Planing CanView and BMS+ conversion with lithium

nice find!

well i did not mod the charger end voltage yet
mean focus was on getting the battery pack ready again so i can drive

at this point the charged starts its normal charge and when one of the cells is at 3,72 volts the cellogs shutdown the charged and the bleeding boards will bleed of to 3,699 volts
at the point where the voltage is below 3,72 the charger is started again

its a plain simple way but now i can have the cellogs control the charged at the end where the battery pack is full.

this last situation only takes about 50 watt in 1 hour so thats nothing ( from the house plug measured so real power use )

i am planning on putting a small 12 volt relay inside the TC charger
this controlling the end voltage to standard setting ( to top balance ) or the lower end voltage where the charger will stop charging at XXX volts


i did a drive today 16 km and here is the result.

i also add my first pictures of the battery pack in the pack of the car hope i make people happy with that

 

Mine varies between 0.05 and 0.09 ohms. Never seen it go any higher than 0.09 ohms.

 

ok another day of EVing.
well i see 0,05 and 0,011 today
so somewhere a little more resistance.
maybe higher i have to keep my eye on the road ;-)
optimum watt per km i did 115 watt per km today.
yesterday i did 94? watt per km if i am not mistaken.

i do drive with 70 cells now!!!
seems to work better.

i have a problem that the ice start at even when in EV mode.
i never got that back in 2008 with the 3 OEM packs
i think this is because the OEM battery back then was already preheated from the charging and now the OEM is cold at 16 celsius. ( even when ice is warmed up )
it seems that when the oem is warmer 24 celsius i can accelerate without the ice starting
so maybe i connect my zivan charger to just for the oem battery pack.. not sure....

 

Same here, went back to 70 cells for some time now. 72 cells was just too much voltage.

 

what i dont get is when you drive with the bms + and its set to end voltage 210 volts it started dropping the soc 15 volts abobe your setting so 210 wil make 225 volts

this is to soon

buth when you set the endvoltage to 200 it will start at 215 volts

or 205 it wil start dropping at 220 volts

any case the lower set end voltage will always be reached and 205 volts or even 210 volts is to low for the A123 cells 210 volts would mean just 3 volts per cell and at this point those cells drop like a brick in voltage..

i would say a smaller range woudl be better like ~211 end voltage and start dropping soc spoofing no sooner then 216 volts because these cell have a steady voltage over the normal A123 soc operation.

 

got the relay 4 from canview 4+ attached to a small 12 volt relay to switch the 2 ev200 contactors today so i dont need to do it manually anymore YEHAAAA

hybrid interfaces canview 4 with BMS, Calcars contactor based system switching the EV200 relays - YouTube

 

i have a strange situation
wondering if you guys have the same

when i am driving sometimes as soon i let the gas pedal go or press the brake ( not when i pressure the gas pedal ) i get a red triangle but only for 1 sec ( even less ) flickering one and off.
then the ICE starts to go into compression mode and i feel i have friction brakes
this only happens when i am in PHEV mode not in org mode.
i also see that this one second the CCL is down to 0 and then go;s up to 125 again al in 1 split second.

and its not the voltage because it not only happend at 231 volts ( oem battery internal voltage ) but also at 224 volts

i was thinking some RF disturbance to t he bms+ wire but in ORG mode i have no problem also a broken wire i would have the same problem in ORG mode.

so i am not sure what is happening here... any idears?
already reloaded the firmware

 

No, never had red trinagle during driving.

Is it only when pressing the brake pedal ?

What was bms+ end_voltage ?
Are you sure that your ev200 contactor was permanently powered ?
May be a led+resistor on the coil that you can see could help.

If the lithium is not connected you could have engine quickly in compression mode.

 

A modified CCL of 0 amps will cause the Prius to cancel regen braking and do compression mode (friction brakes) instead which explains your description of what happens when you let go of the accelerator pedal or press the brake pedal which normally makes the Prius do regen braking.

Like Planetaire says it may be that your Lithium battery pack is dropping in and out and confusing your BMSplus to give a modified CCL of 0amps and then 125 amps instantly. I cannot think of any reason as to what would cause the modified CCL to change dramatically. Normally the modified CCL is changed according to OEM battery temperature and SoC based on battery voltage.

 

i made 2 videos
i also see ( did not see it before but i see it on the video ) that the DCL is also dropping to zero and that the CCL stayed at 112 and second after that 125 again
the ev200 contactors make a loud noise when contacted and when breaking again so i can here if anything is happening there.
but they stay connected it seems!

end voltage was 208

and yes only when getting of the gas pedal or breaking.
i do not have this red triangle when accelerating also the CCL and DCL stay at max.

it happend after like almost 20km of ev driving
i did notive that the voltage stayed up higher then normal
normally it would drop below 229 volts when driving but this time it stayed above that and long times at 230 volts.
it was a lot hotter and it also seems that when the cells are more hot like 30celsius the voltage is also higher?!

intermediate red triangle VIDEO0046.mp4 - YouTube

intermediate red triangle VIDEO0047.mp4 - YouTube

 

Your Canview shows a internal resistance of 0.31 ohms? Check to see if there is a DTC code on the DTC screen page. Clear past DTC codes then cause code to happen again. The DTC code number may help to figure out what is happening. What is your 12Vdc auxiliary battery voltage as shown on your Canview when you get these DTC lights. A low aux battery voltage can give funny DTCs.

The Canview relay cannot drive the EV200 directly. The EV200 draws more current than the Canview relay is rated for. Need to use a interface relay. Not sure if you have done this.

 

i switched to org mode just before to see if i also got the problem
in org mode no problem and thats Wy its higher to short time for the canview to recalculate

edit
i did not get any DTC set that i can read with canview
when i go to the DTC screen there are no DTC

at one point i did get a VSC warning that stayed on i did clear that one but still no DTC number...

 

What is strange is that you have this problem only in phev mode.
If not I would check bms+ connector. May be a bad contact.
Can bus would be sometimes open (without 120 ohms) may be this could explain red triangle flashing.
Braking would move the plug just a little ?

What was the last mod you done before this problem append ?

Do you have a log of your 70 cells ? Is it possible that one become bad ?

 

wel last mod was that yesterday i connected the relay 4 of the canview to auto switch the ev200 contactors from the canview
i did drive almost 16km before the trouble started to yes i am thinking about a wire problem but where
YES i put it in org mode and there where no problems.. test it again tomorrow

i made a wire so i can connect the ev200 myselfs and not use the canview for it and see what happens when i connect then without the canview connected...
but thats for tomorrow!

i have 9 celllogs that did not beep and they all seem fine when i stop and look at then also the voltage stays nice where it suposed to be...if a cell would fail i wouls see a drop in voltage!

 

Because this problem append after connecting a wire on canview, then it can be your wire added but also it can be the can wire on canview that is not well plugged.
Canview send pid. So if there is a bad contact, strange things goes on the can bus.

Do you drive the ev200 directly with the canview relay 4 ?

 

nope a small 10amps capable 12volt DC relay is inbetween
but i can here the ev200 contactors so if these would disconnect or something like that i would be able to hear it!

the canview cable is connected correctly

i was also thinking about RF interference onto the bms+ canbus wire and replaced the wire and bms+ to a different location but no go..

but know its bed time for me ;-) tomorrow is a new day!

what i will do is

-connect the ev200 manualy and directly so without the canview
and diconnecth the canview relay cable to see what happens..

-check the 12 volt wires for lose connections.

-when the error happens disconnecth the canview compleetly and drive with the bms+ only and see if the canview is doing it ( wire or softrware? )

--have the canview in PHEV but the manual direct connect ev200 open so i only drive with the oem pack to see if then the error is gone.

 

Something to consider is your 12VDC power source. Is it capable to handle all your 12V load at the same time?. These 2 new relays may be an excessive load; I would reinforce the main power lead to all this accessories.
And my last variable, one of the relays is arcing inside and making temporary connections, dropping the A123's..........
As planetaire suggested, install an LED with a drop resistor in the closed switch output and the energize power leads to assure proper operation with out flickering.

 

i hope this is not the case.
when i was manually connecting the ev200 i did not have this problem before. it happend when i conneted the canview relays 4 but only after a longer drive....

 

new day new possibilities

i notice now that when i drive of with a A123 battery temp of 19 celsius the voltage drops to 228 volts where yesterday i got 30 celsius of cells temp and got 230 volts

i am not directly connected the ev200 and it seems to work..
i did see a 125 to 120 amps drop on the ccl for 1 sec but thats it for now.
charging at the moment and do a 2e testdrive this morning.

edit
o... i have the 2 x EV200 low power coil those only need 1,7 watt so dont think thats the problem

 

I was reading the Kilivack EV-200 specifications and I want you to notice this
A single EV-200 has
Inrush Current (Max.) 3.8A ( at time of make (contact))
Holding Current (Avg.) 0.13A@12V
Inrush Time (Max.) 130ms 130ms 130ms
All of this x2. So, if you are switching on this 2 relays the power source an time of make should handle at least 7amps. The 3.4 Watts (or 250mA) is only the sustain while on.