Planing CanView and BMS+ conversion with lithium

at the moment i dont now i did not look at that and have the batery caase out of the car so try and finisch it.
i hope that i can place it back soon.. but not before next week i think.

i am closing the housing right now and still have to place the EV200 contactors in a housing and do the same for t he 72 bleeding boards and 9 celllogs with al the 73 wires.

i am going to place them in a box next to the battery housing with 2 x 36 pol centronics plugs so i can connect and disconnect them.

inside the box i wil place the relays to for the charger shutoff

all of this i did not yet have time to do yet.. when thats finisched and the battery pack under the floor.... well then... then... omg then its time for a holiday ;-)

maybe i can do a temp connect a again before that and then i can do some more tests and give you the value

 

do you guys use the relays of the canview( for those using canview to connect the add pack ) to control the ev200 contactors or what your using or do you first control a relay and with that control the contactors? because the canview got reedrelays and what about arc etc.

 

I'm using one relay to fire-up the OEM batteries blower at High Speed.

 

My Canview has 6 relays.

Canview relay 4 is dedicated for add-on packs. So I used relay 4 to switch a 12v relay to switch my 200amp contactor. The Canview relay is not rated high enough amps to control the 200amps contactor directly.

R1 - dedicated for EV mode.
R2 - Enginer kit 1
R3 - not used
R4 - Lithium pack - dedicated for add-on packs.
R5 - control HV battery cooling fan modification.
R6 - Enginer kit 2

 

o ok.. wel at firsy i would think that would be enough for the canview relays to switch the Ev200 contactors... but reading below i no longer sure.

you dont have to drive a contactor or do you? and if you do.. you control them direct from the canview?

i have the ev200 contactors with the lower power coil for less energy use.

maybe use 1 relay for a shutt off and on of temp hack.


trying to get in contact with norm but no reply for a while?...

 

connecting the canview to ev.. never done this before ( always by hand using the standard EV mode button on EU prius ) and no longer have the pinouts

pin 8 and 15 are EV try? ( and is the EV already shorted to ground or do i still need to connect a ground wire?? EV is just a Prius H14 pin 27 to ground switch.. so maybe canview already internal connected to MIN? its a dedicated relay for EV )

5 and 12 are phev contactors?

of the 15 pin connector for the relays

 

The Australian Prius also comes with factory fitted EV switch. I connected the Canview R1 across the EV button. The pin outs are only needed for USA Prius which does not have a factory fitted EV switch.

 

yes! what i wanted to check is what the pinouts in the canview relay output are
;-)
but i think i am right that pin 8 an 15 on the canview are for the ev try

 

That is correct as shown on Norms website. CAN-view version 4

 

Plug-In
I still have more questions:
First can you take some shots(images) of your wiring set up?
Did you have to get a "liliput" like screen for the BMS plus?
You went with 70 cells like 10Kw and for my vehicle I just thinking 57 cells like 7Kw?
Plus any more photos thanks

 

70 cells or 72 are because of the voltage
you can not go with 56 cells
these are 20ah then you need to buy 15 ah or 10ah x 70-75 units

 

10-15ah is too small, the C rate would be massive (12.5C for the 10ah). I think even the PIS kit with 16ah cells is pushing it - Headway are good but still 7.8C is high.

 

ok did a 2e test today
45 km and o.8 l/100km
then one cell dropt to 2.6 and lowist others where still at 2.8

so what happend here....
at end charge before drive cell where within 10mv diff

 

edit wrong post

 

ACTUALLY not sure what you are trying to state. I have seen 76 cell count (PIS) 76 cells 40ah. Plug-in went with 72 cells I thinks. I am not sure why you have issue with (57)LifePo4 40ah cell

 

All cells are serialy connected.

If you use less then, say, 69 cells, voltage will be too low and it will be impossible to connect these cells directly on the nimh. If you do it, you will have a huge current and nimh will send energy to lithium. Then lithium will be overcharged and will be destroyed.

When paralleling lithium and nimh, you need that the voltage of the two battery be very close. Voltage is usualy between 220-230v dc.

So if you want 7kWh, use 15Ah and connect them two by two, you will have 30Ah and 70 to 72 cells x 2 = 140 to 144 15Ah cells.

This is called 70s2p

 

Okay so you are using your MFD for the BMS plus viewing. My understanding for 2007 Prius you can not use MFD and must go with alt plan.
thanks

 

I understand about the serially connected sort of. So let me ask this differently. We are all aware of limited space in rear trunk area of Prius . If some kits are 4kw how are they doing this and matching voltage from lithuim to nimh. I am thinking LifePo4 prismatic cell pack with high(energy density)(16ah,20ah,40ah,60ah,80ah,or 100ahcells). However, total cells, weight, size and fitment are just as important.(for me) The tradeoff (for me) would be that I must go with either 4kw pack or 10kw pack. I do not want a 10kw pack for these reasons additional weight, adding coil springs modification for additional weight, increased cost, and somewhat reduce interstate MPG performance.

Which ones for a 4kw ??