defogger heater wires or antenna. Use a cloth dampened with lukewarm water to gently wipe the windows clean. Wipe the windows in strokes running parallel to the heater wires or antenna.
    • Be careful not to scratch or damage the heater wires or antenna.
    (the above is from a page about the Toyota Sienna)
     
  16. phlack

    phlack Junior Member

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    One problem I've always had with my cars is that I get too many paint dings or slight scratches. I know everyone got them (and my service plan that I was suckered into buying supposedly will help with some of that).

    But I think part of it is that I'm just too lazy to wax the car. And I can't get my teenager to wax it for me :).

    So I'm thinking of signing up for a monthly wash club at Home | Mysite near me. Or even if I don't, i'll occasionally run my car through.
    But I did see someone on here not recommend these types of automatic wax jobs.
    Do others agree that it isn't good, or do you all think it's ok?
    (I gave the link in case it says something important...it says it uses carnauba wax)

    I just got my Prime, so I want to keep it nice and free of scratches!
    Thanks
     
  17. GKL

    GKL Active Member

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    Some automatic car wash/waxes MIGHT be okay but personally I would not trust them with my new car.

    Since a good paste wax might only need done about 2 or 3 times a year I'd look at waxing my car as a free exercise program instead of as a chore, .......wax-on, wax-off :LOL:
     
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  18. route246

    route246 Member

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    476s is good stuff. It is what I use. Durability, easy-on, easy-off in full sun is among the best out there.
     
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  19. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    I've had my PRIME for almost 5 mo now at 1581miles, but I have not washed my car yet. I decided to use Optimum Opti-Seal first before waxing... but have not had chance to do it.
     
  20. PT Guy

    PT Guy Senior Member

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    That's going to get sun-baked dog nose snuffle marks off the glass? I don't think so. Spray-Way glass cleaner is my favorite product. As always, be careful of the heater wires.