Prius Speaker Replacement Guide by ~sparky~

~Sparky~:

I too really value your pdf for installing the rear speakers. I hope you wont' mind a couple of extra questions on this topic:

1) Did you also produce a separate guide for the front speaker replacement? (I know that a lot of posts were lost a few months back when the server crashed.) If not, were there any pointers you recall that were tricky for taking apart the front door panels etc.?

2) Why did you choose to mount the speaker crossovers using duct tape attached to the plastic covering the door, rather than hot gluing them to the inside of the door panel (or otherwise placing them inside the door)? It seems that would be neater and easier (but I don't know much about this kind of thing.)

3) In some of your other posts you mention how to remove the separate tweeters at the front mounted near the doorposts. Did you upgrade these, and if so which replacement tweeters did you choose - something else from Infinity?

4) Are/were you powering all these replacement speakers (excluding subwoofer) just using the Toyota standard head unit that came with your car?

Any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. I was hoping for my auto broker to find me a 2006 Package #5, but all he could come up with was a Package #4 without the JBL "upgrade". With your suggestions and instructions, I hope to be able to make my new Prius sound better than the JBL for a lot less money.

Thanks

 

I am told that I need to add an amp if I want to replace my factory door speakers with the infinity 6.5's. It appears that you (sparky) did not add amps. How's the sound? Did you consider the polks? (i have package3, 05)

 

I went to my local Car Toys store which sells exactly those speakers and asked them about the need to add an amplifier. The salesman said that he thought it would be fine without an amp. He suggested upgrading the speakers first, listening to the results, and only then considering adding an amplifier if you weren't satisfied with the sound. That sounded like a good way to go to me. They will charge you the same whether you add an amp at the same time or add it later (they told me.)

 

I already have the amps from old systems...just wondering how the sound is without taking the trouble to install....sounds like sparky has heard this in his car. I have the basslink installed as well...

 

I installed the Infinity reference 6010cs and 6012i without the amp. It sounds perfectly fine with lots of power. Of course, I don't normally play music very loud.

 

I assume you put the 6010cs in the front...any trouble installing the tweeter in the factory hole or placing the crossover in the door. It appears that the shallow mounts are not required for the Prius. You have the non JBL 4 ohm package I also assume. Thanks

 

I used hot glue to attach the tweeters. The hole is perfectly sized, but the Infinity tweeter is much ticker, so it doesn't "click" into the clip. You don't need shallow mounts if you don't set the speaker too far back. I sticked the crossover right beside the speaker and behind the door panel with double sided tapes. And yes, I have the non JBL package.

 

thejq:

Can you please be more specific as to exactly how you removed the stock tweeter enclosure on your front doors?

Sorry to be so dense on this, but I just went out to my car and tried to pull one off, and I just about broke the darn thing without getting it off. Are there pins that need to be pulled out first (and if so, where are they)? Does the door panel need to be removed first? What exactly is the trick to doing this without breaking the plastic tweeter housing? (I read your posting elsewhere on this and I still don't understand.)

One more question please! Did you need to buy wire connectors or an additional length of wire to be able to hook up the Infinity crossovers to both the new woofers and the new tweeters?

 

I agree the tweeter can be a PITA to pull out, and if not done properly, can be damaged easily. The bottom clip is made of plastic and is easy to pull out, but the top one has a metal spring clip that fits tightly in place. I managed to pull it off with lots of force. A few things you can try if you think the force may break the clip. 1. pull the tweeter half way out so you can see the top metal clip. Spray some WD40 on it before pull with more force. 2. use a thin nose plier to grab the metal clip and pull. 3. Try pulling out the other side first, so you can see that the clip looks like so you know where to grab. In my case, one side came out really easy (don't ask me why).

Also the tweeter needs to be removed before the door panel.

Yes, I did use lots of wire to route from the tweeter plug to the crossover and back mainly because I didn't want to cut any OEM wiring. One day when I sell the car, I will probably reinstall the OEM tweeter/speaker and keep my Infinity. I didn't buy any adapters, because first I don't know where to get them, second, it's probably too expensive for my taste. I simply twisted the exposed cooper and pushed it into the OEM plug and hot glued/tape them together. I know this way may not provide the best electrical contact, but since I don't plan on running a 1000W amp, it will more than suffice.

Let me know if you have more questions.

 

After reading this post, I researched, and purchased, a pair of 60.7's and a pair of 63.7's. Both have a sensitivity of 95dB, which is VERY good, and has to be MUCH better than the factory speakers. With such a high efficiency, I doubt I'm going to need an amplifier either. I'm used to speakers with only a 91-92db SPL, so this is even better, twice as loud.

 

thejq

The "hot glue" deal sounds a little difficult to control. Is this a permanent?

Thanks

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(~sparky~ @ Jun 12 2005, 04:52 PM) [snapback]97823[/snapback]</div>

What about replacing tweeters, or is that pretty simple when you take off the door panal??

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DanH @ Jun 17 2005, 04:22 PM) [snapback]99429[/snapback]</div>

whoa whoa whoa, you got that, based on the uF of that cap, using some fancy math mumbo jumbo...

i must ask, so that i may know, how did you determine that!!

4o (math goes here) 3.9? uF = ">10Khz"

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TheParadox @ Jun 11 2006, 09:10 PM) [snapback]269749[/snapback]</div>

Check out this link....it should answer your questions.
http://www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter1.html

 

Hi - zenon9 here

I ould like to know if you used dynamat xtreme speaker kit or
dynamat xtreme door kit with your install project.

Thanks

 

Same product only you get more of it with the door kit. The door kit would be the way to go unless you want to do the whole door skin inside and outside, in which case you might want to splurge and buy the bulk kit.

I did inside and outside the door as much as I could. I used leftover sheets from my xtreme bulk kit.

 

Another option:
RAAMaudio - Quality and Value in Automotive Sound Deadening

I bought a roll of RAAMmat BXT, ensolite and the spray and did both the inside (inner wall and door face) of all four doors with plenty to spare. Spent many hours reading reviews to make sure I wasn't putting junk in there. Great product, worked like a charm.

Weirdo

 

Hi All,

This Alpine set, from Crutchfield, look like a good option for up front: Alpine SPX-13REF Type-X REF Series 5-1/4" component speaker system at Crutchfield.com - but I can't determine the best match for a pair of 2-ways to go in the rear doors. Looking at Alpine's website they don't have "SPX" 2-ways, only component. Would their SPS line be fine? Like Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. - SPS-500 for example? Anyone know if these include some sort of onboard crossover?

Thanks,
Don