Plastic shavings on oil dipstick

I think you’re probably ok but I would change out the filter again in about 500 miles, inspect the filter and see if anything suspicious in the filter media. It’s cheap insurance.

 

One more thing: When you DO change the oil, drain it through a paint filter so you can inspect it.

 

FWIW I've often noticed a bit of buzz under moderate acceleration. Not always, but when it's happening it's consistent. Push a little more or less and it goes away. Seems to be coming from right side of engine bay.

 

Wasn't that due to the clip holding the air intake tube vibrating in the mounting hole in the frame? There are three 10mm bolts, but also a push in clip as well.

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Without having a sound bite of the noise, I’m going to guess that maybe the catalytic converter heat shield is resonating from being broken at a mounting point. This can happen at a pretty specific frequency.

 

Yes I remember something about that.

 

I remember a feller here tighten the T section of where the radiator hose was braced to run under to the intake manifold, it was rattling.

 

"What should I do next?"

Clean it out. Here is a link to a YouTube video on how to go about doing that...

 

That’s why people put oil recovery cans on their Vehicles. This is a common issue with GDI and Atkinson cycle engines. While you are at it you should also clean the EGR system if you haven’t already done so. See YouTube for instructions.

 

I have two of those in line - works perfect /
(& no, I don't use the breather)

Hot Oil Catch Reservoir Breather Can Tank Filter Cylinder Aluminum Engine Chrome | eBay

 

Remove it, clean it, pay special attention to the EGR passages. There's one per port, they're about 1/4" ID.

That throttle body is UGLY, probably never been cleaned.

Clean the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor too. It's bolted on, just to the right and below throttle body. I've used CRC MAF (Manifold Air Flow) Sensor Cleaner, best to stick with something very clean like that. Both the MAF and MAP sensor run over $200 if damaged, so be careful.

FWIW, maybe you have already, but it's not necessary to pull the coolant lines off the throttle body. They have enough slack they can be left connected.

Oh, I'm not alone...

Yeah I think that's a good idea if you can fit them, especially with a can that's middling efficiency. If you can is catching 50%, going from one to two, your catch rate should theoretically go up to 75%? I think.

 

I would be interested in seeing how much oil the occ has after replacing the valve guid seals.
If the rings were worn, I think you would see a lot of blue smoke out the back and fouling plugs.

 

To me, it looks like black gasket sealant that came from possible sloppy workman/robot-ship during the engine manufacture process. It happens.

 

Yes, anything can go bad at anytime. It's not very likely though.
What noise are you talking about? I thought you had found it with the hose clamp on the converter cover.

If you have a long screwdriver, or thin pipe, you can place it on the water pump and to your ear and listen.
Does it only make noise when the engine is running? I believe the water pump will run after the engine stops
if you have the heater on, but I am NOT certain of that.

Are you running the a/c also? Just make sure it's turned off. If the sound is still there, you know it's not the compressor.
If the water pump runs with the heater open, and the engine stops and the noise is still there, you found it.
If it runs, and it doesn't make noise, could be the oil pump.
The propeller for the water pump may be broken and that's the noise.

All this is if I am understanding you correctly.