Passenger front rotor/wheel hot. Stuck caliper?

You could also drill out the zerk fitting the thing that broke with a 1/8 drill bit or a little smaller and see if fluid comes out now wedge the screwdriver in and watch the fluid come out every time you drive the screwdriver or pry bar between the pad and the piston then it'll fall off or it'll hit off pretty easily.

 

Wow in Maryland my brother's volt didn't look like any of this.

 

Yeah you can buy most of that stuff anywhere it's usually nothing pretty cheap parts regardless rotors this kind of price range and all they're all made the same and have to be stored the same and what have you and all that should beat right off once you somewhat relieve the pressure in the hydraulic system at least at that wheel then when you do that you should put a nut or something or bolt that banjo bolt to something screw it back into the defunct caliper so basically the fluid stays where it is then when the new caliper gets in you can bolt it right to that banjo bolt open the zerk fitting on the new caliper wait for fluid to run out of it and pretty much it will be bled He won't have to go through the hoo hah full brake bleeding and all that

 

Was the original rubber cap on it when you started?

Those caps are important in the rust belt. The bleeder valve has a passage from the outside right down to the inner end. If the rubber cap isn't on, salt water gets in and the threads get rusted solid from the inner end as well as the outside.

Whenever you replace that caliper, make sure its bleeder valve has the rubber cap. This wouldn't be a bad time to make sure the caps aren't missing on your other three—though if they are, it could be too late to save them now.

If you buy the caliper repair rubber kits from Toyota, the rubber caps are included.

I did once see a guy successfully remove a rusted bleeder by taking the whole caliper to the workbench and hitting it with a torch.

I got one out once with nothing more than a lot of PB B'laster and a whole lot of pounding with a hammer. It didn't even look like a bleeder when I got done with it—the end was pounded all flat.

I guess a bleed valve does look a little bit like a zerk. Zerks are fittings for grease guns though. You can recognize them by the little check ball you can see peeking out of the opening.

 

Close enough just stick a drill but in there make it go righty tighty a few times see if fluid comes out now go to pry in between the brake pad and the rotor with your step screwdriver or little pry bar or lady slipper see the fluid squirting up at you when you do that now smack it with a hammer and it'll fall on your foot if it's in the way.

 

Might not be a bad time to replace that hard line.

 

I think the Toyota pre-bent prefabricated ready-to-go replacement lines are not very expensive. You could also get a roll of nice CuNiFe brake line and a flare tool and go at it (CuNiFe bends easily by hand), but unless the Toyota lines are unavailable I'd probably just go with them. The originals lasted 20 years....

 

Thank you for the update! Many times the OP just disappears without any follow up.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.