Planing CanView and BMS+ conversion with lithium

Nice find !!

 

thx

its a pain in the A*s to get 10 ( 1 reserve ) cell-log 8m without having to wait 2 weeks....
and now these are also 14 days at least...

grrrr

do these cell-log 8M ( so not the 8s ) come with the 9 pin connetc cable includid? i now the 8s got a cable but the cheaper 8m?

 

ONE important question
i wanted to use 175 amps andersons connectors but wy not use 50amps?
those are rated for 50 amps continuous... when will it go above that longer then maybe a few secs while braking or from a dead stop or when going downhill then it wil be a bit longer but still!?
get the 50 amps? or just stick at the 175 amps?

 

they can get a little hot to the touch, but in real life.? did you ever really see that happen?? with your plug in set?
planitair also got the 50amps if i am correct.
so lopez is the only one with 175 amps he told me that at 50 amps they can get warm.. but if thats also the case in a plugin like ours? i dont now you and planitair can tell us if in real life you ever felt them hot to the touch

 

In my PHEV set-up I have upgraded to 175 Amp Anderson's connectors since many years now. The original 50 and 75 Amps connectors I had where getting warm after 2 hrs of use.

 

2 hours of charging? i can remember you got a big charger?
or 2 hours of just driving around?

 

thats funny i got a letter from fedex today that i need to pay fedex expenses?.. its 55% of the total customs value.... the dutch tax value of 19% is 0 and the customs admin cost is 10 euro.
but where does this fedex come from? also the letters say
that i get invited to pay this amount? fedex ghost payment they try to pull my leg?


EDIT
anyway i just paid for the 9 cellogs.. got it from total of 3 shops and i can officially say there is no cell-log in the Netherlands anymore thx to me
the RC community is happy with me ;-)

i also almost finished the bleeding boards deal
those only use 30uAmps so 0,000030 amps at 3,5 volts so i can easily keep them connected
i mean thats ~60-70 watts for the 72 of them over 1 year if they stay connected. ;-) 24 hours a day 365 days.

now i only need the charger and some plugs and cabling like the anderson plugs.. still not decided 50 or 175 amps. waiting on planitair experience

again today i did not get where i wanted to be with my battery housing but for what i did today it looks good.

EDIT
also found these pics from a guy from .RU he opent the cells

EDIT
Also found a data sheet for the anderson 50 amps
it can handle 100 amps for 24 seconds or with 6awg wire.

 

2 hs of use, charging doesn't have a demand or stress on the connectors contacts.
Also, make sure that you are reading ratings for DC and not AC.
Try to keep 4 gauge cable to the final interface ( to the OEM battery pack) and would be better, if you do not have the appropriate crimper, to solder all cable/terminal connections.

 

If you are planning on doing a lot of OutOfGas driving (which I do almost on a daily basis) I would go for the 175amp Anderson plugs. You can be drawing a lot more than 50 amps for a lot longer than 24 seconds in OutOfGas mode. You can draw as much as 125 amps. I would not recommend soldering Anderson plugs specially if they are going to get warm. I highly recommend using the correct size crimping tool with a size lug that matches the size cable you are using to do compression fittings. I am an Electrician by trade and this is important as workmanship and using correct parts and tools is essential as 100amps can generate a lot of heat in a bad connection or a hot joint which may develop as a result of using incorrect lug sizes or just bad workmanship. The last thing you want is a hot joint in a Anderson plug which will melt the plastic body and possibly short circuit 230volts worth of battery which can be very disastrous if it is not protected by a fuse. For this reason it is a good idea to place the 100amps fuse so it splits the battery pack in two if there is a short-circuit.

 

not beeing happy with the price i geuss i go for 175 amps
but i am not planning at al to go out of gas mode.
i will crimps and solder and put isolation tape around o yes and glu

 

A crimping tool is not cheap. You may be able to borrow one from a EV club or hire one.

 

last time in 2008 i put it in a bench-tool ( not sure how you call it ) where you can squeese items that you work on. it worked great and used them on my 2 added nimh packs.
beside that i also soldered them and put some glue on the end of the plug between the plug housing and the plastic outer shell of the wire where the wire came out just to be sure if they would come lose.

edit
how is the pot meter and charge current control working?

i ordered my bleeding boards hope to get them next week with the current control those bleed ar 200mApms per cell. to top balance max 3,7 volts.

 

Below is a picture of the crimping tool I used. Also a photo of a 16mm2 crimped lug before and after crimping. There are better crimpers around, some are hydrolic. Soldering the crimped connection before or after crimping will degrade the quality of the joint. Solder has a low melting point and will degrade joint if it melts and cable could come out if pulled on. Compression is all you need.

 

Maybe this weekend. I have got no responce from my Email to Michael Cheung from EVassemble. It is also the after sales service of EVassemble.com that is crap. I will not go through with it if I cannot measure 12volts across the red and green wires (charger plugged in and powered). I only have one 230V charger so I will probably not try it anyway unless I get a responce from Michael.

 

maybe just try the enable and stop function where you put the 12 volt to the enable wire.
that way the charger should shuttof and start again
then you now that part is working
al the manuals also from evcitypower ( the same charger from same factory but other brand name ) give that same option
when you dont have a canbus installed this analog wil have to work.

i think i wil get my charger from germany and evcitypower
i am also waiting long for him to send a email and germany wil have a faster delivery.

one cellog is send off today so ONE i wil have tomorrow
and i got a 8S with the logging fro hobbyking.. lets see how long that one wil take.

also looking for the JSH-XH 8s 9pn wire for the celllogs but al from china on ebay ;-( takes a long time to get here.

 

What I am worried about is that if my charger is a Chinese clone and not a genuine Elcon charger. So there is a possibility that it may damage the electronics. Because there is no mention of current control in the Elcon charger manual on the EVassemble website from where I purchased the charger from. There is a real risk of wrecking my charger. I know the enable function works because I use it every night when charging. However it may not like getting a lot less than 12v if it was not designed for current control.

Since I am not getting a response from Michael I suspect that there is no current control.

 

the 12 volt is just used for sence voltage
if your that wurried about a china copy then i would not even leave it on during the night.....

but i think i can help you out
already posted something alone that line but here is the direct copy of the email from him

attached to that email where 2 pdf documents that states the analog voltage control.
---

This charger have two version.

First is automatic control model which will work automatically as per max setting request. This is the most convenient type for most of user.

Sencond is CAN Bus communication with BMS version which will work with BMS under the attached terms. You will need to make sure it works with your BMS. It suit for expert user who also make test.
For second model, you can set it via attached terms with BMS communcation.

You will need to make sure your BMS have the proper setting and function so that it will work.

Just choose the version which will suit for your application.

Wish you a nice day and let me know if you need more support

Best regards,
Michael Cheung

----
edit
reading that email 2 times makes me think there is version 1 with no current control and version 2 with bms but still analog current control?!?!?
the company in germany told me that version 1 was with analog amps control and version 2 these are set using the bms command send over teh canbus. ( so wy even have a analog current control when you have canbus board? )

 

I just got a reply from Michael. I do have current control.

Hello John,

▼ ENABLE CONTROL method 3: USING 2-5V CONTROL
a. Control of charging current and stop charging can be controlled by altering the DC voltage on ENABLE (PIN 1). It is possible to control the
the maximum output current from 0% to 100% of the charger maximum capability. During the stop mode (＜1.5V) if the voltage rises above
2V between ENALBE (PIN 1) and GND(PIN2) charger will enter into working mode. In this working mode, when the control voltage is reduced
under 1.5V the charger returns to the stop mode. 2V~5V on ENABLE corresponds linearly to output current from 0% to 100%. For example,
When it is 2V between PIN 1 and PIN 2, maximum output current of the charger is 0; When 3V between them, it is 33% of the maximum
output current; When 4V between them, it’s 66% of it; When above 5V between them, it’s 100%.
b. If control only of the maximum charging current is required, use two resistors (R1, R2) to divide voltage and get a fixed DC voltage to
ENABLE and the charger operates at the corresponding current. Output current is determined by the voltage that divided by resistors. It’s also
possible to use the external relay control or optical-couple control. The output capacity of optical-couple should be more than 10mA and total
value of two resistors should not be less than 1500 Ohms

Best regards,
Michael Cheung

 

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