Planing CanView and BMS+ conversion with lithium

Like I said it does not matter if relay 4 is still active because the ready signal shutsdown immediately when you press the power button to shutdown the Prius.

If you use the ready signal together with the Canview relay 4 then you are good to go and then it would not matter how much time you set for the Canview to power down. Because you did not do this it most likely caused your OEM relay to weld. And if you do not use the ready signal and then what happens a long time down the track you forget and change the Canview power down time to 8 or 16 seconds. You may weld another OEM relay.

You really need to use the ready signal. The other advantage is if you get a serious DTC the Prius will shutdown your ready signal and thus disconnect your lithium battery pack. I have seen this happen to me when the Prius shut itself down due to the Hybrid ECU seeing too much current difference between what the battery ECU was reporting and what was being used by the Inverter.

 

acording to peef info the ready signal that you call it is the 12 volt going to the relays of the oem battery pack. so its not the ready signal active after the oem relays contact but at the same time

so when you use that signal the ev200 will contact at the same moment as the HV oem relays will.
IF in any case the canview relay4 is still active
will there not still be some arcing maybe?

i think in al the people doing this i am the only one that is just doing stuff to fast :_) not taking time and starting up and down again to test test test

 

Refer to this post

http://priuschat.com/forums/prius-p...ew-bms-conversion-lithium-72.html#post1563387

I am getting tired of repeating myself. I do not think that other PC users wants this to go on further. Anyhow now you seem to think that the problem is with the Canbus or the Lilliput or Canview cables. Loose wires or a loose plug. You can check that the pins are well inserted inside the Canview plug and the wires are still connected to each pin.

 

i have the same
i was also getting tired of repeating it but for some reason i can not get it clear to you.
your mixing post from me about this up this is about the relay welding not the red traingle.

the delay on relay 4 of the canview only happens at first startup of the canview not when its already on and when you have it shutdown in like 8 seconds during those 8 seconds relay 4 is still active when you prius is shutdown when you start your prius again whitin those 8 seconds relay 4 is still active and so the ev200 will activate as soon as you have a 12 volt on the "ready signal" green wire and so these will contact at the same time!

i dont think al lot of poeple will shutdown and at the same time start the prius again.
and maybe also the HV relays and ev200 contact at the same time is good enough because the hv relays will contact ms before the ev200 ( if you have a 12 volt interface relay to you canview relay port 4 this will dealy it miliseconds )

this is the last i have to say about it.
cant get it any clearer.
so lets just stop this.


i will put a delayed relay on the 12 volt HV oem relay signal that you call ready signal and my ev200 will only contact 2 seconds after the oem hv relays are contacted.
there will never be any problem and as you point out if there is any prius HV trouble the "ready signal" wil be gone and so also the ev200 will disconnect ( thankyou for that did not think about it )
that a nice situation!

 

Would'nt it be easier for you to use the ready signal available inside the front dashboard as it is more accesible to connect it to your Canview relay 4. I assume that your Canview box is located in the front of your Prius. Mine is located under the drivers seat. I use the ready signal inside the front dash board as described by Eric.

 

yes i will use the 12volt signal on the green wire like peef's post in the topic you made a link to
read below ( please read the BOLD text )

 

Technically it is not the ready signal according to pEEF but it is the closest hard wire signal that you can get to the actual Ready signal on the Canbus, nevertheless a lot of people call it the ready signal anyway or some people call it the 12v ready signal which seperates it from the ready signal on the CAnbus. If you want to use a time delay relay then that is fine. I am sure that Norm would probably be using the ready signal on the canbus to energise the Canview relay 4. So far I have not had any problems with the OEM relays and I am not using a time delay relay. I have not read anything about any of the BMSplus users using a time delay relay, you might be the first.

My main reason for using the 12V ready signal is in case the Canview relay 4 is welded closed you are still protected by the 12V ready signal.

Anyhow have you fixed this DTC light flashing yet? The DTC flashing may be due to a completely different problem.

 

well i did a testdrive today of 154km and did 3,4 liter per 100km or almost 1 liter on 30km
i started with a almost full battery pack and during these hours ( i did stop just for like 15 min for a break ) i did not have ANY problem al worked fine

the only thing thats is new is that i placed the BMS+ inside the cargo space where before it was inbetween the oem battery and my A123 box next to the wire that switched the ev200's

so maybe it still was interference? its my best bed!

 

and also a picture of the cellogs after this drive
a bit diif off 221mv ( high to lowist ) but i geuss that ok being almost empty
during driving its more in the range of 5 to 7 mv

 

May be it's a little to soon to ask, but anyway; How are behaving the A123 cells? Have you encounter any problems?

 

well i see that at 26+ celcius the stable voltage is higher then at lets say 16 Celsius
to me it seems that at 25-35 ( not seen higher the 36 ) the voltage is the highest and maybe the optimum cell temp?
`
i do see that these cells even depleted gain me my mpg because i think these cell except more regen energy instead of heat with the oem battery pack normally

i did see some cell ( but i am back from 72 to 70 NOw ) drop to 2 volts where others where still at 3 volts

i do top balance at 3,699 volts and it seems to work OK

and even with al these cell not being the same when running they all drop to the same 3,3 volts with only 5-7 mv diff
thats nice to see.

these cells are realy stable until now.

i think i am going to keep the cellogs connected for tonight... 5maAmps per cell = 0,005 x 3,3? = X x 70 cells would be 1,155 watts per hour? correct? total for al 9 cellogs.

 

here a picture of the time delay module
i just installed it today and it works fine ( did not yet drive just from standstill )
you can see how small it is ( finger )
to the right there is the small 12 volt 10Amps relay that i am using to switch every thing
only down side is these things use 0,9 watts what i think is a lot

i also finisch the cellog pin1 disconnect using 9 of these relays so i have 8,2 watts of energy lost during driving and charging to keep the cellogs activated.
other side is that during standstill and not charging or driving i only use 500uAmps instead of 20mAmps per cellogs in standby energy.
also the price just a bit over 1 euro per relay is a UP side ;-)

so i can confirm that the H16 pin2 is the signal that will provide 12 volt in the case of activating the HV relays/ or as a ready signal.

i have the delay set for 5 sec.

 

some posts have gone
well i wonder if you guys have the same noise when connecting the ev200's ( when you have those )
here is a video

i think its just the amps rush ( i do charge higher then 3,5 )

first time high pitch then second almost gone and last one no more ;-)

 

My contactor does not make any noise except when it closes and opens when I power up or shutdown or when I press the PHEV/ORIG button on the Canview. Each time it only clicks once. No high pitch noise. The contactor clicking like that is not good. My PHEV kit does not sound anything like that, it just clicks once no matter how high the Inrush current is. Any DTC? It sounds terrible.

 

Today I installed a small 12v battery charger so the auxiliary battery is charged at the same time as the PHEV kits are being charged. Read how pEEF was doing this. It makes sense. I have some extras that slowly bleed the 12 battery overnight. Since you have to charge the PHEV kits then why not do the 12v battery too. I have thought of using a 240vdc to 12vdc converter but they are a bit pricey.

 

i have a ctek 5.0 smart charger connected during charging and also at other times
this i really recomment

am at 256 volts when i have fully charged the cells up to 3,699 ( cutoff for mee with the 3,7 bleeding boards )
so my voltage will be higher i think then you al have at 3,5 vlts right?

no DTC at all.

what do you mean by the clicking sound ? it sounds good to me you first hear the prius relays and after that 5 sec or so the ev200 contact
only that high pitch sound......mine also only clicks one's so dont now what you mean ( during the viddeo i started the prius 3 times!

 

I guess I must have been hearing the clicking of the OEM relays. My EV200 makes a lot louder click. So I could not tell the difference between the EV200 contractor click and the OEM relays click on your video. It is the high pitch sound that is not normal.
My cells charge until they reach about 3.6 volts. But about an hour or so later they should go down to about a resting voltage of about 3.35v. The inrush current should only take about a fraction of a second.

 

Ok
Interesting Mine cells are 1 day after still at above 3.5 and 3.6 volts when i do top balance..
After i connect they al drop to 3.3+

-Htc Tapatalk still at

 

Your charger should be setup to have an end voltage of 3.65v when your cells are balanced. If you are balancing all your cells to 3.8v with a small current you may be overcharging your cells. 3.8v is supposed to be the HVC - high voltage cutoff only to stop charging if your cells are out of balance, not to end the charge when balanced.

My cells are setup to have a HVC of 3.60 volts. My charger is setup with a charge end voltage of about 3.45v. The difference in voltage between my end voltage of 3.45v and and your end voltage of 3.65v is very little in terms of SoC. I decided to set my MiniBMS on a safer lower voltage. If you have a look at a charge curve of a Lifepo4 cell showing SoC or AH versus cell volts you will see what I mean. Have a look at some Lifepo4 charge curves by googling.

 

HVC is not at 3,8 its at 3,72 and balance to 3,699 volts

i know what you mean but maybe you remember i found these bleeding boards that start at 3,699 volts with 100mApms and 300 mAmps at 3,8 or so
i am using these for the cheaper balance on the top then buying or building a lot more expensif mini bms or alike
was it now you that was thinkgin those bleeding boards where nice?

there is one thing i noticed and that that i have 9 relays now that cut the pin 1 min of the cellogs to cutdown on amps drawn..
after i am using this i see a lot more inbalance between the cells after 1 day of standing still and charger after a drive
it seems that the current drawfrom the cells in that mode is not the same on al the pins?!