So ,if I understand what you meant, it indicates that the 8 amp selection is active no matter the VAC applied to the car (120 or240) and if I use a public charge station i will have to change the current setting to max to charge faster....it will not happen otherwise.
No, I think @vvillovv is just saying if the charger current is limited to 8 Amp, which I don't think is the case for an L2 EVES, then it will take approximately twice as long to complete the charge. Just wait for someone with L2 EVSE to comment on this. It is very easily testable at home. And I am almost sure that the L2 current is not affected by the 8A current limit setting on the car. EDIT: I was wrong on this. See Jerry's testing result below. The 8A limit applies to both L1 (120V) and L2 (240v).
I was about to say that I was pretty sure the 8A limit applied regardless of the voltage, but decided that "NPOIDH." So I verified it. Now I'm well beyond pretty sure. Here ya go! First at the MAX setting on 240V (actually, since my electricity runs a little over 240, the current is a little under 16 or 8 amps): Next at the 8A setting at 240V:
Thanks Jerry. Wow, I was totally wrong on this one then. It does limit the current to 8A regardless of what EVSE (L1 or L2) and voltage (120v or 240v) you use. Here you go. The test result by Jerry is clear. If you have your car set to the 8A limit and want to use the public L2 charger at a higher current, then you will have to change the current setting to MAX to take advantage of the faster-charging capability. Learn a new thing every day.
I am gratefull for all your support and taking the time to experiment Today I turn 70 so this is my birthday present Regards,to every one implicated in this question and providing a precise answer
Since English is not my mother tongue could you please explain NPOIDH ......i wonder what it means. Thanks
Sorry. The "N" wasn't supposed to be there. POIDH is an acronym for "pictures or it didn't happen." The phrase is pretty old, but I think the acronym is pretty new.
Ah AH now i get the picture .... again looking at the pictures i noticed that at 8amps or max amp setting , the device estimates under the ENERGY label : 22kW/h so i conclude that it computes power being delivered over time requested by the load witch is the traction battery needs..... very fancy piece of equipement.
The meter is very simple and cheap. About $20 US, as I recall. That number is simply the kWh I have used charging the car since the last time I reset the meter. Kilowatt hours is a measure of energy. Kilowatts are a measure of power. So, if it gave the car 3 kilowatts for 3 hours, that would be 9 kWh. In the case of that meter reading, it shows that, since the last reset, the car took 22 kWh, which is 3.7 kW over a period of almost six hours. If I reset the meter every time I get gas, I know how much electricity I bought and how much gas I bought to cover the distance of one tank. That makes it simple to calculate my cost per mile.
I find technology quite amazing .....this must be why I bought a Prius Prime and love driving in EV mode, and when my wife takes the car , she just drives it This keeps me Zen
For an OEM L1 EVSE-connected to regular 120v outlet, I use a P3's Kill-a-Watt EZ meter to measure and record the kWh used for each charging session. I now have a complete record of ~5 years of charging data on three different year models (2017 PP Premium, 2020 PP LE, and current 2021 PP Ltd).
I would not use it on outside wall outlets that are subject to weather elements. Unless you can build some type of weatherproof cover around the outlet so that the unit does not get wet, it would be unsafe. I charge my pp outside on the driveway unsheltered, but the 120v outlet is inside of a garage (but is now being used as a barn) where it is protected from rain and snow.
Close , But No Cigar........ Thanks , only outside outlet avalaible , and not contemplating building shelter around it