PHEV mod under way, Bristol, UK.

like you can see in my topic i cleaned the bus bars
and i got greenisch residu to.

i want to put the andersons in but not just yet.
maybe go for the larger 200amps connectors so i have more contact area.


did your blow pack look like my picture's

and what about your new pack?

 

out of production??? your telling me andersons is going to stop compleetly?

in that case i am going to look for a new standard for pack connections.

and you still have 1 add pack thats ok or not? do you want to check the busbar on that one to please to see what kind of corrosion is on that one?

 

its good wheater nikki haha

just do it

 

May I suggest?
Before cutting up the tin of the battery case and removal of the unnecessary parts, remove the cover, Tye-up the wiring with the Anderson and test drive the vehicle for a couple of days or better yet a couple of weeks, before and after each recharge, measure the 28 modules voltages and keep a chart, also take a closer look at the buss copper "links", if any is in its way to green, remove and clean it shiny with an steel brush, I do this to any new pack I assemble, no matter what, and then I spray a mist of clear coat paint all over the modules terminals to protect the metal against the environment.
After a week of deep usage and measurements, if all modules remained at a good percentage in between, continue with the finishing touches of making the battery case pretty and safe.

 

its all about charging the battery's

 

well i think that this green corrosion is just what happens to copper

it are copper bus bars ( if i am correct ) and copper gets green

so i think this is normal on all prius packs in area's where there is more rain.

only way to found out if i am correct is to open the OEM housing and see if there is this green stuff to...

then you now.

i am not opening mine up any time soon so if you want to do it or anyone else?? be my guesst

o and i dont minde that those andersons connectors are going to stop producing
today is the second time i cut open my hand trying to open thise &##$%# connectors.

i am going to look for better one's

 

so you did a drive with the new pack and did no checkup on the cells under load??

nikki nikki.. what did we tell you

you can not resist can you hahahha

was this a drive with the 2 addpacks on top off the oempack?

i am building a housing to but i discovered that the pack stripped down to only the pressure holds still is to big to fit 2 underneed the floor?!?

how are you doing this...

 

i did a load test after full depletion drive
then after full charge
and then 1 day after a full charge again.

so you taking the packs appart... ok.. i did not think about that yet haha

 

I am not going to take the packs apart
just because i want to keep the pressure holds in place.

when the cells heat up there is also some expenstion and ik think its important for the cells to be kept under pressure.

 

about the wire
///////////////////////////////////////from eaa phev------------------

The data on the eaa-phev wiki calls for 8awg wire, based originally on
one of the early CalCars conversions. About 2 weeks ago we were driving
a Prius with a li-ion pack with 8awg wire linking the two packs together
(as well as interconnecting the li-ion cells.) After driving for a
couple minutes drawing > 100 amps, we noticed a burning smell and
immediately pulled over and disconnected the system. The insulation had
actually melted off the 8AWG conductors. This makes sense because they
are only protected by a slow-blow 60A fuse. 8AWG wire is only rated to
about 40A continuous.

While this incident may not be a common occurrence, using 8AWG wire with
a 60A fuse is not safe. The wire must be rated for the same amp
capacity as the fuse is rated for. #6 or higher wire must be used with
a 60A fuse. Ideally, #4 or larger should be used in this case to reduce
resistance and therefor reduce voltage drop, which increases system
efficiency. This problem is much more likely to show up after the
system has been installed for a while, when the ambient temperature is
higher, and particularly when forced stealth mode is used as the average
current draw is higher due to the higher speeds.

I would strongly encourage anyone using 8AWG wire to upgrade to at least
6AWG, particularly if used in conjunction with higher power li-ion
batteries or with use of forced stealth mode.

 

he nikki

a teaser from me